A little flex after the locker install | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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A little flex after the locker install

There are a few lifted black STs on here now :D

Nice truck! How much trimming have you done up front to fit the 35's? I need to get the sawzall out again on my day off next week. Did you have your bumper made or make it yourself? Few more pictures of it somewhere? And are you running 35's on 3.73's?!
I'm thinking about having a bumper made but I also like the clean look of the stock front end. I might just have a front hitch made to hide behind the bumper
I'm thinking something like this;
sporttracbumper.jpg

Or this one;
sporttracbumper2.jpg

sporttracbumper3.jpg

sporttracbumper4.jpg
 



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Pink ?!? :scratch:
 






Nice truck! How much trimming have you done up front to fit the 35's? I need to get the sawzall out again on my day off next week. Did you have your bumper made or make it yourself? Few more pictures of it somewhere? And are you running 35's on 3.73's?!
I'm thinking about having a bumper made but I also like the clean look of the stock front end. I might just have a front hitch made to hide behind the bumper

There isn't too much trimming involved. The bottom few inches of the inner fender liners were cut off on the back side and some sheet metal inside the fender well (nothing that can be seen from outside) was trimmed. It still rubs just a little bit if the wheel is turned just right and the suspension is in just the right spot but nothing that I've worried about at all and nothing that chews up tires.

The bumper was actually on the truck when I got it so it wasn't me. Its basically a piece of steel C-channel that has been cut/notched/bent and gusseted to the shape shown and then the hoop added. I can snap some pictures if you want. I agree with a bumper that doesn't mess up the clean front end and that is one reason I like mine so much. It follows the curves of the stock front end and looks very professionally done.

And yes, I've got 35s and 3.73s. It helps that its a stick cause I think an automatic would lug too much. It really does need at least 4.56s but it is more then drivable as is. I even pull trailers regularly (not light either, heavy 5000# trailers :D). 4.56s are coming after the new year when I can afford them. Any offroading requires the use of lowrange. I pretty much don't use 5th gear right now unless I'm on perfectly flat ground or going downhill on the highway doing 75 or 80. It only turns 2000rpm at 70 if I use 5th :confused:
 






Wow, I feel sorry for you driving with that gearing. My Ranger had the 4.0L with a manual, 3.73's and 33's and it was a ***** to tow with. It was "okay" driving around town but every hill was 4th or 3rd gear. Any off roading (like you said) was 4low.
I'm don't even like the auto with 4.10's and 33's, but it's alright and spending $1300 to regear when it isn't all that bad just doesn't seem cool. Money better spent elsewhere, for now anyway.
 






My ST still looks like 35's will rub on the front inner fenders by the doors. And even added the body lift and the coilover shocks. I have at least 8" of lift. Maybe a sawzall is in order to fit them.
 






Sawzall is your friend. :D

I never owned one until I put 35" tires on my truck. Just be careful and wear safety equipment(eye protection) when using one.
 






This "easier" process works if you have the 4" suspensioon lift kit. If the suspension is stock I am not 100% that it works as easy. If I remember correctly before I did my lift, I had to completely remove the knuckle to get the CV out.

Chad

Should work no matter. Pull the end link off the sway bar, jack up the truck by something other than the control arm to get an angle, pull the wheel, undo the axle bolt (1 1/4 inch socket) and pull the axle. Maybe disconnect the tie rod end so rotate the spindle and there will be tons of room.

new guys, if you off road, make sure you can do this on the trail. You need a hammer, a socket for the axle nut, a socket for the tie rod, one for the end link, and a pair of vice grips to hold the end link.

never ever drive at all without a CV shaft unless there is something holding the wheel bearing together or you will have to buy a very expensive wheel bearing. If you have to, hack saw off the end of the cv shaft and bolt it back in there to drive home.
 






PS - You can not drive the truck with one of the CV axles removed. The outer CV axle and nut that tightens it to the hub, hold the hub together. Believe me, I know.

I preferably like to learn from experience:
 

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Ugh, I bet that was a bad day ^^^^
 






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