AC Compressor Exploded!

[turblown]

2003 Explorer XLT V6 4.0 4x4 with rear (aux) air conditioning. AC Compressor exploded! Assuming the A/C system has metal shavings in it. I've done some searching and found that I need to have a flush done, replace several parts myself (see list) and then have the system evacuated & charged with freon.

Question: Do I need to remove/replace anything before I take it to the shop to have the flush done?

Parts List:
- Compressor (Motorcraft YCC223)
- Condenser (Motorcraft YJ431)
- Receiver Drier / Accumulator (Motorcraft YF2705)
- Orifice Tube in Front (Motorcraft YG346)
- Expansion Valve in Rear (Motorcraft YG371)

 

[esclamada]

wow, looks like the A/C compressor is now showing it's age for this explorers. Mine didn't explode like that but the scroll inside disintegrated into pieces and then locked up.

The thing is you can't just replace everything and do a flush to the shop. You have to remove each part including the hoses and flush them separately and then that's the time to reconnect and vacuum and charge.

I'd rather replace the accumulator/drier, orifice tube, condenser and expansion valve.
All the hoses can be flushed, you don't need to buy new.


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[turblown]

The thing is you can't just replace everything and do a flush to the shop. You have to remove each part including the hoses and flush them separately and then that's the time to reconnect and vacuum and charge.[/url]

The shop would pull connections apart and flush the system a section at a time. Then I would replace parts at home and take it back to the shop for an evac and recharge. I was quoted $150 to flush the front and rear AC lines and components.

BUT... now I'm debating if I should get a shop to flush it at all. More searching told me to pull the orifice tube before I do anything. There are some metal shavings, but it's not covered or anything. I don't have access to shop air, so I can't do a full flush at home.

Question: Should I go with a full flush from the shop or just spray some solvent through a few lines in the front and call it a day?

SIDE 1

SIDE 2

 

[Bobmbx]

Lets stipulate that the compressor started to disintegrate before it exploded.

This disintegration put things into the system that aren't supposed to be there. The orifice tube caught (some) of the pieces larger than the screen. There are other, smaller pieces still throughout the system. These need to be removed, otherwise you'll be replacing your compressor again.

And you can't blow them out with an air hose.

Flush it. And have peace of mind.

 

[75ohm]

Flush the system correctly... or have the shop do it. If you're doing the repair yourself, the kit is cheap enough -- but don't forget the PAG oil.

 

[Maniak]

As bad as that looks, I don't see black death there. So, you should be able to just flush it out as others have said.

I haven't had good luck flushing out condensers or evaporators but the line seem to flush out pretty well. Other people flush out the evaporator/condenser instead of swapping them and it seems to work for them. AND, actually, I did skip swapping the evaporator last time but I knew my system was on borrowed time anyway.

So, like others have said, change the compressor, accumulator, orifice tube and personally I'd do the evaporator and condenser. Then flush out the lines.

Once those parts are changed its just a matter of pulling a vacuum and charging the system.

~Mark

 

[ladder7477]

my compressor has just done the same thing. I have front and rear a/c. Do I need to replace both evaporators? I was using the rear at the time of the explosion.

 

[turblown]

Do I need to replace both evaporators? I was using the rear at the time of the explosion.

I was using the rear air as well when the compressor went out. After a lot of research, I decided NOT to flush or replace either the front or rear evaporators. Apparently, it is near impossible to flush an evaporator and get it completely dried out while it is still installed on the car. From what I found, the amount of oil (which may or may not contain debris) in the evaporators is minimal.

Here is a good resource for AC flushing.

 

[turblown]

BACKGROUND:

I was quoted $1600 for a shop to do the complete job or $325 for flush, vacuum and recharge only. I found it difficult to get a quote from a shop for just an AC flush. Most shops normally do it as part of AC repair and not just a stand-alone job. This motivated me to see how hard it would be to rent some tools and do it on my own. I stated before that I don't have access to “shop air”, but I actually do have a small 1 gallon (100 psi max) air compressor. I wasn’t sure if it would get the job done, but it did just fine. It was constantly refilling due to its small capacity, but it worked. I bought some additional accessories (blow guns, moisture separator, connectors, etc.) for this job, but I know I will use them again in the future. The flush proved useful. I only found a few metal shavings, but a lot of other debris got flushed out of the lines.

Total DIY cost was about $700 (Motorcraft parts) including tools purchased.

