About to purchase a 92 - any last minute things I should check? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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About to purchase a 92 - any last minute things I should check?

ddeg10

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Joined
March 14, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Seattle, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2018 Limited Explorer
I found a really well maintained 92 XLT. The owner has 14 years worth of maintenance records and it drives great. The transmission fluid is the color it should be, the oil was right on the mark and changed every 3K, brakes are good, 4x4 works.... everything seems to be in great working order. No weird noises or vibrations.

I am supposed to go pick it up this weekend and just want to make sure there's not something major I've missed. Any last minute suggestions?

Thanks.
 



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These trucks are pretty stout all the way around. The transmission is the weakest link in the first generation explorer. If it’s an Automatic, just realize what you are getting yourself into. The Automatic transmission on these trucks are somewhat of a disappointment, they break like every other year, and are quite expensive to replace. The 5-speed transmission on the other hand is better off. It too isn’t the strongest thing Ford has ever put out, but it’s defiantly more reliable in the long run.

That’s the main thing I’d suggest when buying an older explorer. Like you said the fluid is a good color, so it’s probably fine.

The engine you don’t have much to worry about. If it ticks, that’s normal. The pushrods/rocker arms are the most prone to wear part of the motor. www.delta-cams.com sells a kit specifically designed to solve this issue. The heads on the early models are so prone to cracking that they probably already are. But that’s not to scare you, if it runs good, it runs good. Just don’t overhead it =) that’s the only thing you want to worry about with this motor. The bottom part of the motor will never go bad, unless your pumping' out 300 hp to the wheels, and at that point you just want to look at stronger pistons, and stronger main bolts to keep it all together =)

The power steering pump is NOISEY, but that’s about it. You can run the thing dry (power steering) for a whole season and it still wont crap out on you, but it will eventually =)

200k on my alternator, no noise to this date

A/C compressor/clutch (really just the clutch) for me went a long time ago. But it’s a cheap do-it-yourself fix. The rest of the A/C system is fine, even after neglecting it after 100k miles; it’s still clean in there.

The transfer case (electric 4x4 or manual 4x4?), will probably never break. Worse that can happen is the chain snaps, another easy fix for the DIY'er. The electric shift motors on these things are known to get dirty, which a lot of people tend to mistake as a bad motor. Simply cleaning the connections for the most part fixes that. I've used my pushbutton 4x4 (at least) monthly for the past 200k miles; I've never had to clean the shift motor.

The automatic hubs are the weak link of the 4x4. The problem with these is the fact people tend to shove grease down into the hub, thinking it will do it some good. These hubs are 'Dry Hubs,' meaning they don’t take any lube. Lubing them up will be detrimental.

The wheel bearings don’t hold up well against tires larger then 33” They are simply spaced to closely.

The rear axle will never break in a v6 explorer. Unless you run it dry on gear oil, the only way to actually break the axle is by spinning the axle tubes. You’re not going to do that on the road, simple as that. You’re not going to do that with a v6, simple as that. +300ftlb torque is needed to even think about spinning those axle tubes.

The front axle (Twin Traction Beam, or TTB for short), is also pretty stout. Alignment can be a chore sometimes, as the toe changes throughout the suspension cycle. This is due to fords design of the steering links. This is not very noticeable unless you are lifting the vehicle. The radius arm bushings are the weakest link in the TTB, and this would be the first thing I would tell you to look at. If you notice that your truck is somewhat noisy over bumps and whatnot, these are likely the case.

After that, the MAF (mass airflow sensor) is known to get dirty and cause some interesting issues related with the motor. Pinging, surging, and a looping idle can be derived from a dirty MAF.

- Welp that’s all I can think of.
 






THANK YOU much for the information - it is greatly appreciated.

Take Care.
 






if the armrest is broken dont get the car...


HAHAHHA just kidding... creager took care of everything i can think of...
 






LOL ... Those things are so damn prone to breaking. I dont know if I've seen an early model explorer that had an intact armrest.
 






IF your '92 uses R-12 Freon......know this:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77331&highlight=Freon+R12


Or know someone who has some R-12?

Aloha, Mark

PS....Check the clutch fan......when the engine is cold (engine off), it should spin around w/o much effort.....when the engine is warm (engine off), it will feel like it is spinning on heavy greese. Also, check the plastic fan for cracks.

IF you can....get someone to checkout the frt end components. And, scan for codes.
 






Turns out the radius arm bushings need replaced. Les schwab quoted $200-$300 depending on what they see when they put it up on the lift - Ford wanted $400+.
 






DIY radius arm bushings replacements:

http://www.explorerforum.com/Singleton/web/pages/rab.html


parts:


http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...R1&mfrpartnumber=SHB1495K&parttype=76&ptset=A


I haven't changed mine......but, there are alot of guys who have done their own work, here on this site.....and there are alot of threads about the job.....do a search.


Aloha, Mark


PS.....When you own an older vehicle......alot of the fun is just beginning........and will continue thoughout it's (vehicle's) life.......learn to do your own repairs (or try).

This guy had his done....cheap.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149748
 






Delta Cams url is http://www.deltacam.com/ not www.delta-cams.com

If you really want someone else to do the RA bushings, at least take off the back of the bushing on the passenger side so you can see the metal bracket.. If the bracket is bent it will cost another $100 or so for the part..

Also, most shops charge less if it already has bolts. If it doesn't ask them how much for them to cut the rivots and put grade 8 bolts in. I had that done and now I do the RA bushings myself (I didn't have the tools to cut them myself at the time)..

~Mark
 






Oh boy, guess what was broken on my 92 XLT?


..the arm rest. :O

So the transmissions are prone to going? Also, with that engine tick, when we first started running it we were a little scared. We had an old 91 Trans Sport (not much fun, vans..) and it sounded exactly like that. Lost the engine in it (how many times do you have to tell them to check the oil?)
 






So....make us envious....how much for the '92 Explorer, XLT, 4dr, 4x4, w/ whatever info you wanna' tease us with??

Aloha, Mark
 






ddeg10 said:
I am supposed to go pick it up this weekend and just want to make sure there's not something major I've missed. Any last minute suggestions?

Also check the rear main seal for leakage. Pretty common on those trucks. If it's wet there, beat them down on the price a little. Unless it was really bad, it wouldn't be enough to stop me from buying the truck.
 






I brought it to the dealer and had them completely pick it apart and see what needed to be done, etc. They recommend a wheel bearing repack, front alignment, and the radius arm bushings. I am also putting new front pads on Tuesday. Probably going to hold off on the wheel bearing re-pack.... don't want to continue putting $ into this thing.
 






While your having all that front end work done, pop for the wheel bearings also, are most likly the most important parts of the front end.
 






Getting the radius arm bushings replaced, alignment, front pads, and wheel bearing re-pack for $300 on Tuesday from a local mechanic (Ford pads, autozone bushings).
 






That ($300) seems pretty reasonable to me for all of that work. A lot of places won't even touch radius arm bushings alone for that money. After you do that, you'll have a pretty good front end, at least. If it were me I'd want new front wheel bearings, not just a repack, like Spindle said, because that way I would know it was all new up front.
 






some known Engine Problems

Find out if the engine was worked on, EG: The valve covers link, the intake manifold does start to come loose after 50-60K miles. i mean turn the bolts by hand loose, causing an intake leak which causes pinging, carbon build-up around the #5 piston. soon after, oil and anti-freeze will leak into the piston chamber causing a real mess. This forum has a load of info into this problem. Ask if the 4X4 actuator was changed. This device manages the front 2 wheels in 4X4 mode.
 






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