A/C Completely Discharged, Need Recharging

[duke16]

I had the engine pulled in my Explorer a while back, so the A/C was discharged. What do I need to do to get it recharged? I guess one of those recharge things you pick up at Advanced wouldn't work right? There's going to be no pressure in the A/C system at all. So, will I need to get it to a shop to have it done properly? If so, is there anything I should think about replacing before taking it in?

Thanks

 

[manaen]

was the pump completely removed? if so you will need to flush the lines with AC system flush, and then use a vacuum pump to suck out all the air, and then refill the system with the correct amounts of oil and r134a.

It's funny they drained the system when removing the engine, this did not have to be done. I removed my engine and just tied the pump to the fender to keep it out of the way. Oh, You will probably want to pressure test the AC system to make sure it did not get damaged in the engine replacement process.

 

[duke16]

The pump was off the block, yea (the pump is the thing that's attached to the engine, right?). It was rebuilt.

Well maybe drain isn't the right word, but looking at it, I don't know how they would have pulled the engine out without moving the A/C line... I think it would have been in the way.

 

[manaen]

I just noticed you have a 5.0, I am not familiar with the AC system on the 5.0 models(mine is an SOHC). Either way if it has no pressure you need to
1) visually check the lines and condenser for damage
2) completely disconnect all the lines and flush them with some AC system flush (follow the directions on the can) I use compressed air to blow the flush through the lines, you may want to disassemble the orifice to clean it out
3) pressure test the system
4) using vacuum pump remove all air for the AC system. this is to ensure all the moisture is removed from the lines.
5) refill the system with the required oil and r134a, look at the tag under the hood for filling requirements, I usually put the oil in and then put just enough in to get the pump to cycle just to make sure the flow is good.
6) finish filling the system
6) run the system with both a high and low pressure gauge to make sure the pressures are good and there are no blockages. Let it run for a while on max AC and watch the pressure gauges and pump, put a thermometer in the AC vent to see how it is performing. Your pump should kick in and stay on in max AC if not check your pressures again or their may be a blockage causing a high pressure situation.


Most refill kits only have a gauge for the low pressure port, I highly suggest buying or borrowing a high side gauge, it's the only way you can tell how your system is flowing.

 

[duke16]

Well that sounds a simple enough. After reading through Glacier's recharge thread I figured it was going to be a little to much for me to handle... but maybe not.

Thanks.

 

[manaen]

IT's not too bad, the biggest thing is making sure you clean everything really well, and paying attention to the details. And then having the tools to properly flush and vacuum the cooling system.

 

[ma96782]

I wrote this awhile back.........

If you were planning on doing some AC work, there are few special tools that you’ll need. The recovery systems are usually cost prohibitive for most home DIY guys. As a plan of action, you could have the AC Shop test for leaks and/or recover the refrigerant from your system. Then, you could do the replacement of parts (if any) and recharge the system by yourself.

BTW….the links that I have provided here, are just to help you visualize the part ..you can buy from whomever, you want to.

For AC parts and tools, you could check with major AC Supply Houses like:

http://www.ackits.com/

http://www.acsource.com/

But, I’ve found some pretty good deals at my local Harbor Freight store. If you don’t have one close by, you could always mail order. Watch for their frequent sales. Hint: If there is a catalog (internet) sale, the local store will honor the sale price. Just print the page and take it into the store.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/common/start.do

The dual gauge manifold set is needed for any serious DIY AC work.

Manifold set - at the Harbor Freight site enter part#92649

Vacuum pump (evacuator):

Some folks have used a venturi style evacuator with success. Though, you will need a decent shop compressor to use it (one person commented that he used his with a 30 gallon Craftsmen 6 hp compressor). It works. Just not as easy to use as an electric evacuator pump.

venturi style evacuation - at the Harbor Freight site enter part#92475

The elec. vacuum pumps are available from various mfns at different levels of suction power and prices. Ebay has a lot of them at very good prices. I got one for home use that is factory rated to suck down to the 50 micron level (paid about $125). Anything that will suck down to lower than 200 microns should be good enough.

Elec. Vacuum Pump -
http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...PartNumber=781900&Description=A/C+Vacuum+Pump

***A Manifold Set and Vacuum Pump can usually be purchased as a kit (cheaper than the single prices).

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Smaller Tools:

You will still need the can tap connector that will be used to tap the sealed R-134a can and connect it to the yellow hose.

AC Can Tap - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...er=783012&Description=A/C+Refrigerant+Can+Tap

You’ll likely need a quick detach tool to get those AC lines open and/or disconnected. They can also be used for fuel lines.

quick detach tool - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...cription=A/C+&+Fuel+Line+Quick+Disconnect+Set

Also handy to remove the orifice tube….though, I’ve used a long nose pliers.

Orifice Removal Tool - http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...er=783205&Description=A/C+Orifice+Tube+Puller

If you want to look for leaks yourself, here is a tool that retails at almost $100.

Leak detector - at the Harbor Freight site enter part#92514

Aloha, Mark