Abs scan tool

[cdt785]

Hi. I just purchased a 2002 Ford explorer sport. It needed A new brake caliper, master cylinder and brake pads which replaced. I bled everything and now I see I need a scan tool for the ABS system. Anyone have any ideals where I can purchase one, or what the actual tool is so I could look for one? Also, do you plug it into the abs unit to get it to bleed? Been doing brakes for 30 years, never ran across this! Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[waskly]

ford uses a tool called an IDS to bleed the abs.

i think some snap on scanners can also do this.

i'm just going to ask, do you have a brake pedal? or does it go to the ground?

snapon scanner runs about 4000, ford ids is over 10k.

 

[tower]

This one will work as far as reading or resetting abs codes.
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3150-Professional-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001QIYAQ0

I have replace all of the parts you have (although not at the same time) and did not have a problem, what are you running into?

 

[cdt785]

Thanks for your replys Wasky and Tower. What seams to happen is when I start it up after sitting for a while, The pedel is firm, right at the top. Brakes feel great for about 2-3 miles. Two stop lights and a stop for coffee later,the pedel looses it's firmness and goes down to about halfway.I have bled them a dozen times in the order of RR, LR RF LF. Seams like they just won't stay hard. Doing research says air in the HCU unit and the scan tool is the only way to purge the air out. Oh... I did put new hub assemblies on both sides. The anti lock brakes always came on under 5 MPH. both of the ssemblies were leaking grease. Went with Timken assemblies. Sorry for such a long response. Any other ideals? Thanks so much for any help. Chris

 

[cdt785]

Is there something else I should be looking for other than air in the HCU? Should I try another way to bleed the brakes,like a reverse brake bleeder? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again.

 

[jrford]

can you take it to a quickie lube? They hook up a machine the pulls fluid from all four brakes at the same time while filling it from the top. They wanted $80 when i did it to my 15yr heep. Figured 15 years and 180k it might be a good idea.
Or what about a mom and pop brake place they have the tool most likely not sure how much they will charge?

 

[skeeter123]

My 2 cents: you say that now you need a scan tool for ABS, is the ABS check light on? If not, you're better off not messing with the ABS at all.

What does "the ABS always comes on below 5mph" mean?

Some of the conventional scanners/code readers (like my Equus-3160, ~ $200) can read and reset the ABS error codes. But it takes the big-bucks Snapon and Ford systems to actually command the ABS to open and close internal valves to allow you to purge air and flush brake fluid through the ABS pump. Most folks will bleed brakes/replace the fluid while ignoring the ABS system; usually no problem since there is no air in the lines. I did mine that way ~ 2years ago. Problems may come if when changing pads, the caliper is forced open without opening up the bleeder; then old brake fluid, debris, and possibly air bubbles are forced backward into the ABS pump/valves, and can't be cleared without the $$$ machine.

Since you're not the original owner, you may want to check that the brake bleeders are actually located toward the top of the caliper, not lower down. I read a post on here where some one had installed the calipers upside down (and right/left), and the bleeder valves couldn't let all the air out. Not sure if that's possible on the Sport but it's worth a look.
Hope this helps.

 

[waskly]

This one will work as far as reading or resetting abs codes.
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3150-Professional-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001QIYAQ0

I have replace all of the parts you have (although not at the same time) and did not have a problem, what are you running into?

hes looking for a tool to do this with...

http://i.imgur.com/t8ml5.png

 

[waskly]

Thanks for your replys Wasky and Tower. What seams to happen is when I start it up after sitting for a while, The pedel is firm, right at the top. Brakes feel great for about 2-3 miles. Two stop lights and a stop for coffee later,the pedel looses it's firmness and goes down to about halfway.I have bled them a dozen times in the order of RR, LR RF LF. Seams like they just won't stay hard. Doing research says air in the HCU unit and the scan tool is the only way to purge the air out. Oh... I did put new hub assemblies on both sides. The anti lock brakes always came on under 5 MPH. both of the ssemblies were leaking grease. Went with Timken assemblies. Sorry for such a long response. Any other ideals? Thanks so much for any help. Chris

with engine not running pedal should be hard, once the booster is depleted.

with engine running it should have some travel.

no, since you bleed the brakes, can you floor the pedal or is max travel about 3/4 of the way?

2nd question when driving, and you hit the brakes when do they actually catch to when they actually stop.

how far is the pedal travel.

 

[cdt785]

with engine not running pedal should be hard, once the booster is depleted.

with engine running it should have some travel.

no, since you bleed the brakes, can you floor the pedal or is max travel about 3/4 of the way?

2nd question when driving, and you hit the brakes when do they actually catch to when they actually stop.

how far is the pedal travel.

 

[cdt785]

My 2 cents: you say that now you need a scan tool for ABS, is the ABS check light on? If not, you're better off not messing with the ABS at all.

What does "the ABS always comes on below 5mph" mean?

Some of the conventional scanners/code readers (like my Equus-3160, ~ $200) can read and reset the ABS error codes. But it takes the big-bucks Snapon and Ford systems to actually command the ABS to open and close internal valves to allow you to purge air and flush brake fluid through the ABS pump. Most folks will bleed brakes/replace the fluid while ignoring the ABS system; usually no problem since there is no air in the lines. I did mine that way ~ 2years ago. Problems may come if when changing pads, the caliper is forced open without opening up the bleeder; then old brake fluid, debris, and possibly air bubbles are forced backward into the ABS pump/valves, and can't be cleared without the $$$ machine.

Since you're not the original owner, you may want to check that the brake bleeders are actually located toward the top of the caliper, not lower down. I read a post on here where some one had installed the calipers upside down (and right/left), and the bleeder valves couldn't let all the air out. Not sure if that's possible on the Sport but it's worth a look.
Hope this helps.

 

[cdt785]

My 2 cents: you say that now you need a scan tool for ABS, is the ABS check light on? If not, you're better off not messing with the ABS at all.

What does "the ABS always comes on below 5mph" mean?

Some of the conventional scanners/code readers (like my Equus-3160, ~ $200) can read and reset the ABS error codes. But it takes the big-bucks Snapon and Ford systems to actually command the ABS to open and close internal valves to allow you to purge air and flush brake fluid through the ABS pump. Most folks will bleed brakes/replace the fluid while ignoring the ABS system; usually no problem since there is no air in the lines. I did mine that way ~ 2years ago. Problems may come if when changing pads, the caliper is forced open without opening up the bleeder; then old brake fluid, debris, and possibly air bubbles are forced backward into the ABS pump/valves, and can't be cleared without the $$$ machine.

Since you're not the original owner, you may want to check that the brake bleeders are actually located toward the top of the caliper, not lower down. I read a post on here where some one had installed the calipers upside down (and right/left), and the bleeder valves couldn't let all the air out. Not sure if that's possible on the Sport but it's worth a look.
Hope this helps.

 

[cdt785]

The pefel is rock hard and grabs up high for first 2 to 3 miles. Then it goes halfway down. If I pump it twice, it go's back to firm again.Any thoughts on what causes this to happen? Thanks again in advance.

 

[waskly]

The pefel is rock hard and grabs up high for first 2 to 3 miles. Then it goes halfway down. If I pump it twice, it go's back to firm again.Any thoughts on what causes this to happen? Thanks again in advance.

i would bleed the brakes again, but, this time, do left front, right rear, right front, left rear.

the vehicle does not do an abs event or abs going off from like a bad sensor, dropping the pedal.