add-a-leaf question:

[izackary]

Has anyone had trouble cranking off the u-bolt nuts disconnecting the axle from the leaf spring? i broke a 3/8" drive 18mm deep socket trying to get my first one off. i suppose a 1/2" drive wouldn't break, but are they known to be full of locktite or welded on or something??

EDIT:

While i'm on the topic of leaf springs, what can you guys tell me about aftermarket lifted spring packs? who sells them? availability? price? quality? durability? etc... i wonder since my leafs will wear anyways requiring new ones, if i should get factory-spec and keep the AAL/shackles, or go with lifted springs?

 

[dreamr]

Craftsman Tools

OK just kidding, spray the nuts with a bit of penetrating oil, let sit 10 minutes, and try again.
Should help, at least it did on a buddies chevy

 

[sk1er17]

Where are you from?
If you live somewhere near the shore- or that it snows a lot so they salt the streets then the bolts are going to be tough to get off. And yea, a 3/8 drive probably wont do the trick. Run to a home depot and get a breaker bar and 1/2" deep socket and that should do the trick.

using a gum-gutter, WD-40, liquid wrench, etc in excessive amounts will help out a lot too!

good luck

 

[InkWax]

Have you squirted them with PB blaster or WD-40 or something that is designed to help break up the rust??

Just redid my leaf springs this past Sat. and a few squirts wait 10 mins and they came off with no trouble what-so-ever.... Actually same went for all the bolts for shocks/springs....

And yes a 1/2 would probably work a bit better...

 

[izackary]

first...i was using a 1/2" breaker bar, a 1/2-to-3/8 adaptor, and a craftsman (dreamr!) deep socket. as for the nuts themselves, i didn't get a good look, but from what i did see, they didn't look much if any worse than the shock mount bolt, or the shackle bolts, all of which spun off easily.

 

[sk1er17]

i broke numerous of those adapters, they're really not as strong and they are meant to be. Try using a 1/2" deep socket (impact rated sockets are best, craftsman might break in this situation) and some PB-Blaster and you should be ok. I cant forsee them not comming off with this combo because usually a breaker bar works better than impact wrenches in this situation.

 

[dreamr]

lol, I too have broken a few craftsman tools. poor attempt at humor I suppose. When i was a teen helping my brother do this to his ranger. The threads on the u-bolts proved to be part of the problem. The drivers side was easy as could be. the passenger side took hours. It seems he had rolled over entirely to muck rock, and there were a few places where the threads no longer exhisted. we got out the saw and bought new u-bolts

 

[sk1er17]

my best friend becase the Cut-Off tool I had this problem with my friends center bolt on his leaf spring... sawzaw wasnt doing the trick so i went and its only like $30 at homedepot for a Cambell housefield (i think thats it) cut-off tool... thing works great for the price!

Anger helps a lot in these situations to get the job done

 

[izackary]

i'm gonna see if he (my gf's dad whose tools i borrowed) has an impact wrench for his air compressor!

 

[dreamr]

Anger is your friend indeed:frustrate

 

[sk1er17]

Originally posted by izackary
i'm gonna see if he (my gf's dad whose tools i borrowed) has an impact wrench for his air compressor!

Id recommend using the breaker bar before the impact wrench. 1) you give it more torque.. 2) if you broke one of those adapters its on there pretty tough- the last thing you want is a socket breaking with the impact wrench, they dont crack, they explode.

be careful and make sure the sockets you're using are impact hardened.

 

[izackary]

oh there was some anger when the socket broke and sent my fist flying knuckle-first (obviously) into the block supporting my axle jack...almost broke my knuckle too... after that violent frustration would have gotten me nowhere still with 8 nuts and no socket.

Edit:

Sk1er: I broke the socket, not the adaptor. it has 3 cracks down every 2nd corner where the wall is the thinnest.

 

[DeRocha]

I would heat the nuts for 2 minutes with a standard propane torch. The purpose is two fold: Heat will burn off any heavy duty Loctite used in installation and will slightly expand the nut breaking it free from any rust ect..

Heavy duty loctite is designed to permanetly secure a fastener unless heated to 500F.

 

[izackary]

Originally posted by DEROCHA
I would heat the nuts for 2 minutes with a standard propane torch. The purpose is two fold: Heat will burn off any heavy duty Loctite used in installation and will slightly expand the nut breaking it free from any rust ect..

Heavy duty loctite is designed to permanetly secure a fastener unless heated to 500F.

that doesn't weaken the hardware? or would you also recommend buying new hardware anyways?

 

[DeRocha]

I have never had a problem with weakend hardware due to applying heat. You aren't heating the nuts to 2500f only about 500F which is perfectly fine...

 

[izackary]

thanks.

it's a slim possibility i might be at my mom's this weekend, the weekend of our trail run. i'd still like to meet you. (obviously i will up in NH.) if i come down, maybe we could hook up on friday or saturday if you're not too busy? possibly "convoy" on sunday?

 

[G-rigged]

when all else fails get bigger tools. I used a 18mm deepwell greatneck socket (from autozone) 1/2" drive with an impact. I had no problem getting them off. However I had to bring the heat wrench out for the centerbolt for the leaves. After i heated it up i used a 1/2" drive impact to get them off. Man i love that impact.

 

[CodePoet]

When I did my lift I found the breaker bar to be my best friend in conjunction with a 2' section of pipe to help persuade rusty bolts to move. You might have to buy new u-bolts regardless...I did since the added leaf was just thick enough to not allow the nut to go on the way on.

Good luck
CP

 

[Bronco638]

izackary,

"While i'm on the topic of leaf springs, what can you guys tell me about aftermarket lifted spring packs? who sells them? availability? price? quality? durability? etc... i wonder since my leafs will wear anyways requiring new ones, if i should get factory-spec and keep the AAL/shackles, or go with lifted springs?"

I'm in the process of experimenting with F-150 springs to gain lift without having to install shackles. There are two places that I know of where you can purchase leaf springs with 2" of lift built in; Eaton Detroit Spring and ARB/OME. The Eaton spring will run you $419 for the pair. That price does not include shipping. I was quoted $52 for shipping from Detroit to Chicago. Obviously, they're heavy. ARB/OME also makes springs for Explorers. OME36 is the part for my truck ('96) and I was quoted $540 for the pair from my local ARB dealer, shipped to him. He's close enough to go pick them up so I did not ask about drop shipping. As for quality and durability? I cannot comment, I've never purchased either. Based on what I read about ARB/OME, I'd surprised if they weren't worth every penny. Now, if you can sit tight for four to six weeks, I'll be sharing the results of my experiment with F-150 springs. Right now I've spent a total of $60. But, I plan to purchase some OME shocks at $65 each. Still, I'm hoping to keep costs for the entire project below $400 in total. Keep in mind that new (stock) springs are still available from Ford for $180 per side. Remember, gravity & wear will always affect the leaf springs, how you can afford to combat that is the key.

Regards, Dave.