A/C removal and belt | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

A/C removal and belt

nismotunedgtr

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 11, 2004
Messages
173
Reaction score
0
City, State
Windham, Maine
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 XLT 250k miles
Hey, myy A/C in my '93 XLT has been shot for a long time.

I'm going to unbolt it at put a smaller belt on it.


My only question is: Advance auto sells two belts, one for A/C and one without A/C.

Will the one for non-A/C work??
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





yes on the 93 4.0L you can simply get the belt for the non ac model and route it without the AC compressor, I ran my 4.0L like that for many years
 






Did you notice any perfomance increase? Or gas mileage?
 






nope not really, but my compressor clutch was free wheeling just fine (worked still)
I removed it to make more room in the engine bay and to reduce the weight just a bit, clean things up really.

You wont notice an improvment unless your AC compressor clutch is dragging currently
 






Hey 410 thanks for that note. I'm gonna yank mine out too, cause it's never used ! What's the story on the gas in the lines, if there is any left? Does someone just empty it out into a recycle container ? Can I do this ?
 






Technically (legally?), you need to bring it to a garage to have the system evacuated before you work on it.

If there is gas in there, it's under pressure, and I'm not aware of a safe way to remove it for a weekend warrior.

Mike
 






Mike: Thanks for that I'll get it done at a garage !
 






Technically (legally?), you need to bring it to a garage to have the system evacuated before you work on it.

If there is gas in there, it's under pressure, and I'm not aware of a safe way to remove it for a weekend warrior.

Mike

Wrong, R12 is illegal to be vented in the air. R134a (which we should all have, unless your truck is older than '93 and wasn't retro-fitted with new schrader valves) is not.

What you do it find the high and low pressure lines from the compressor to the condensor to the firewall. You should find a blue and a red cap. Those are schrader valves, like a tire. Stick something in them to push the valve, and don't breath it in. When it's done you will need a tool from Napa to unlock the A/C lines.

Last but not least, keep your mouth shut about it becasue it's illegal to work/service A/C systems unless you are certified to do so.
 






I said:

"Technically (legally?), you need to bring it to a garage to have the system evacuated before you work on it."

You said:

"Last but not least, keep your mouth shut about it becasue it's illegal to work/service A/C systems unless you are certified to do so."

Potato/ Potato... but how does that make me "WRONG???"
 






No worries guys, I'll get it dumped by an a/c guy, and strip the rest out. Just will be in the way when I do my upper end and injectors when the weather warms up.
Thanks to everyone! I find there is a lot of ways to accompish the same thing, and what I love about this group is the choice is ours, with a ton of input to help us a long the way to making that decision!.
 






Cool, good luck!

I may have been really tired when I wrote that post last night... :confused:

Whether it's legal or not, I have no clue (though I know R12 is an issue).

I think the main point I was trying to make is that I would never attempt to evacuate either type of refrigerant myself, as it has inherent safety issues to the person doing it without the evacuation equipment (pressure and extreme cold come to mind).

I tend to be more brave with some things than others, I guess.

Mike
 






Changed out my AC box

Ok I removed my AC while doing my LIM gasket. here are some pics.
I found a Ranger box in the scrap yard cleaned it up and put it in. Sure is a lot more room in there !
Don't forget there is one nut under the glove box inside the cab, the rest on in the engine bay. I removed the blower motor 1st, makes the job much easier.
 

Attachments

  • AC Unit.jpg
    AC Unit.jpg
    65.1 KB · Views: 154
  • Airbox Location on Firewall.jpg
    Airbox Location on Firewall.jpg
    72.2 KB · Views: 147
  • Airbox to replace A C.jpg
    Airbox to replace A C.jpg
    57.3 KB · Views: 149
  • Airbox underside.jpg
    Airbox underside.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 154
  • New heater Box.jpg
    New heater Box.jpg
    78.8 KB · Views: 145






Vaccum Line

I rigged the vaccum line that used to run from the AC, to run from the fuel rail T connection over to the air box. All done, heater works great, thanks for this thread !
 

Attachments

  • DSC01505.jpg
    DSC01505.jpg
    64 KB · Views: 120






shamal, I couldn't help noticing that the v-shaped washers are missing from your valve covers. They help distribute the load/pressure of the bolt going into the heads. Without them, you might be looking at leaks unless you really gooped on some RTV in place of a gasket.
 






Thanks for the post natenkiki, there were none when I removed the covers. I only used new gaskets, no rtv except for the corners that meet the water jacket, and will keep a eye on things. If they leak, will let you know.
 






That means someone else was in there and didn't re-use those important parts. I did a quick search and I can't find any good pictures aside from this:
mrNoMYC8a-w0qXODepvUpQA.jpg


They're little spacers that spread out the force. The covers are thin steel and easily warped. You can buy aftermarket ones like this:
77474-valve-cover-gaskets-dsc06350-valve-cover-acc.jpg
 






Back
Top