A/C clutch replacement.

[rizzjc]

Well, hopefully this will become a "How to" and not a "How not to do", but that remains to be seen.

My AC clutch has been intermittent. I picked up a new clutch, with the plan being to leave the field coil in place, and just replace the pulley and clutch. Easy, right? Not so much. The replacement pulley does not fit over the stock field coil (i.e. giant electro-magnet).

Clutch came off easy. One bolt on the middle, 10mm, and a screwdriver to hold the pulley in place. Bolt isn't very tight, and came right out.

Pulley/bearing sits on the compressor shaft. I had to use a screwdriver carefully against the housing to gently work it off from side to side.

Field coil presses onto the housing. There is a small flange on the housing that the field coil presses on to. Again with the screwdriver, carefully, I worked it out from side to side.

Now the problem. How to press the field coil back on while the compressor is still in the truck and the AC system is still sealed. Not so easy, as it turns out. I have it part way on, using a ball-peen hammer to tap at it. If I did this for about 8 hours, I figure it would eventually seat fully.

Here is where I am:

Not quite there:

I'm hoping to get a 2-jaw puller in there to press it on, using a seal installer over the field coil. It's pretty tight in there, so I'm not optimistic. A friend has some pullers for me to try ....

But, first, I need to go get my credit card and driver's license that I left at the auto parts store.

 

[Tbars4]

...I just recently did this on my 91...I just used the old out clutch part and screw to press it on with...

 

[rizzjc]

Hmmm, really?! 'Cause I'm starting to think that I really backed myself into a corner this time. I guess worst case, I pull the compressor, put it together, and take it to a place to have it evacuated and recharged. I really don't want to have to do that. I was afraid of using the old part because I didn't want to put stress on the compressor, but I guess I have to to get the pulley on anyway. I'll go look at that.

 

[rizzjc]

You're a lifesaver Tbars! I was screwing with that thing for hours, and never would have figured that out.

Here is what I did:
- Installed clutch on shaft, and installed bolt loosely.
- Added spacer between outer clutch and field coil.
- Tightened bolt.

- After getting it as far as I could, I backed out the bolt, and added a second spacer to finish the job.

To install the pulley/bearing, I simply pushed on the left side with my hand, while tapping it with the ball-peen hammer on the right side. I placed a plastic spacer over the pulley so as not to mark it up with the hammer.

Next, I installed the snap ring, placed a little anti-seize on the outer clutch teeth and bolt, added a few washers, and tightened down the bolt. There was some blue stuff on the bolt I removed. I assumed this was some sort of anti-seize, so I did the same with the new bolt.

The torque spec on the bolt is pretty low, so I just snugged it up. There was no way to hold the out clutch in place (that I could see), as it was made differently that the original. The original had 3 "nubs" sticking out out of the front, which I could use for leverage with a screwdriver, when removing the bolt. Not sure how I was supposed to do it on the new one, but hopefully it's tight enough.

Cursed a bit as I installed the serpentine belt by myself, and started it up. Nice cold AC, as always (when it was running).

So, now the problem .....

Now the clutch cycles about every 2 seconds. Before replacing the clutch, once it was on, it stayed on, when the AC was running. I know it should cycle even when off, though not every two seconds, but this behavior seems odd.

 

[rizzjc]

Well, it's 80 degrees here already, so I went out and checked the AC this morning, and it seems to be cycling fine now. At first it cycled on for about 5 seconds, off for 2, with the defrost on. Then as it warmed up, it didn't cycle at all, which I expect. I didn't do it scientifically, per spec in the manual, but it's in the ballpark, and cold. Not sure what was up with the 2 second cycling on and off, but it appears to be good now.

 

[Tbars4]

...I am glad to hear you were able to get that on...That is about the same exact way I did mine...:biggthump

...It sounds like it was just cycling thru the system....If it does start to cycle fast again it is probably a little low on freon but, it sounds like you are good to go...

 

[rizzjc]

Yes, it does seem like I'm good to go for the moment. Hope so. Road trip coming up next week. Thanks again!

 

[rizzjc]

Well, I guess I spoke too soon. I don't know what's going on. Works sometimes. I need to check refrigerant again. The clutch was definitely bad, but I don't know what's going on now.

 

[Tbars4]

...I know you have to have proper spacing on the clutch and sometimes all it takes is swapping out to a different thickness of washer...You should have recieved 3-4 washers with the clutch, in variable thickness's...

...I have a friend with the A/C tools so I won't be much further help...This guide will give you the freon and oil quantities for your A/C...
http://www.napabeltshose.com/news/index.cfm?location_id=1078&id=1517&show=newsitem

 

[rizzjc]

Borrowed some gauges, so I'll check it tonight. I eyeballed the space. Put in a skinny one and a thicker one. Seems to work fine when it works. I'll measure it to spec, just to be sure, but seems like that part is OK.

 

[rizzjc]

Well, checked everything with gauges, and compared the data to the charts from Ford. All is good on the pressure front. It's been working fine most of the time. Sounds like an intermittent sensor somewhere.

