Adding amp and sub to factory system

[hrbib21]

I am trying to add an amp to the factory system on my 99 Explorer Limited. I am rather frustrated at this point. I have the amp wired up properly (power, remote turn-on, ground) but CANNOT get the speaker wiring right. Originally I plugged into the left rear door speaker and used the high level inputs on the amp. Didn't work. Next, I bought a high level to rca converter and that isn't working. From what I understand, the factory amp is part of the head unit. Is this my problem, the amps cancelling each other out? I tried to find the speaker wires going into the rear factory amp and sub (I know this is on the passenger side by the rear wheelwell) but I can't seem to get the torx bolt off for the seatbelt so I can't get the panel off. I do know where the wires are under the seat (the ones that lead to the factory amp/sub in the rear) but I don't know which are the speaker wires. I also know I can get an amp bypass harness but will it work if I am keeping the stock head unit?

HELP! Basically, what's the best way for me to add an amp and sub to the factory system?

 

[aldive]

Question... doesn't it already have a sub? Is it not working?

The best solution is to replace the factory HU with a nice aftermarket one that has all the outputs that you need.

Good luck.....

 

[hrbib21]

I've seen people using the stock head units and adding an amp. I am not buying a new head unit because I want to use the steering wheel controls. The sub in the rear is working but I want more.

 

[aldive]

More? as in better SQ?

 

[hrbib21]

Well, more bass. I guess better sound quality too, if that includes more bass.

 

[aldive]

What you are trying to do will at best be a comprise in all of the above. Sorry, but thats the wey it is.

Good luck....

 

[hrbib21]

How do you mean compromise?

 

[aldive]

The proper way to get a signal is from an output on a HU and that is simply not possible from the POS thing Ford uses.

Do you have the display prolem on your factory HU?

 

[hrbib21]

Actually, I may because when I first start it up the display comes on momentarily and then goes out for a couple minutes. I probably will buy a new HU at some point but I have the amp and sub now and wanted to get it working. I guess I'll have to wait for tax time. This damn wedding I'm paying for is making me poor.

 

[hrbib21]

Off topic, but how's that Apten chip working out for you? Do you have to use premium gas? I'm going to get a chip by this summer (after the wedding) and am curious.

 

[aldive]

Originally posted by hrbib21
Off topic, but how's that Apten chip working out for you? Do you have to use premium gas? I'm going to get a chip by this summer (after the wedding) and am curious.

Its great and yes to high test gas. You will love it.

 

[hrbib21]

OK, so I got it working BUT, not with the 12" Bazooka I have. I got it running with the 6.5" Bazooka tube and an 8" woofer I had laying around, but not with the 12". I have to assume there is something wrong with the woofer? It's a Bazooka EL1204.

Any ideas? Could it be that I don't have enough power going into it? I should at least be able to hear something, right?

 

[Kevex]

Yes, you should at least hear something from it

 

[hrbib21]

Well, I bought a Sony Xplod XS-L1236 12" and it works. I need a better amp as the one I have only puts out 300 max and this sub is 300 RMS so it's not thumping too loud right now. I also have a serious whine coming from it. I have it grounded to the bolt that holds down the rear seat so maybe I need to choose another ground.

 

[M.Scott]

Yes, try a new ground. Most of the factory bolts on the floor have a goo around it that helps with rust and weathering (bolt probably goes through floor). This hurts the metal to metal contact you need. What I did was wire brush an area on the floor behind the rear seat above the spare tire tools/bars. It is hollow there and you can drill a small hole safely. Use a fat screw and a star washer and you will be set. Not too tight or you will strip it. No whines for me.

Also before you buy another amp check your amp gains to make sure they are not too low and check your factory fader to make sure it is set OK. If you are fading more to the front and the amp is connected to the rear speaker leads you will get less signal to amplify.

Oh yeah, the factory head unit rolls off the bass when you get more than 3/4 up the volume dial so when you set your amp gains set the factory volume at no more than 3/4. Then increase you sub amp gains to where it distorts than back off a little.

I did the factory head unit thing with added amps and was very pleased with the results relative to the factory system. I think you will get the improvement you are looking for.

 

[hrbib21]

How did you add your amps, M. Scott? Did you use an RCA converter and what wires did you tap into?

Thanks for the info, btw. I'll redo the ground sometime this week.

 

[M.Scott]

For me it was pretty straight forward but understand I have the simple system - head unit w/ built in amp powering 4 speakers. I did not have a stock outboard amp and sub in rear like you. So what I did was intercept the 8 stock speaker wires behind the head unit, wire nut in a 4 channel line level converter(RCA adapter), then ran a pair RCA's to a four channel amp for the 4 speakers. But before one set of RCAs got to the amp I spliced (use "Y" cable) in a third RCA cable to go to my sub amp. I used the front set to do this as I fade more to the front.

I could be more specific with part numbers and wire colors if you want but it looks like your system is working.

 

[hrbib21]

No, that's great. Thanks for the info. Gives me an idea. I think I'm still going to splice into the speaker wires going into the sub amp in the rear. That is, after I buy a torx socket set this weekend so I can get that seat belt bolt off. This must be THE WORST system to upgrade.

BTW, I redid the ground last night. I just pulled down the rear seat and drilled into the floor just before the hatch area and sanded off the paint like you suggested. NO MORE WHINE! Thanks again for the ideas.

 

[M.Scott]

Glad I could help. I got my Torx set at Walmart. Stanley brand for about $10. Has all the sizes you need. In an auto parts store it will cost that much for one socket

 

[mitchrrm31]

Installation of LOC removal of rear panel

Hello I know this post as been dead while but I too am installing a LOC and I need to know how you removed that rear panel that houses the stock amp and sub so that I can splice into it. Thank you for any responses.