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Accessing cabin fuse box??

phareous

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So I've read all the threads and I can actually see the fuse box. The problem is there is a huge cover going over everything and I cannot physically get my hand into the fuse box. Is this a 2013 thing? It is bolted on so doesn't look very easy to remove. I don't even know the purpose of this cover..it appears to maybe protect a wiring harness and maybe the parking brake cable

2013-06-27%2020.12.52.jpg
 



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None of the stuff I read about mentioned that panel either, but my 2013 Sport had it.
It comes off with 2 bolts under the steering wheel trim.
Once you do that, the fuse panel is to the left but still almost impossible to get to.
 






Do you think the cover could just be left off? I'm wondering exactly what the purpose is. My guess is the 2011's did not have it
 






Do you think the cover could just be left off? I'm wondering exactly what the purpose is. My guess is the 2011's did not have it
You are correct. The 2011 does not have that cover shown in the picture. Just the cover on the fuse box itself. That doesn't make it much easier to get at though. At least not for me.

Peter
 






How do you get the the fuse box? Hire a contortionist - or move the driver's seat all the way back, lay on your back on the driver side floor, and contort yourself into position. That cover on the newer models didn't make things any easier.
 






I had to lower the pedals to the floor, put the seat all the way back, and contort myself under there to reach up and get to the fuse box, absolutely hands down worst designed fuse box location I've seen so far.
 






Fuse access is rubbish

Just to vent. My Radio froze today in my 2016 Ford Explorer Sport. The on off button didn't work...no sound. Included, the whole voice portion of the car was also not working. On off of the car didn't solve it.

My bright idea? Pull the fuse! But if you have ever tried to pull the fuse in this SUV you know its impossible. Under the dash is a cover that is bolted to the dash. WTF?!! Well that was a lost cause. I'll try again tomorrow.
 






Just to vent. My Radio froze today in my 2016 Ford Explorer Sport. The on off button didn't work...no sound. Included, the whole voice portion of the car was also not working. On off of the car didn't solve it.

My bright idea? Pull the fuse! But if you have ever tried to pull the fuse in this SUV you know its impossible. Under the dash is a cover that is bolted to the dash. WTF?!! Well that was a lost cause. I'll try again tomorrow.

Pull the negative battery cable for a minute.
 












Pull the negative battery cable for a minute.

It only takes a minute. Fast and easy. Not that one should have to, but that's Sync 2.

And yes, the fuse panel is in a terrible place for easy access. Been that way since '11 and hasn't changed.
 






Hi guys,

I've recently purchased a dashcam that I want to hardwire using the fuse box.
YouTube is very limited on the videos available on how to access it. The one video I did find looks like it may be really complicated.

Do any of you know how to access the fuse box in a 2015 Ford Explorer Limited easily?
 












Hi guys,

I've recently purchased a dashcam that I want to hardwire using the fuse box.
YouTube is very limited on the videos available on how to access it. The one video I did find looks like it may be really complicated.

Do any of you know how to access the fuse box in a 2015 Ford Explorer Limited easily?
The fusebox is so horrible, that the path of least resistance is to do a hardwire. I may be exaggerating slightly...

You have two options to really consider -- hardwiring to the A-pillar, or hardwiring to the roof controls. Here's a DIY thread for my dashcam install.
 






@kmarnes: yes i saw it, but I wish to have a circuit that is without voltage when the car is parked...so I need to connect the wire to the fuse box...
 






@kmarnes: yes i saw it, but I wish to have a circuit that is without voltage when the car is parked...so I need to connect the wire to the fuse box...
Some wires have constant power and some don't (accessory). That applies to both wires and fuses. In the case of my dashcam install, I needed one of each.
 






The fusebox is so horrible, that the path of least resistance is to do a hardwire. I may be exaggerating slightly...

You have two options to really consider -- hardwiring to the A-pillar, or hardwiring to the roof controls. Here's a DIY thread for my dashcam install.

Just completed my hardwire install. I did actually end up using the fuse box because I didn't wanna mess anything up in the A pillar.

Getting into the fuse box was not too much of an issue :) Definitely easier than I thought it was going to be.
 






Just completed my hardwire install. I did actually end up using the fuse box because I didn't wanna mess anything up in the A pillar.

Getting into the fuse box was not too much of an issue :) Definitely easier than I thought it was going to be.

Which fuse position did you use, what type of connector?
thx
 






Which fuse position did you use, what type of connector?
thx

I ended up fuse #3 which is the 30A passenger automatic window.

The connector I used was the mini fuse tap - I had bought the low profile tap since all the fuses were low profile however, the low profile tap does not actually sit in the connectors.

Let me know if you need a link to the mini fuse tap.
 






Just keep in mind, in 2016 Ford switched from micro to mini.
 



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Just keep in mind, in 2016 Ford switched from micro to mini.

Yes, the 2015 Limited has low profile mini fuses however, I was able to use the micro 2 fuse(s) for my hardwire.
 






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