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A4LD Valve Body Rebuild Diary

Glacier991

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Don the Transgo instructions are copyrighted as of 91. I doubt much has changed. And yes I had dental picks, wooden skewers, small screwdrivers, one with a bent tip JUST for this purpose,and other "rats ass" things. I always fear dental picks because they are metal and sharp. (Doesn't mean I don't use em, just "carefully").

I know what you mean about the value issue. At least you can do your own work! <g>

ps, that was fresh blood on my thumbnail, I had sliced open a pad on one finger trying to get the stuck spool out, didn;t realize I had blood on the nail til I saw the pics.

pps. I have started building A4LD's for folks, and the biggest problem is finding a core (like build one in advance.. so I can drive mine til I need it... etc). A friend I am building this one for in No. CA was told the hottest item out of OLD Explorers is the gearbox.
 



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Aircub

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I don't want to sound stupid but what gearbox for the explorer? T case?
 






Longjohn119

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Good timing on this ... my '91 shows the classic signs of low/reverse servo leakage and I was about to start a thread asking what else I could/should do while I have the pan off ...

Looks like this is it ...

So only one question, do I have to buy a basic overhaul kit (bulkparts.com $38.81) just to get the two new o-rings? It's not that I don't have the $40 bucks, it just goes against my nature to pay 40 bucks for 3 bucks worth of parts I need and then have a bunch of crap left over I'll never use
 






Glacier991

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You can buy JUST the rings from FORD but I think you have to buy a set of 3 of each... Might see if there is a Transtar dealer near you and see if they will sell you the O-rings all by themselves. The larger one has an aftermarket "double lip" version that is recommended. I have not found it yet though, check around and let me know if you do. You will also need to buy the gasket set - it is 2 gaskets and they are not identical ($about 7-8 for the pair). Those are also available separately from most transmission parts houses or the dealer.

If you have a high mileage 91, get the new locknuts and adjust the bands while you are doing this. (couple bucks each). The procedure for band adjustment is shown in the A4LD rebuild diary. More and more I think that is essential on higher mileage vehicles.

And for Aircub, this Valve body is off an A4LD, used behind the 6 cylinder Explorers from 91-94. The T case was the BW 1354. I am going to do a rebuild diary of that later this summer. 95 and later v-6's used the 4R55E, and then the 5R55E, T case got changed along the way too. V-8's had the well respected 4R70W behind them.
If you are a 94, you have the A4LD and the 1354.


Oh, re-reading, maybe Aircub wqas asking WHAT gearbx was the guy referring to. He was referring to the Trannie/t-case combo I think.
 






V8BoatBuilder

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Glacier991

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Thanks Aaron !
 






Glacier991

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Just heard from the guy I built the VB for. He installed it and had this to say:

"...the car seems to run fine without the trouble of before. The shifts feel firm but smoother than I'd thought they might so all is good."
 






CDW6212R

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Good job, let me know when you find a 4WD 2002+ 5R55E to rebuild for me. Regards,
 






Glacier991

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ME find? <g> You find, I'll rebuild.

ps, find one closeby. <lol>
 






CDW6212R

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What special tools do you know of, which are needed to rebuild the A4LD's? I have the AOD seal installers, and the drum piston spring compressor. What are the chances that the piston seals are the same size?

I would hope to find a not high mileage 5R55E, and change the piston seals, frictions and steels. My current 99 valve body is my planned brain for it. I'd change any other solenoids which are likely to wear out soon. Later,
 






Glacier991

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"What are the chances that the piston seals are the same size?"

Not good but I can loan you the set for the 5R55. Other than those and the pump alignment tool, most of the rest you can improvise. PM me when you get to needing tools...I have full factory sets.
 






CDW6212R

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Thanks for the offer Chris, I am quite a ways away from that project yet. Regards,
 












Glacier991

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Valve body removal and installation is covered in greater detail in the "My A4LD Rebuild Diary" in the Useful Threads forum, but it is held in place by a number of bolts of varying lengths. Remove the pan, remove certain linkages and remove those bolts and voila. Valve Body A' la carte.
 






CDW6212R

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Do read about it first though. Have a manual like the ATSG small versions handy, good luck.
 






Longjohn119

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How much tranny fliud is needed after a valve body rebuild?

You obviously lose more than with just a filter change but how much more, a quart, two quarts?
 






CDW6212R

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Basically all of the fluid will drain out, except for about two quarts which will remain in the bottom half of the torque converter. Find the total fill figure, and subtract a couple of quarts. That's the only irritating part of the job. Fluid continously drips on you, while you are removing bolts. Good luck,
 






Longjohn119

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Already have all the bolts loose, I just left 2 in loose and let it drip overnight ...

I was thinking about doing the total flush and fill after I'm done but if only a couple of quarts are left then it's probably pointless ...

Thanx Don ... and thanks again to Glacier whose pictures say a thousand words and make this so much easier
 






CDW6212R

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If there is a plug in the converter, change that fluid also. The valve body is the big deal though, take your time.

When refilling it, add about six quarts before starting. Add one at a time, checking at a point about two from being full. With your foot on the brake, place the shift lever into each gear, pausing for a two or three seconds each time. Check the fluid, look only at the side which is lowest.
If it shows nothing, then add a quart. If it shows anything, then only add 1/2 quart at a time. The level can change very fast with very little added. Run the trans through the gears once more when the level is close. Check the low side of the dipstick carefully again, and again. It should take several minutes to get it right.

Don't drive it until you think it's right. Test drive it, and check the level again. Good luck,
 



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Longjohn119

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Glacier, did you notice when you drilled the separator plate that one of the holes (in your first picture on that part) was already well over either size given in the Transgo instructions?

Was just curious but I think it's probably smaller in the other vehicles (Ranger, Mustang, etc) the A4LD was used in and Ford modified it already for the Explorers ... just a guess though
 






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