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About to replace Radiator, water pump, thermostat...

Rainier

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So, my explorer, when I bought it, the guy claimed he didn't run it without coolant, but that the water pump needed replacing. Now, there was coolant sprayed over the engine bay from a leak in one of the heater core hoses.

We pressure tested, found that leak, cut the hose short, pressure tested again, and leaked it out side of the radiator.
I am planning to flush the heater core.

My question is: Should I try to do a coolant flush on the engine block? "there might not be anything in it to begin with".
If yes, with the old leaking stuff in place, Or just replace everything and then do the flush,

Or no, and just replace everything and put proper coolant in?

Thanks.

P.S If yes, easiest way to flush the block, when I have the radiator, and water pump removed? That would be my follow up question. A link if you have it to the walk through already made would work.
 


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1994explorer555

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I just remove the lower radiator hose and let all the stuff drain out. Its easily accessible without removing any extra parts.
 




Mbrooks420

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At that age I’d flush it with the existing stuff and then drain and replace.
 




Centaurious

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+1 on flushing now, especially if you use a strong acid or base based flush. Rinse with lots of water afterwards. Then the new parts can"t get plugged.
 




Rainier

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Alright, So the pump that came with the vehicle, but not installed, has no brand markings on it, and has a rusted impeller. Yes, I know it will be in contact with water. But I am thinking of getting a new one anyway. The gasket was bent to all hell, and not knowing the make, and how long it sat worries me a bit.

So, there are water pumps with included fan clutch
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...st-water-pump/102773_703178_29929_5281_162390
I notice the motorcraft is pump only, and the fan clutch is a separate purchase. Anyway,

I will have help of an experienced mechanic when I get in there, mainly because I am disabled, and can only work for a limited amount of time, before pain overwhelms my meds, and body... Follow up question:

Does anyone have experience with the above listed pump, and clutch combo? Is that what is needed?
What else should I replace at the same time?
Idler pulley? (I see this as a yes)
Should I bother with the alternator, and ac/compressor?
What else is on that belt?

Thank you all again.
 




MrQ

Smokey the clutch is; Missed shift you did
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Its a lifetime warranty, so I would go with yes.
  • Easy check on the alternator. Grab your multimeter and put the positive lead on the alternator terminal and the other on the negative battery terminal while the engine is idling. As long as it is about 12v (13 -14v preferred) you should be fine.
  • If your A/C system is working I'd leave the compressor alone.
  • Idler pulley, ehh, depending on how old it is, yes.
Tensioner and power steering pump are the remainder of the items run by the accessory belt. I would look at replacing the tensioner. Easy way to check is to put a 3/8 wrench into the socket on the tensioner, push down and release. If it takes a good amount of force to move it and it springs back in place you should be good, otherwise replace it.
 




roscoe 0202

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if you want to use that pump and gasket soak the gasket in hot water it will straighten right up
roscoe
 




ExploreHudson

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Water pump impellors are usually stamped or cast, the latter being much better. I always make sure to use a cast impellor, it will take 5x as long to rust through
 




Rainier

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Thank you all for your input. I will hopefully have it up and running by the end of the month.
 




Rainier

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Water pump impellors are usually stamped or cast, the latter being much better. I always make sure to use a cast impellor, it will take 5x as long to rust through
Pardon my ignorance, but how would I tell the difference?
 




ExploreHudson

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I wish I had taken pictures last time I compared. The cast one will appear as one solid piece with a rough surface finish. The stamped one will appear like a thin sheet metal fan was slipped over a rod, with a smoother finish. Sometimes the edges and corners will be slightly curled from the stamping process
 




Rainier

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Hopefully someone views this thread again.
I got the radiator pulled and tons of brown water/coolant out. But a few curiosities.
Nothing was hard to undue.
Fan clutch, I didn't have to try hard at all, basically it was barely hand tight.

The pulley roller thing that mounts to the fant clutch, same thing.
Heck the bolts for the water pump, all loose.

I'm not even sure the water pump was bad. Seems maybe it wasn't torqued down.

Gasket looked like it had failed maybe and there is gunk everywhere i have to clean up.

How much torque to use when putting it back together? Taking it apart seemed too easy.

Ps. Worked on it over 2 days so far. I am disabled and I can only wrench for very short time before the pain overtakes me.
 




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