A/C refrigerant recharge...what type and how much PAG oil? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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A/C refrigerant recharge...what type and how much PAG oil?

SyberTiger

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
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City, State
Orlando
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Limited 4x4 4.6L
I have a 2002 4.6L, no rear a/c system.

I'm looking at the Chilton manual which calls for Motocraft YN-12-C for the PAG oil. Doing a quick search I can't find YN-12-C, only YN-12-D. Is D the replacement for C? Is there a generic PAG oil that can be used in place of the Motorcraft. Looking at THIS CHART is would appear that PAG46 would be used.

Looks like my A/C Manifold Hose Assembly is leaking as noted by the presence of PAG oil right at one of the hose crimps where the high pressure output of the condenser is located. In the picture it's the upper crimp on the right side.

Since my compressor hasn't locked up I was thinking about changing out just the manifold hose assembly and nothing else. Since the compressor hasn't locked or blown-up I'm thinking that a flush of the system is not necessary. How much PAG should I put in the system if I'm not flushing out the old stuff but yet know that some of the PAG has leaked out. The Chilton manual does not show the amount of PAG oil to add. Maybe add 2oz of PAG46 and call it good?

How much refrigerant is needed? The Chilton manual does not show the A/C system capacity.
 



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I just came across THIS CHART that shows the 2002 Explorer without rear A/C requires 34oz of R134a and 9oz of PAG46. But, THIS CHART shows 32oz of refrigerant. And, THIS CHART shows 34oz.
 






You need to inspect the orifice tube. That will tell you most of what you need.

From there, I'd add one oz. of Pag.
 






You need to inspect the orifice tube. That will tell you most of what you need.

From there, I'd add one oz. of Pag.

It's been leaking for over a year....I've topped off the refrigerant twice.

Why inspect the orifice tube? What is it going to tell me? My compressor has not locked up or exploded yet.
 






the orifice tube will tell you if it's close to locking up (look for contaminants clogging up the filter)
there should be a label in the plastic radiator cover showing the belt routing and refrigerant capacity.
 






Here's the deal...

I plan to replace the compressor, just not yet because I'm short on time. I've got to travel for Thanksgiving and just wanted to get the system working (i.e. fix minor leak).

If the compressor doesn't crap itself I was going to change the hoses, accumulator, orifice tube, schrader valves, and possibly the high/low sensors. I would keep the condenser and evaporator but flush them out (probably not easy to flush a condenser). I believe the high pressure side is sitting a bit low which tells me the compressor could be worn. That's very easy to believe because here in Central Florida we probably run the A/C in our vehicles at least 300 days out of the year. With 155K miles and after 15 years it's likely time for a new compressor.

Anything else I'm missing to change out?
 






If you're doing preventative before a compressor quits I would just get a used salvage yard compressor for under $50, add 4oz of PAG46 while no compressor attached (or put it in new compressor) then vac and charge with 3 cans of DuPont Suva R134a.
 






Thanks everyone. I decided to get a new Four Seasons scroll compressor for $100 on eBay. I didn't want to risk picking up a used salvage compressor just to save $50.

The preventive replacement job is being done because I just didn't want to deal being on the road and out of town if/when it locks up. For all I know I've got 2 more years on the current compressor but because I've got a leaking hose for 1+ years and can see the high pressure side is low I'm gonna replace it before I have a problem. I'll be sure to replace the orifice tube too.
 






Thanks everyone. I decided to get a new Four Seasons scroll compressor for $100 on eBay. I didn't want to risk picking up a used salvage compressor just to save $50.

The preventive replacement job is being done because I just didn't want to deal being on the road and out of town if/when it locks up. For all I know I've got 2 more years on the current compressor but because I've got a leaking hose for 1+ years and can see the high pressure side is low I'm gonna replace it before I have a problem. I'll be sure to replace the orifice tube too.

my experience with 4Seasons scroll compressors has not been good lately, I replaced it before it explodes because it's making a lot of noise. I suspect the bearings inside started to wear out... good luck with that...
 






I'll keep and eye on that and let everyone know if it becomes problematic. Thanks for the heads-up.
 






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