RESOURCES:

• AC Compressor Remove and Replace
• Accessing the rear Expansion Valve (total panel removal is not necessary)
• Rear Expansion Valve (Rear AC) Remove and Replace (total panel removal is not necessary)
• Flushing and cleaning the A/C System
• How to Recharge AC (good general overview, follow AC gauge kit instructions for specifics)

PARTS REMOVAL:

Removed drive belt, air intake assembly, battery, etc to gain access to the AC system components.

Removed the front Orifice Tube from the Condenser to Evaporator line to assess the damages. Compressor gave no previous warning signs of damage (noises). Appeared to be an instantaneous failure with minimal amount of metal collected.

Removed the Expansion Valve from the Rear Evaporator to assess the damages. Appeared to be a minimal amount of metal collected.

Removed AC Manifold Line connections from Compressor, Condenser and Accumulator

Removed AC Manifold Line Brackets from the bottom of the vehicle to allow for free movement (but not removal) of the line.

Removed Condenser to Front Evaporator (Hi Press) line connection from Condenser.

Removed Front Evaporator to Accumulator (Lo Press) line connection from Accumulator.

Removed Rear Evaporator to Accumulator (Lo Press) line connection from Accumulator AC Manifold line.

Removed Condenser to Rear Evaporator (Hi Press) line connection from Rear Evaporator.

Removed rear Evaporator to Accumulator (Lo Press) line connection from Rear Evaporator.

Did not remove any line connections that required special tools (metal o-rings).

Removed Accumulator.

Removed Compressor.

Removed Condenser.

FLUSHING:

- Rent AC Flush Kit from Auto Zone = Free

- AC Flush (32oz) = $15

- Compressed Air with moisture separator, tire chuck, rubber-tip blowgun

- Flush Catch Container = DIY

Back flushed (4oz) Condenser to Compressor (Hi Press) line. Line blown with compressed air to dry.

Back flushed (8oz) Compressor to Accumulator (Lo Press) line. Attempted to flush as found, but had to move the Accumulator side of the line below the car to get good flow and a decent flush. Line blown with compressed air to dry.

Back Flushed (8oz) Rear Evaporator (Hi Press) line to Condenser. This was done with the connection around the Orifice Tube disconnected and capped (zip tie and a rubber glove). The Condenser line connection was placed below the front of the car to get good flow and a decent flush. Line blown with compressed air to dry.

Back Flushed (8oz) Accumulator (Lo Press) line to Rear Evaporator. Line blown with compressed air to dry.

After a lot of searching and evaluation of the situation, I decided NOT to flush either the Front or Rear Evaporators. Apparently, it is near impossible to flush an evaporator and get it completely dried out while it is still installed on the car. From what I found, the amount of oil (which may or may not contain debris) in the evaporators is minimal (3oz total).

Added a small amount of flush the hi press line going in the Front Evaporator and blew air through the low pressure line. Line blown with compressed air to dry.

Added a small amount of flush the lo press line coming out of the Front Evaporator and blew air through the hi press line. Line blown with compressed air to dry.

REINSTALLING PARTS AND LINE CONNECTIONS:

- PAG 46 Refrigerant Oil with Dye (8oz) = $11
- AC o-ring kit = $13
- Measuring cups (ability to measure 1oz increments)
- System refrigerant oil capacity = 13oz

Added 1oz of PAG 46 Refrigerant Oil with Dye to the input of the New Condenser
Installed New Condenser

Removed 7oz of Refrigerant Oil from New Compressor
Added 7oz of PAG 46 Refrigerant Oil with Dye to the input of the New Compressor
Installed New Compressor

Added 2oz of Refrigerant Oil (from New Compressor) to the input of the New Accumulator
Installed New Accumulator

One at a time, each line was blown with compressed air to dry, o-rings (dabbed with plumber’s lube) were replaced and the lines were reconnected to each component. Ensured new o-rings were same size and thickness (or did not replace).

Installed rear Expansion Valve.

Installed front Orifice Tube.

VACUUMING AND RECHARGING THE SYSTEM:

- Rent A/C Gauge Set with Refrigerant Can adapter valve from Auto Zone = Free
- Rent Vacuum Pump from Auto Zone = Free

- R134a refrigerant (5 x 12oz cans) = $50
- Temperature gauge or Multimeter with temperature function
- System R134a refrigerant capacity = 56oz

Followed A/C gauge set directions to put a vacuum on the system.

Replaced drive belt, air intake assembly, battery, etc while vacuum pump was running.
Pulled a vacuum to 30in Hg for 30 min, closed all valves, allowed to sit for 30 min and checked for leaks.

Followed A/C gauge set directions for charging the system.

Placed a jumper wire on the low pressure sensor connector to engage the compressor.

Continued to look for dye colored leaks and listening for leaks.

