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ABS problems

javey

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 7, 2006
Messages
102
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City, State
Spokane
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT
Well I am still having ABS troubles, so I took the beast in and had it scanned...c1102,c1230, and c1237, all related to the rear wheel sensor...I replaced it again, disconnected the battery and its still on...what else could it be? I also changed the diff. fluid, but no help. Exciter ring? And how much does Ford usually charge to replace that at the stealership? Would that even fix my problem? Grr Im so sick of this light!!!
 



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did you test the wiring that runs to the senor, there could be a break in the wire.
 






No, where do I use the multimeter to do that?
 






start with a visual check, many times you can identify the break without even using a multimeter. trace the wires and look for obvious pinches or cuts along the way. I will need to lookup the wiring diagram, and I can't right now I am working on a video presentation for church. I will take a look as soon as I can.
 






Thank you in advance for all the help, I really appreciate it!
 






do you have the same codes again??


also, what is the 8th digit of your VIN??
 












I dont want to pay 65 bucks to have it tested again lol :( but its a 98 ex with the 4.0 SOHC

autozone should test it for you. it's scanned just like engine codes, but will begin with B or C instead of P.
 






I think you'll find that the testers used at most parts stores are simple OBDII code pullers for the PCM and cannot access B and C trouble codes in the 4WABS Module or other modules.

I agree that, since the sensor has already been replaced, the next step is to check continuity on the RD/PK and LG/BK wires between the axle sensor and the 4WABS Module.
 






OK, I tried to find the wiring diagram but for some reason my manuals do not detail the abs sensors. Looks like rwenzing gave you a good start with the wire colors.

Just use an ohm meter between those two wires and see if it is reading a resistance. If you get no reading there is a break somewhere in the line. the ABS sensor contains a coil, but since I cannot find the diagram I can't tell you what the resistance range should be.
I will check again see if I can find the specs.
 






the rear sensor should give you a reading between .8 and 3.5 kilo ohms

I printed the diagnostic pages from the Ford Manual to PDF

you may find them useful, I put them on my web server you can download them (dead link)
 






Well Im getting a no reading off of my harness so Imma splice directly into my wiring and see if this new harness is my problem...to test continuity though do I need the engine running?
 






Well Im getting a no reading off of my harness so Imma splice directly into my wiring and see if this new harness is my problem...to test continuity though do I need the engine running?

the key should be OFF.

never test resistance (Ohms) in a powered circuit...you'll blow your meter.
 






the key should be OFF.

never test resistance (Ohms) in a powered circuit...you'll blow your meter.

yeah, you never want to blow your meter on the first date :D
 






yeah, you never want to blow your meter on the first date :D

Eeeee!!! Thanks once again, it's a top model of Fluke too lol that would have sucked...Ill splice into the wire direct then. Should I get a resistance reading from the prongs of the wiring harness though? Yes right?
 






yeah, this is where it is handy to have a breakout box for your PCM but since most of use cannot afford to stock every possible tool, you could back probe the PCM connections, but you will want to be careful with that. You could also prob the wires through the insulation, I am not a big fan of that because it introduces an opportunity for moisture and ultimately wire corrosion. If you do decide to probe the wires, put some silicon sealer over the probe marks when finished to seal the wires.

But it is best tested at the PCM to include all the wiring in the test.
 






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