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Adding OEM fog lights to 2020 Explorer

Dennis J.A.A.

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That is why I have repeatedly mentioned to avoid the Ford parts site.

Peter
Look on page 150-5 top left hand side. C126 inline Male is #14290 and female is 13A323 NOBODY can find that set!
Even though it is in their book it does not exist.
 



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peterk9

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Look on page 150-5 top left hand side. C126 inline Male is #14290 and female is 13A323 NOBODY can find that set!
Even though it is in their book it does not exist.
Are you referring to a manual of some kind? I don't have that if you are.
The fordparts site comes up with 1780 results for 14290.

Peter
 






Dennis J.A.A.

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I used ForScan to enable fog lights, I now have a green foglight icon on dash when fog lights are turned on. Unfortunately that's the only thing that does light up. The fog lights do not turn on... My next step is to try and find as bulit with fog lights and compare the settings after spending hours on the Motocraft site following wiring diagrams it seems the BCM module is either missing the FET's or they are disabled and need to be changed in the as built section which requires a known address. IPC BCM settings have been done via enable
Page 86-1 shows that you need to cut some jumpers. Look for DC05 (Don't ask because I haven't the foggiest idea what that is) the wire to cut is the BU-GN . They also show another DC05 with the same BU-GN wire that shorts out to ground.

IMG_1219.JPG IMG_1220.JPG
 






Dennis J.A.A.

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Are you referring to a manual of some kind? I don't have that if you are.
The fordparts site comes up with 1780 results for 14290.

Peter
Yes the electrical book
 






nekkidhillbilly

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There is enough wires in the 20 pin connector located on the fender that connects to the other side under the driver's fender. When the weather is nice I need someone sitting in the driver's seat to turn the ignition switch on and off to test the large connector that I will have pictured below. The 10 pin connector under the drivers fender only has two wires going towards the BJB which is connected to the thermostat on the center of the grill BUT that harness has multiple wires in it with only the two connected. This tells me that this harness will accommodate the side sensors, and fogs and whatever else goes on a fully loaded Explorer.
What I have planned is to dig into that harness and look for the YE-OR as the hot and the BN as the ground. and hook that into the BC3Z-15A211-A which is the wiring assembly; fog lights that has the connectors that plug into the light itself. In the center of this fog light harness is a 4 pin connector which I can not find the opposite end. I tried getting a 4 pin male & female from Ford and they wanted over $125.00. There are 4 connectors on pigtails that they sell for trailers (see below) for $8.00 a pair which does exactly the same thing which I got.
Ford has asinine priced on simple stuff.

View attachment 428241 View attachment 428243
the wire he tapped was under the dash near the fuse panel so idk? i wonder if he would respond to a email possibly?
 






Dennis J.A.A.

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the wire he tapped was under the dash near the fuse panel so idk? i wonder if he would respond to a email possibly?
Did I answer any questions YOU might have had?
 






nekkidhillbilly

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Did I answer any questions YOU might have had?
yeah so far im following you to see where you get until mine comes in. ive poured over the video as well but he is just way to hard for me to understand.
 






Dennis J.A.A.

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yeah so far im following you to see where you get until mine comes in. ive poured over the video as well but he is just way to hard for me to understand.
Me too!
>>OK the first thing you need to do is to remove the Setina push bar and then the front bumper. It took me a long time because of the winter weather and on top of that I am trying to work with a crushed disc and two fractured vertebra. But enough of me.
>>The hardest part, I had the local shop do, which is reaching up inside and removing the 3 bolts on each side. They were one step ahead of me by lifting the vehicle and removing both front tires. He made it look so easy. I had all the screws out that I could already which made his job easier. >>OK! Next, get some help that day so that two people are working on this. One actually doing the work and the other to help move the front end when off. Probably the best thing is to have a moving blanket in front so that you can set it down for a short until you know where you will be doing all the work. I had help bringing the front end down into the basement very slowly so that I wouldn't put a scratch on it anywhere.
>>To remove the bezels look at them closly with a flashlight and carefully push the large tab so that it gets unhooked from the main piece. I think there was like 7 of them tabs. Just work slowly and take your time with each one.
>>Obviously, there will not be any wires going from the spot that you will be putting the lights. The connectors that you see when you remove the front end will be for police lighting OR for the sensors that sense a vehicle is close to you in traffic.
>>When you put the new light fixture on it is REALLY easy and you won't be swearing UNTIL you have all the tabs clipped in and now you are ready to fasten down the fixture. I used bolts with the nuts that have the plastic inside also known as a nyloc nut and I also used blue Locktight. The very top one would NOT cooperate with me. Normally I do NOT drink but this one almost opened a can! What I did was to get my soldering iron and cut into the plastic so that I could work on it. Had to do the same on the other side also.
>>After that then it is just the wiring. I have OCD and I like things to look professional even if it is just for me. Tomorrow I will go out and take pictures for you. Right now it is 23:30 and I have a meeting at 07:00.
Copy this on something like Notebook or Word so you can reference it. We will get together tomorrow with pics.
I hope you understood what I am talking about so far. Don't be scared we will work together on this.

