ABS light on...how bad? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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ABS light on...how bad?

The Airbag light blinks 3 times, 10 different times on my 03 Ford Explorer and then stays lit.

Pulled the error code, and am, getting code # b2292. I checked both yellow plugs, and reconnected them. When I do this, with the vehicle off, and start the vehicle back up, the light wont come on. But, as soon as I turn the vehicle off, and back on, the Airbag light comes back on and starts blinking before staying lit.

But everyone I turn the car off, and disconnect, and reconnect the yellow harnesses under the seats, and turn the car back on- the light doesnt come on. But again, once I turn the vehicle off, and back on - it starts again.

How can I fix this? Please help? Or any suggestions on how to JUST get that light off...I dont care about fixing it...unless its cheap and easy.

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96 ranger 2wd - suddenly brake light and abs light came on the dash panel as soon as I started the truck. No codes, nothing.

Brakes were fine after checking them, everything seemed fine, until not too long later...
Suddenly I hear a grinding noise. Ended up the calliper seized.

So I slapped a new one on, good as new! Hope that helps.

All these complaints about the ABS light being on, and I want to import an Explorer from Japan and it has that very same problem - any advice??

abs light

I have two rangers, a 89xlt and a 97. on in arizona and one in washington. the 89 in az. has the abs light and brake warning light on. Is this an easy fix?

I have two rangers, a 89xlt and a 97. on in arizona and one in washington. the 89 in az. has the abs light and brake warning light on. Is this an easy fix?

The Red Warning brake light should only come on if you are Low on brake fluid or have the E-Brake on. As for the ABS light you'd need to determine the cause. It could be one of the wheel sensors, the hydraulic unit, or the ABS computer itself.

When the ABS computer detects a fault in one of it's sensors it disables ABS braking (standard braking is unaffected). It does this because the sensors tell the ABS computer each wheel's speed; the ABS computer uses this info to pulse the brakes accordingly during a lock up condition... As such the Yellow ABS light is no immediate cause for alarm, just an indication that ABS braking is not working.

Purchased my '98 with the abs light on. I was told by the seller that he didn't know why it had come on but it was after someone was trying to figure out why the cab light wouldn't go out. I checked the fuses and all were good but they were installed per a '97 fuse pattern. Correct fuses but some were in the wrong place. After putting all in the correct places abs light went out and all is good. I even used the WD40 fix for the door switch making the cab light stay on. Now all is fixed. Great truck by the way.

ABS light

My ABS light came on and stayed on. The code was C1230 "Wheel speed sensor, rear center input circuit failure" and C1102 "Acceleration switch circuit failure. I replaced the rear wheel speed sensor in the rear pumkin (cost $24.95 from Ford dealer) and the light when off automatically.

Abs bleeding

Hi Everyone,

I just replaced all the steel lines on my 96 Explorer after the pedal went to the floor. I found one rear line rusted thru over the rear axle hsg. and the FR broke just above the frame bracket to the rubber hose.
Now the ABS lite is on and I assum there is air in the ABS valve and pump system. I pressure bled the system and still have a slightly spongy pedal. I see in the service manual you need special tool T50P-..... and the cable to bleed the ABS.
My question are ;
1. Does anybody actually know what the box does?
2. Can you jump out the cables to simulate the action?
3. Has anybody done this?
4. Does anybody have or know where I can find the Electrical and Hyd. schematics for the ABS pump/module?
5. And Last but not least, Do any of the ABS scanners ( actron, OTC, etc.) have the ability to reset the valves and pump module?

Thanks and any response vill be GREATLY accepted.


Sorry cant help you, may be you can help me. My 97 explorer, hard time starting, only clicking, added water to battery she ran good and strong till last nite. After work, car started, all dash lights on and went off except ABS. 4miles and 20 min. later got home, turned off car ,opened door, no lites no nothing shes dead. Any way to bring her back?

So I was looking through the scan tools that advance sells and some of the scanners can now read ABS codes. So I called Advance and they had upgraded their scanners so that they can now pull the ABS codes. I had them pull the one on mine, replaced the part that was faulty, and so far so good. Just letting everyone know that the dealership isn't your only option anymore to have your ABS code read.

wanted to add some information about ABS light.

1994 Ranger XLT 2.3 5 speed - 2wd

ABS light been on for many years,
mechanic said it was throwing a code 11
turns out it was the failed sensor cast inside the
brake master cylinder.
he changed the entire master cylinder-- the code reset.

now I have ABS working with no ABS light on.


ABS sensor

2000 Mazda B-3000. Problem: ABS light went on, then Check Engine light. Speedometer not functioning until about 30 mph, tranny shifts hard on 2nd to drive shift. Read possible diagnosis’ online. Plan A: uncoupled large electrical loom plug under the cab below driver’s seat. No moisture, but carefully applied heat gun anyhow. NOPE. Plan B: Replaced ABS speed sensor on the top of the differential. Mazda did not have one so went to Ford, part # F85Z-9E731-AB. Cost: $36.24. Easy fix. Backed truck up on metal ramps , blocked front tire. Left wire plug on the sensor, removed 1 bolt and wiggled the sensor out of it’s hole. Then removed wire plug and plugged to new sensor. Put a film of oil on the sensor’s O-ring, and wigged it back down into the hole. 1 bolt later and DONE. Drove it – worked fine, but Check Engine light still on. Disconnected + side battery cable for 2 hours to let that reset, and there you have it.

always start by checking the abs fuse..I took my 03 explorer to.the dealer...after they scanned it ..the code came up 1440...bad deactivator switch on master brake cylinder..had it replaced and still the abs light came on..the dealer said it would take 1 to 2 hour to find the short..that sounded like BS....took the car home and started with the basics..THE ABS FUSE...sure enough that was it..I believe the machanic was either an idiot or was trying to rip me off

My ABS Light came on, but I am also now getting this grinding feeling. Did this cause my brakes to start locking up some as Im driving?

My ABS Light came on, but I am also now getting this grinding feeling. Did this cause my brakes to start locking up some as Im driving?

When the Yellow ABS light comes on it indicates the ABS computer has detected some problem with the ABS system and has De-activated ABS braking. Normal braking is un-affected and remains in full force. ABS braking is not essential or mandatory and therefore why the warning is Yellow instead of Red.

ABS braking simply uses wheel speed sensors to detect how fast each wheel is rotating during braking. If one wheel is rotating a lot slower than another ABS will pulse (quickly release) the brake on the slower wheel. The attempt is to slow the vehicle down as quickly as possible while keeping all wheels moving at close to the same speed which allows a driver to remain in control.

Having said that there is no cause for the ABS light to cause any grinding of any kind. As mentioned above when the ABS light is ON then it is doing NOTHING (the system is deactivated). When were the brake pads last changed? Any grinding during normal braking would indicate worn pads, or a stuck caliper.