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A Cleaning Plot Twist

ClappTrapp

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March 10, 2014
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer XLT
So the other day I was bored and I decided to clean out my air filter box (still stock with a spectre filter). Naturally, the previous owner of the car never did a thing to it so it was filthy. About 4mm of pure oil and grit all along the bottom of it. After cleaning that, I cleaned the sensor on top of my engine (unsure of the name but picture attached). I've found in the past that cleaning that top sensor off clears up any rough starts or idle issues for about a month. Since it had been about a month, the engine was having trouble starting and took about 9-12 turns before it would start. So after cleaning that off again, I won't to start it, and it started. I left it alone for a few minutes then came back to check it only to find it barely alive at around 250-300 rpm. A quick tap to the gas pedal made it stutter then die. I ended up getting lucky and I got it started and double pedaled home. Fast forward to the next day and it won't even start. It just turns until the engine floods out.
Maybe someone here has experienced a similar issue? If so, what was your resolution. If not, what do you recommend? I know my way around my SUV a bit, but not enough to call myself a pro. Any thoughts?
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Is that an oiled filter? If so get rid of it. You should not have to clean any sensor once a month.

Is the sensor you cleaned the MAF sensor? Your picture doesn't show up. Once you've gotten rid of the oiled filter, clean the sensor again.

Check for engine trouble codes, and check that you don't have any vacuum leaks as a result of pulling the filter box lid out of the way including a loose pipe or torn rubber.
 












that is your idle air control valve. your MAF will be after your air filter, and before your throttle body.
even if your IAC is dirty, it should still start. what happens when you unplug it? or you havent tried yet.
 






Is that an oiled filter? If so get rid of it. You should not have to clean any sensor once a month.

What's wrong with oiled filters? I have been running K&N's in all of my vehicles, the Explorer for over a decade with no issues. They are only a problem if you over-oil them, or oil them and install without letting them sit for a bit to absorb the oil.

The MAF is inside of the intake tube. Don't use any cleaner too aggressive or you can damage it.

What did you clean the IAC with?
 






If you have oil pooling in your filter box and an IAC valve that's so gunked up you need to clean it monthly, then you have a blow-by issue. Have you checked the PCV system, including inspecting all vacuum lines? I used to have a problem with oil residue building up on all vacuum lines and ports. Turned out to be the rubber PCV valve elbow, which looked fine and didn't make any kind of vacuum leak sound, but had enlarged just enough to prevent the PCV system from working well.
 






the problem with oiled filters is that people tend to over oil them and then they get oil on the MAF sensor.

OP, there should never be oil in the air filter box. I have a K&N in one of my trucks. I follow the instructions for cleaning and re-oiling it and I never find any oil in the box. Frankly, I'd just use a quality paper filter once a year and forget about using an oiled filter. With 7 vehicles to maintain, I don't have time to mess with cleaning, drying and re-oiling air filters. Besides, I not convinced that they do anything for you.

The picture you supplied is of your idle air control valve (IAC). If that's what your having to clean once a month you either have excessive blow-by or a bad IAC. You should also clean your MAF sensor (with MAF cleaner) periodically, especially if your using an oiled air filter. Never touch the MAF element with anything.
 






I will get back to you all in a few days an I'm in a different state and have no access to my vehicle.
 






I think your IAC may have worn out to the point where it needs to be replaced.

Naïvely, this summer, I cleaned my IAC valve with carb cleaner and did my best to do a thorough job. I'd been having issues with rough or hunting idle and especially hard starting during the cold of winter. So, my explorer ran fantastic for a few weeks after that first clean, but it soon grew far worse. I'm not certain what happened. One colleague believes the acetone and other solvents in the carb cleaner may have ruined the lubricant or a seal between the valve and the solenoid internal to the valve.

While I did end up replacing the IAC valve with a new motorcraft part, I also cleaned the throttle body's butterfly valve. I noticed that there is a small hole in the valve to, presumably, let a minimum of air through for the engine to use at idle. This hole is rather small and had become noticeably clogged with oil+soot+gunk accumulation from the - I believe - PCV pipe that connects to the intake plenum(is this the right word?) between the air box and the throttle body. Again, I used carb cleaner, but I've since learned that the solvents in carb cleaner can make things worse - I should've used something labeled as safe for coated throttle bodies.

Mine looked like this guy's: imgur.com

Anyways, the point of this is that after cleaning the TB, things improved, but there were still issues. I believe the engine was stalling/sagging because it had too little air and the IAC, despite commanded to open wide, was unable to allow enough air to bypass the TB for the engine breathe properly. I had to drive across michigan to get home, so I wrapped electrical tape around the plastic part of the throttle body where it touches the idle air adjustment screw. (Don't touch or screw in/out that adjustment screw!) I think I used about three or four times around the plastic kept the TB open just enough for the truck not to stall on it's own. After I swapping the IAC valve for a new one, all of my problems disappeared and I was able to remove the tape entirely.

So, short version: I'd clean your TB and replace your IAC.
 






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