s-l1605.jpg IMG_1005.JPG IMG_1118.JPG
 






nekkidhillbilly

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Me too!
>>OK the first thing you need to do is to remove the Setina push bar and then the front bumper. It took me a long time because of the winter weather and on top of that I am trying to work with a crushed disc and two fractured vertebra. But enough of me.
>>The hardest part, I had the local shop do, which is reaching up inside and removing the 3 bolts on each side. They were one step ahead of me by lifting the vehicle and removing both front tires. He made it look so easy. I had all the screws out that I could already which made his job easier. >>OK! Next, get some help that day so that two people are working on this. One actually doing the work and the other to help move the front end when off. Probably the best thing is to have a moving blanket in front so that you can set it down for a short until you know where you will be doing all the work. I had help bringing the front end down into the basement very slowly so that I wouldn't put a scratch on it anywhere.
>>To remove the bezels look at them closly with a flashlight and carefully push the large tab so that it gets unhooked from the main piece. I think there was like 7 of them tabs. Just work slowly and take your time with each one.
>>Obviously, there will not be any wires going from the spot that you will be putting the lights. The connectors that you see when you remove the front end will be for police lighting OR for the sensors that sense a vehicle is close to you in traffic.
>>When you put the new light fixture on it is REALLY easy and you won't be swearing UNTIL you have all the tabs clipped in and now you are ready to fasten down the fixture. I used bolts with the nuts that have the plastic inside also known as a nyloc nut and I also used blue Locktight. The very top one would NOT cooperate with me. Normally I do NOT drink but this one almost opened a can! What I did was to get my soldering iron and cut into the plastic so that I could work on it. Had to do the same on the other side also.
>>After that then it is just the wiring. I have OCD and I like things to look professional even if it is just for me. Tomorrow I will go out and take pictures for you. Right now it is 23:30 and I have a meeting at 07:00.
Copy this on something like Notebook or Word so you can reference it. We will get together tomorrow with pics.
I hope you understood what I am talking about so far. Don't be scared we will work together on this.

View attachment 428282 View attachment 428283 View attachment 428284
mine is still not built til end of the month
 






Dennis J.A.A.

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mine is still not built til end of the month
OH! You are getting a NEW vehicle?
Just tell them you want the fog lights in then. You won't have to BS around with all the work involved.
I just took all kinds of pics and I was describing what all is involved up to the point I have completed.
Obviously, you won't need this then.
Trust me tell them to do it. It will save you on a LOT of aggravation and beer - and I never used to drink! LOL
 






Dennis J.A.A.

