A/C pully bearing noise

[WaterBrat]

2005 EB 4.6l V8. When I turn on the A/C (which is all the time) I hear a noise that sounds like bad bearings. The A/C compressor was replaced a couple of years ago with an AutoZone reman. This only happens when using an A/C function. Is there any reliable way to determine if is A/C pulley or a different one such as idler or alt? If anything other than A/C I can DIY. I don't have the tools or comfort level to deal with the compressor. So far EXP forum has saved my butt and pocketbook. Hope to hear some good advice.

Thanks in advance

WB....Skipper

 

[swshawaii]

Remove the belt and spin ALL pulleys to check binding. If nothing, start the COLD engine one minute and listen for noises.

 

[Number Twelve]

According to the Shop Manual, Vol 1, Page 412-03A-10 You can replace the clutch and bearing assembly. The pulley has the bearing inside it.

 

[TechGuru]

Thing is the pulley bearing is turning whether the compressor is on or off.

If it only makes the noise with the compressor on then I'm afraid that it is probably the internal compressor bearings.

If you A/C system was not properly flushed (or any of many minor details, I've seen some shops not vacuum the system and leave air/moisture in it) when the compressor was replaced your reman compressor is likely damaged now.

My factory compressor was noisy when I bought my Explorer. A few months later it locked up. I bought a used motorcraft compressor from a salvage yard for $39.53 and since it locked up suddenly from internal failure rather than seized up from lack of oil I skipped the flushing and only added 4oz of oil and put the system under vacuum then added 3 cans of DuPont R134a and it's been cold and quiet ever since.

Do note, I have no idea which compressor your V8 uses. My V6 has the "scoll" compressor.

 

[Number4]

hiccup - double post.

 

[Number4]

I second [MENTION=290940]TechGuru[/MENTION], though it is possible that your clutch bearing only makes noise when the pressure of the clutch is engaged, it's most likely an internal issue.

 

[WaterBrat]

2 garages say internal bearings. 700-900 job. Oh well gotta have A/C. Next question is Rock auto shows different compressor kits, the cheaper being an FS10. What is the difference and can this be used in my 05 4.6l v8?

 

[TechGuru]

2 garages say internal bearings. 700-900 job. Oh well gotta have A/C. Next question is Rock auto shows different compressor kits, the cheaper being an FS10. What is the difference and can this be used in my 05 4.6l v8?

You need to replace with same compressor. I'm assuming you have the scroll?

I replaced my A/C myself for under $100...

$50 salvage yard motorcraft compressor, 3 cans DuPont R134a, 8oz bottle of PAG46 oil is all I needed to buy. Have my own gauges and vacuum pump.

 

[Number Twelve]

PAG46 oil

Thanks. I've been meaning to find out what viscosity of PAG to use.

 

[john cris]

These guys are all over it. Great advise!
No offense intended but an Autozone reman may not have been the best choice. Those parts use cheap bearings. Made in China is not always a good thing. Unfortunately you're in it now. Be willing to spend a bit more and maybe have a shop do the work with a good guarantee
Best of luck,
John

 

[TechGuru]

These guys are all over it. Great advise!
No offense intended but an Autozone reman may not have been the best choice. Those parts use cheap bearings. Made in China is not always a good thing. Unfortunately you're in it now. Be willing to spend a bit more and maybe have a shop do the work with a good guarantee
Best of luck,
John

I thought I would mention the only brand I would trust for a compressor other OEM Motorcraft is 4S (4 Seasons) and with them I would try to find brand new not reman.

The part number for a new scroll type 4S is 78542

Also here is a lot of general a/c information provided by 4S.

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S324ACSystemFlushing.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S303BearingFailures.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S346BreakAwayTorqueandtheSpannerWrench.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S326ChargingwithCans.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S336ClutchCoilDiag.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S328CompresorFailures.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S371CondenserAirFlow.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S362CondenserComparison.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S305LubricationFailures.pdf

http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/FS/4S327WorksintheWinter.pdf

 

[john cris]

Good knowledge!
If you can find an exact motorcraft replacement in a junkyard I would consider it. I love finding stuff out at the local yard. I actually consider that fun. I must be twisted. lol
$50 is a no brainer if the yard will let it go for that. It's a crap shoot though.
John

 

[WaterBrat]

I found a shop that was willing to let me order from RA and still give me a year labor warranty. The kit I got was a 4S with the compressor number being 78588.
Here is what the shop will be billing
evac system 1 hr
replace compressor 1.4 hr
replace accumulator 1.4 hr
replace orifice tube .4 hr
He says he can tell by the tube screen if there was any debris and maybe if shows clean, not replace the tube. Looks like I may get out at closer to the 700$ range. Thanks for the input. If I had guages and a vacuum pump I probably would have tried it myself. Those will be tools maybe for my next list to Santa.
Skipper

 

[Number4]

Vacuum pump and gauges from Harbor Freight are only $150 (combined) pre tax.

Always replace the orifice tube. And if you don't show the system having been flushed, 4S will not warranty the compressor, which means RA won't either.

 

[TechGuru]

Vacuum pump and gauges from Harbor Freight are only $150 (combined) pre tax.

Always replace the orifice tube. And if you don't show the system having been flushed, 4S will not warranty the compressor, which means RA won't either.

Even cheaper if you get the Venturi vacuum but one will need to already have a large shop compressor to use it.

If there is any crap on the orifice screen then the condenser needs to be replaced not just flushed.

Orifice tubes cost at most $2.50.

 

[WaterBrat]

Got my car back from the garage and the bearing sound is gone. He did not charge me the books .8 hrs for replacing the orifice tube. Said that was just to much for the work actually done. Replaced compressor, evaporator, orifice tube. Evac and recharged system.
Costs
$380 labor
$35 for 3.5 lbs freon
$4.95 for pag oil
The only disappointment was when I received the 4 Season compressor I ordered from RA, the box was clearly labeled Made in China. Shame that another great company gives up to greed. Hope I have better luck with this than the AZ reman from China.

Thanks for all the advice.
Skipper

 

[TechGuru]

Replacing the orifice tube is literally a 5 minute job as long as the old one don't break off inside.

Ya that's why I go with salvage yard OEM's if can't buy a new OEM (Motorcraft) one.

I doubt you got your evaporator replaced, that's in the dash, do you mean the condenser or the accumulator?

Freon was overpriced, 3 cans fills it and that is no more than $15 when you buy in bulk. Even less when you buy by the tank like shops do. Also 3.5lbs is 56oz which is what models with separate rear a/c uses. You have the separately controlled rear a/c? The regular system uses 34oz which would be 2.125lbs.

I ordered a "new" Gates water pump from RockAuto for a Mercedes-Benz and even that was made in china.

 

[WaterBrat]

Yes to accumulator and my EB does have rear A/C with comtrols.
Skipper

 

[TechGuru]

my EB does have rear A/C with comtrols.
Skipper

In that case did he replace BOTH orifice tubes?