Kept track of the lo side press, high side press and total amount of R134a added to the system (56oz max)

Used this chart as a general rule of thumb:

A/C CHARGING RESULTS:

R134a Can - - Ambient Temp - - Dash Temp - - Lo Side Press - - Hi Side Press
#1 - - - - - - - 94 deg F - - - - - 99 deg F - - - 10 psi - - - - - - 125 psi
#2 - - - - - - - 94 deg F - - - - - 90 deg F - - - 45 psi - - - - - - 225 psi
#3 - - - - - - - 92 deg F - - - - - 66 deg F - - - 47 psi - - - - - - 235 psi
#4 - - - - - - - 95 deg F - - - - - 60 deg F - - - 44 psi - - - - - - 245 psi
#5 - - - - - - - 95 deg F - - - - - 57 deg F - - - 44 psi - - - - - - 260 psi

* For R134a Can #1 only half a can was used so the system capacity was not exceeded.

During test drive, dash temp dropped to about 46 deg F.

LESSONS LEARNED:

• Don’t forget to place a jumper wire on the low pressure sensor connector to engage the compressor.
• Inspect/use original o-rings to avoid leaks if exact size/thickness replacements are not available.
• R134a cans will empty quickly (1min) if there is a leak in the system. Normal empty time is about 10 min per can.
• ABS warning light may come on if ABS connector was disconnected during A/C repairs. This light will go off during your first test drive.

 

[2003FD]

I just had to send a super quick message.

How I found your post was typing into GOOGLE "2003 FORD EXPLORER AIR COMPRESSOR EXPLODED" because that is what happened to my Explorer 1.5 months ago. Blew up into pieces.

I cant run the air in anyway. The Auto Shop I took it to says the belt that runs the compressor also runs the driving train? (not a car person).

It has 132,000 miles on it and has been nothing but a pain in the AXX.
I bought it after being in an accident which totaled my Nissan Pathfinder which was an AWESOME truck.
I got a good price on the Explorer and it looked beautiful.
I think its a worthless piece of junk.

First quote $2500 to fix.
Second Quote: $950.00

I purchased a portable car lighter fan from Walmart until the heat calms down.
I will use the electric seat warmers in the winter time.

I hate this car. HATE HATE HATE

 

[turblown]

The Auto Shop I took it to says the belt that runs the compressor also runs the driving train? (not a car person).

There is one belt connecting the engine to all of the accessories, including the A/C Compressor. This is only an issue if the A/C Compressor locks up and does not allow the belt and thus the engine to turn. If the explorer is running/driving okay then the A/C Compressor has not locked up. If it has locked up and you do not want to replace it right away, the A/C Compressor can be replaced with an A/C Bypass Pulley ($30) to allow the belt to keep turning.

I purchased a portable car lighter fan from Walmart until the heat calms down. I will use the electric seat warmers in the winter time.

A bad A/C Compressor should not affect the heater or blower motor. The explorer should still be able to heat and blow air out of the vents.

 

[2003FD]

FANTASTIC.
Thank you so much for letting me know and providing such valuable information.
What a relief.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.

 

[esclamada]

if the compressor pulley is still fine you can just disconnect the electrical connector to the compressor clutch. This will prevent the compressor from locking when starting the truck. The compressor initially kicks in for a few seconds everytime during startup.



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[2003FD]

Thank you all for such wonderful feedback.

Unfortunately, I haven't had this truck long enough to have established a rapport with a trustworthy mechanic (have owned for 1 year).

I don't know much about cars (even though my father used to be one of the top part managers, for Chrysler/Dodge. His motto was learn the hard way, then you will remember !!)

Therefore, in a nutshell, I don't know how to go about finding out what damage was actually done.

I was working part time for a company when this initially happened, and took it to the auto place they recommended. I no longer am working at that company and the auto place is far from where I live.

The quote I received provided NO DETAILon the damages. I am at a loss to what the actual damages are other than "compressor exploded"

Any suggestions where I should go to get a detailed analysis of the damages, and what their suggestions are to fix? (I live in Orange County, CA - near Orange)
- Should I go to a AAA Certified Mechanic
- Or should I go to a Ford Dealership

Then I can determine with some intelligence, if I can use my air or not until I can afford to fix it??

Thanks again for all your feedback

 

[ladder7477]

I just replaced all the a/c stuff from when the compressor exploded. I flushed everything to the best of my ability. I pulled a vacuum for an hour with out any leaks. When I went to recharge the system I was only able to get about two pounds in and my low side pressure is reading around 50 or 60. the compressor wont shut off also. that's my main concern. Any thoughts about what the problem may be? do I still have debrie blocking flow?