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OH! You are getting a NEW vehicle?
Just tell them you want the fog lights in then. You won't have to BS around with all the work involved.
I just took all kinds of pics and I was describing what all is involved up to the point I have completed.
Obviously, you won't need this then.
Trust me tell them to do it. It will save you on a LOT of aggravation and beer - and I never used to drink! LOL
If anyone is following I will continue with pictures. I believe visual descriptions work for most people. OK! Well, I know it works well for me!
At this point we had the bezels removed by bending the shark fins PIC#4 and popping them out. The light fixtures installed and the wiring harness for the fog lamps is BC3Z-15A211-A. PIC#1 is the light fixture showing the 3 bolts I installed with Nyloc nuts. Most people get stumped at this point because there is nothing to hook up to after this.. The harness looks like a 5' wire with connections at each end that hook up to the bulb BUT they are connected to another wire in the middle that connects to power. Here is where everything gets nuts.
PIC#2 shows the male 20 pin connector on the fender on the driver's side. Looking at this connector you saw all kinds of wires. I took the liberty of removing the 20 pin harness completely to find that only 2 wires are actually connected. They are yellow (Y) and yellow-green (Y-G). They go to the middle of the grill as seen in PIC#6 and connect to the thermometer for outside temperature.
I stripped the plastic coil completely off and away from all the wires as seen in Pic#2 . I then cut one yellow and one black looped wires from the 20 pin connector end and put in my own yellow and black wire all the way to the end of the harness. I cut the 4 pin connector off from the fog light harness and I had a BK-YE & a BK that went to this connector. I hooked up the black to black (BK) [ground or negative] then the yellow to the black-yellow (BK-YE) [hot or positive]. This now gives me a straight run from my lights to the 20 pin connector.
Before you go any further it might be good to go to Ford (Did I type that?) and pick up the correct pins that go to the female end under the fender. Pick up a few extra to learn how to connect the wires. This way when you make a mistake you don't have to go back. I am not at the point of running those wires at this point. Amazon has the key sets for just a few bucks that you can add to your tool collection: Amazon product
If you look at Pic#7 I have 4 LED lights on the grill that come on when the key is on. I will be doing a relay/power hook up for this even though it doesn't require much power. It will be like additional daytime running lights (DRL) that is IF the DRL work with FORScan.
If you need help I'll try to help.

1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg 7.jpg
 






nekkidhillbilly

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OH! You are getting a NEW vehicle?
Just tell them you want the fog lights in then. You won't have to BS around with all the work involved.
I just took all kinds of pics and I was describing what all is involved up to the point I have completed.
Obviously, you won't need this then.
Trust me tell them to do it. It will save you on a LOT of aggravation and beer - and I never used to drink! LOL


its part of a 202a equipment package thats over 2k more and full of junk i dont want besides the fogs. if i could just add them i would.
 






Dennis J.A.A.

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its part of a 202a equipment package thats over 2k more and full of junk i dont want besides the fogs. if i could just add them i would.
Oh I see! OK
 






nekkidhillbilly

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correction its 3500 dollars for fogs a heated steering wheel remote keyless and the keypad thing some kind of active x seating and a 8 way power seat. of that i might use the fogs and remote keyless entry. the fogs if i cant add them with the oem switch ive got another idea brewing as i am going to stick a lightbar in the opening in the front bumper too so i will have a switch hidden somewhere. i cross that road when i get there. also does anyone have info how to add remote keyless? i pretty sure it was a simple process.
 












Sea_Ray

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If you're mixing model years you're wasting time nothing is close to a 2017 & 2020 + other than the fog lamps are in front and the bumper skin must be removed.
 






Dennis J.A.A.

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If you're mixing model years you're wasting time nothing is close to a 2017 & 2020 + other than the fog lamps are in front and the bumper skin must be removed.
I have a 2017 PIU
I have seen PIUs with fog lights
So far I have the fog lights installed
I just need to know where these wires need to be hooked up to and if nobody knows then I will just put a fuse & a relay in the fuse box under the hood but I would really like to have the dash show that the fogs lights are on when I hit the switch.
 






Sea_Ray

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I have a 2017 PIU
I have seen PIUs with fog lights
So far I have the fog lights installed
I just need to know where these wires need to be hooked up to and if nobody knows then I will just put a fuse & a relay in the fuse box under the hood but I would really like to have the dash show that the fogs lights are on when I hit the switch.
I used two relays to isolate my wiring from the BCM module on my 2020
I tapped into the parking lamp harness at the plug ...used that as the relay trigger....which then feed another relay connected to battery feed to fuse box under hood. After farting around for about a year I settled for just getting the GD lights to come on with parking and or Headlights. I had plans to install a small lighted micro switch in the headlight switch but never got around before dumping it for 2021 Limited with a real engine 3.3
I wasted about $1000 and another $2000 in man hours trying to make it factory. I took it to Ford to have them do it and still couldn't get it to work. I posted this before.


Side comment regarding the missing rear end bolt saga. Update your pole to include 3.3 seeing how it is part of the recall.
 






nekkidhillbilly

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i email they guy that got them active he said he didnt do anything but activate that one block in forscan and install the lights wiring and switch. nothing was tapped. so its block 47 and a different code in his video he shows what to change. have you guys tried that yet on yours?
 



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nekkidhillbilly

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also the timberline has the fog button and another button for aux so i wonder if they both will activate when the thats enabled or there is another block to enable in them. i would like to add a light bar in the grill opening and use the aux light switch from a timberline if that does work.
 






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