A4ld Rebuild started

[Chrisman889]

I went ahead and tore into my old transmission today, the one that stopped going forward. I got it apart pretty easy. I just want to make sure I have this right. The first drum I pulled out, after removing the bands is the OD drum right? Then the planetary and sun gear, and then there was another drum with clutch plates. This makes a total of two drum assemblies with clutch plates, I'm assuming one is Direct and OD?.I then removed the center support and the intermediate band and another drum with clutch plates, which were totally fried, no wonder it wouldn't go forward. So this makes 3 total assemblies containing clutch plates correct? I didn't see any problem with the planetaries except a little wear on the intermediate. I also noticed all the thrust washers were in good shape and most of them were torrington bearings. THe OD planetary was welding makes me wonder if it's been rebuilt before. Now I just need a pretty complete kit including bands, friction plates and all the seals and gaskets I need. Lots to chose from on Ebay. Hoping for a little direction here. I also want to redo the governor with a new weight.
What do you think about these plates? Only one plate had friction material left on it.

 

[JK080]

Good to here you got it apart. There are three drums in this tranny and the one that is burnt is the forward drum.

The one behind the pump is called the coast clutch drum, but not to worry, everybody calls it the overdrive drum. Its clutches are used for engine braking, the band around this drum is what is used to get 4th gear, it stops the drum from turning. The next drum behind the center support is the direct drum, its used for 3rd and reverse, its band it used to get 2nd gear. The next drum is the forward drum, its used in all forward ranges. Make sure you check the sealing rings on the end of the drum and check inside the center support where they ride for grooves or damage to the support.

The overdrive planet does have welds on it so I wouldn't be concerned with it, check the bearing surface on the planet where the flat needle bearing rides, it sometimes has pits on the surface from the bearing, if there is wear here also check the overdrive planet hub (where the sprag is), the same bearing will wear it as well. Also check all the planets for worn shims and wobbly gears, the shims are located between the gear and the planetary housing, they are brass.

I would get a "Master" overhaul kit, it should have the steel plates between the clutches along with all the seals and gaskets and clutches. Get both bands and maybe the low band in the bottom of the case as well. I wouldn't worry about the governor weight just make sure the little valve inside is clean and moves freely, along with all the other valves in the valve body. Instead of ordering from Ebay it would be a good idea to talk to someone that sells these parts like Transtar or WIT, the salesman can help make sure you get the right kit.

Check out this thread, he has done a good job on the disassembly of a A4LD, lots of good pics. His failure is the same as yours, no forward.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=389695

 

[Chrisman889]

Well the reason I was wanting the governor is because before it finally quite it was having a hard time shifting out of first into second, or do you think that maybe be related to the burnt clutches?, the governor weight seems to move freely. What about a new torque converter?

Yes, I have been using that thread as a reference it's real good and organized.
This is the kit I think I'm going to go with.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371020416957

 

[BrooklynBay]

Always replace the torque converter, and clean the front cooler before you install the rebuilt transmission. These parts contain fragments which could clog the transmission if they get dislodged.

 

[Chrisman889]

Couple of things I have questions on before I start this, I'm a little worried about the space available between the bell housing and engine to get in there and remove the flywheel from the torque converter, will I need to put a breaker bar on the front of the crank shaft to turn it so I can get to all the bolts? Also is it possible to access the upper bell housing bolts through the opening in the front of the center console inside, if I pull up the carpet? Just really debating whether I should spend another $500 to swap in my rebuilt, or should I attempt it myself. I need it to be a weekend project, I have read stories about this turning into a 2 week project.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Turn the engine with a breaker bar to turn the flexplate & torque converter. You will need long wobble extensions with swivel sockets to get to the top bolts.

 

[Chrisman889]

Are we talking about a pretty good size breaker bar? Also I noticed that there are bolts on both sides, some going towards the front of the engine and others going towards the rear, all are around the bell housing, going to be extremely difficult to get to those one's pointing towards the rear.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The engine turns easily so you don't need a large breaker bar.

 

[Chrisman889]

Let me just ask, in the above picture, those clutch plates are pretty burnt, but would it cause no forward gears at all, I mean no engagement whatsoever? Or should I be looking for another problem?