 

[ranger7ltr]

What are your high/low side pressures and the ambient temperatures?

Sometimes the low pressure switch can become intermittent and open even though pressures in the system are correct...

You can test it by jumpering the connector on the low pressure switch to see if the system kicks the compressor clutch on...If the low system pressure is over 24 psi[I think] the low side pressure should be closed and complete the circuit...

 

[rizzjc]

Well, I took the readings I got, (high and low pressure, vent and ambient temp) and plotted them on Ford's charts. I'm slightly on the low side, so adding a little won't hurt. Try to bring it up at least mid-way on the charts, and see what happens. Otherwise, I won't worry about it until it causes more problems (i.e. works less).

 

[Tbars4]

...I am lucky as far as that goes...

...I started by vacuuming my system first, and with the help of the chart (post #9) I was able to determine my A/c requires 32 oz. of freon...Not having that info when we did the fill,we put in 24 and it read fine...Now that it has circulated, it is blowing warm and I know I need to add 8 more oz.'s...

 

[rizzjc]

OK, anyone doing this, the manual does not say what to do, but I'd recommend some thread locker on the bolt. I lost it already. Put the old one in, but like an idiot I also put anti-seize on it. That's because there was some blue liquid in the bolt that I removed. The torque spec is really low, and something needs to hold that thing in there. Fortunately the clutch didn't go anywhere. At least it's hot here, so it is running all the time. Now I have to clean out the anti-seize and put some thread locker on there. I also could use a clutch holding tool, but not sure I can find one. The new clutch isn't made so that I can hold it with a screwdriver, like the old one.

 

[samish]

Well, hopefully this will become a "How to" and not a "How not to do", but that remains to be seen.

My AC clutch has been intermittent. I picked up a new clutch, with the plan being to leave the field coil in place, and just replace the pulley and clutch. Easy, right? Not so much. The replacement pulley does not fit over the stock field coil (i.e. giant electro-magnet).

Clutch came off easy. One bolt on the middle, 10mm, and a screwdriver to hold the pulley in place. Bolt isn't very tight, and came right out.

Pulley/bearing sits on the compressor shaft. I had to use a screwdriver carefully against the housing to gently work it off from side to side.

Field coil presses onto the housing. There is a small flange on the housing that the field coil presses on to. Again with the screwdriver, carefully, I worked it out from side to side.

Now the problem. How to press the field coil back on while the compressor is still in the truck and the AC system is still sealed. Not so easy, as it turns out. I have it part way on, using a ball-peen hammer to tap at it. If I did this for about 8 hours, I figure it would eventually seat fully.

Here is where I am:

Not quite there:

I'm hoping to get a 2-jaw puller in there to press it on, using a seal installer over the field coil. It's pretty tight in there, so I'm not optimistic. A friend has some pullers for me to try ....

But, first, I need to go get my credit card and driver's license that I left at the auto parts store.

Hi, I've a 2002 Ford Ranger XLT with AC works intermittently. Sometimes I push the AC and it is on. Sometimes it does nothing. But when it works, it only last 5 to 10 minutes. I opened the hood and notice the clutch doesn't turn. Sometime I use a wooden stick to tap on the clutch. It then turns and AC work. Not all time though.
Do you think if the clutch is the problem? The former owner I bought it told me a clutch relay is bad. I don't even know where is it. Could you please help. THX sam

 

[rizzjc]

Owner's manual should tell you which relay it is. On mine it's right next to the fuel pump relay, in the box under the hood. It could be a LOT of things. My clutch was bad, but it still works intermittently now, and when it DOES cycle, it cycles faster than it should, even though I've checked and charged the system. I'm guessing that it's one of the 3 sensors that needs to be replaced. It works though, and if it stops, I can turn it off for a minute, and turn it back on, and it's fine.

 

[samish]

AC Clutch Replacement

Owner's manual should tell you which relay it is. On mine it's right next to the fuel pump relay, in the box under the hood. It could be a LOT of things. My clutch was bad, but it still works intermittently now, and when it DOES cycle, it cycles faster than it should, even though I've checked and charged the system. I'm guessing that it's one of the 3 sensors that needs to be replaced. It works though, and if it stops, I can turn it off for a minute, and turn it back on, and it's fine.

Thanks very much for your answer.

Is there any way you can take a picture of the relay? And, also my clutch works intermittently. Could it be bad too? How do I know if it is bad? thx

 

[rizzjc]

I swapped the AC and fuel pump relay, since they are both the same. So that's how I tested it. I'm not in town, so can't get a picture, but if you open the hood, and find the fuse box on the driver side, near the firewall and the brake booster, you should be able to locate the relay easily using the guide in your user's manual. When it's NOT working, try touching it with a screwdriver. If the magnet grabs your screwdriver, then it's not the relay - the clutch just isn't engaging.

 

[Tbars4]

...I had recently swapped the A/C relay in my truck and the info was a little confusing to find it..These links might help as the relay is the closest to the front of the truck...

..For a picture of how to get to it...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208097

..And for a diagrahm and info to the relay...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=249098