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A/C probs, need some input!

basil1

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92 xlt
Ok, A/c quit working so I took it to get serviced, the guy found a leak at one of the valves. He replaced them both, flushed out the r12 and put in the r134, picked it up that evening and it worked fine ($140.00 :eek: ). Then next morning not working again, took it back to him and he found a leak in one of the hoses, had him replace those ($100.00 :mad: ). Two days later worked for 1/2 day then quit, took it back again and now he says its the compressor. It wouldnt kick in, spins freely, jumped it, clutch kicked in but it killed the engine, he says it is building too much pressure and will run $470.00 for parts and labor :fire: . $270 for new, $340.00 for rebuilt (wierd), $100.00 for accumulator and $100.for labor. Did he shaft me or can components fail like that? He says I can replace the compressor and the accumulator myself and he will recharge it for free. He already drained the system. What do I need to look out for? O-rings, seals etc... any tips or advice is appreciated.

thanks in advance!

btw this site is excellent, tons and tons of great information, wish I had found it along time ago.
 
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uh60james

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You should do it yourself, I am about to change out the accumulator and remove the compressor to put in r134 compatible oil. As soon as i find out how to remove these components that is! Not sure if they have Auto Zone in LA but an accumulator is less than $40 and you can get a remanufactured compressor and clutch for about $200.
 

shamaal

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91 Mazda Navajo
Regarding the service you received, there are a lot of variables. The offer of a free evacuation and fillup however, carries some weight in my book with regards to honesty of intent.

To replace accumulator and compressor, see mine and any following replies in the exciting thread titled:
Which components to replace, which to reuse?
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162954

While the system is open replace the orifice ($5). If it is covered in black gunk (black death) it is recommended that the condensor should be replaced. Change the o-rings with green ones rated for R134a.
Feel free to ask questions, this is a friendly forum.
 

basil1

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Thank you for the replies. In searching for parts I was asked if the system way factory or dealer installed, in regards to the accumulator, how can I tell the difference? Also what is used or how do I flush the system, I read about alcohol and commercial flush, what are the steps to flushing? I was told that when the compressor seized that it might of put debris into the system. And one more question, in reading other posts I have seen accumulator and receiver dryer are they the same thing?

Thanks again.

L
 

shamaal

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1. Factory installed. I don't think they have dealer installed A/C since the 70's.

2. I use alcohol, there are commercial flushes. Perhaps someone has a preference for one over the other. For flushing remove the condensor and pour in the alcohol, agitate and drain, the same with the hoses. The evaporator can also be removed or done in place - flushing solvent goes in through the top and comes out the bottom. Use LP air to blow through the system, when the shop evacuates, that will remove any introduced moisture. I believe there are also commercial flushing units that run off LP air, I have no experience with them. WEAR GOGGLES and VENTILATE! Put 2oz of PAG oil in the condensor when through.

3. Yes the compressor may have put crud in system, when you change the orifice, you'll have an idea what, if any damage was done. Any metal shaving should be removed during the flush. If you have 'black death' change the condensor. This stuff melts at high temps, solidifies at ambient temps and cannot be flushed out. If there is no sign of damage, you may not have to flush the system.

4. For our purposes an accumulator and a receiver/drier are the same, also orifice and expansion valve. They are different names for the same functional components used in differing types of A/C systems.
 

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basil1

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Excellent!, thank you!

L
 
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