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adjust your TPS (another free hp mod)

I just cleaned the MAF and Throttle body, did the TPS mod(was .89), Throttle cable mod. The Ex seems to be more responsive and have more snap, and the pinging is gone!! Excellent tips thank you.
 



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BBFTD.
I thought this was/is a good thread to bring back up.
I was looking for a thread for some free mods & this came up.
I forgot all about the TPS deal. This reminded me to do it. Even though I now get 280MTT( miles to tank) & darn near instant throttle response.
I still have a lumpy idle. I know the CANP valve needs replacing which I have here & am doing in a few minutes.
I though i'd go out & check to see what my V reading was.
Well... on the G w/ RS it was 5.02
G w/WS it was -4.01...yikes
I went to test the wires again to make sure the ground was OK & the FRIGGIN TEST LEADS melted. I was like WTF? The wires to the DVOM actually started to melt. I went to test the bat voltage & the whole damn thing melted( battery melted inside the case & it started smoking, then the metal tips stuck to the battery)...LOL
SO looks like i'm off to Sears to get another.

Just thought i'd bump this for all the newer folk around here. Because there are still ALOT of idle threads being brought up. But no one mentions to do this( atleast I havent seen it until I did a search for free mods) anymore.
 






i just tested mine, got right where it should be
 






1.5 years later and I still think this "mod" is a complete waste of time. If it's off, go buy a new one. For $35.00, I don't know why anyone would waste their time drilling.
 






WillieTD said:
1.5 years later and I still think this "mod" is a complete waste of time. If it's off, go buy a new one. For $35.00, I don't know why anyone would waste their time drilling.
1) I already have the sensor
2) I already have the drill & bit
3)I already have the mutlimeter

Why spend $35 when you don't have to? That right there is a tank full of 87 octane gas ;)
 






A waste?

WillieTD said:
1.5 years later and I still think this "mod" is a complete waste of time. If it's off, go buy a new one. For $35.00, I don't know why anyone would waste their time drilling.

Because if they go out and spend $35 for a new one it may be off also.

New ones can be off also, it's not a mod really rather a tuning tip, relate it to gapping your spark plugs. Same idea. The plugs work out of the box sure, but they work better when they are gapped for use in a specific engine.

No waste of time in my view. Buying a new one for $35 IS a waste of money and time to replace a good part which just needs to be adjusted.
 






Hi everyone I am new to the forum, well as far as posting I am. I've been off and on for a while now since I bought my gen 1 93 4x4.

Gonna try this mod this weekend. At lunch checked the voltage and it was 1.3.

I get really crappy mileage. (14) and drive 25 miles one way to work.

The throttle body is down right nasty. Looked up inside it while spraying down with Deep Creep and I'm afraid nothing short of a complete mechanic cleaning is going to do anything. 200k miles on it and no cleaning ever as far as I know.

gonna try the throttle cable mod, the sensor mod, clean the MAF sensor, and toying with the seafoam into the vacume tree empty connection but not sure if I should just pay the $90 for a injection cleaning that includes the throttle body.

I'm not a mechanic so I'm a little nervous about trying the seafoam thing.
 






Dang, I'd be happy with 14, is that in town or highway?
 






Before actually drilling the holes, check to see if loosening the bolts and twisting the tps gives you the value 0.96 + or - 0.03. If so, your golden and leave it. Otherwise, try filing one side of the holes using a small round file or a triangle file and that should get you where you need to be.
 






Scott---- That is Highway only.

Well I did the adjustment and I have some issues. I could only get it down to 1.21.

The sensor looks completely different than the one shown in the pick at the beginning of the thread. To me it looked like a flat screwdriver head coming out of the TB and the sensor had a spring loaded slot that would only rotate so far and then stop. It stopped at the 1.2. I didn't have the screws in place and rotated it as far as it would go and still no good.

I can't tell yet if the 1.2 helped or not. Still pinging like a mutha on lower than premium. Can't even pull my boat up a slight hill on the highway and it is a 14ft john boat with a 25hp motor on it.

The TB is just eat up with gunk in it. I've tried spraying the Deep Creep into it and letting is set but I can't tell if it is doing any good.

Would love to just take it off and let it soak in something but not sure I want to fool around with it. Seriously thinking about the sea-foam but scared if I hydro lock it will it screw it up or just keep trying to crank it?

Thanks for the help for this newbie.
 






Brett F. said:
Scott---- That is Highway only.

Well I did the adjustment and I have some issues. I could only get it down to 1.21.

The sensor looks completely different than the one shown in the pick at the beginning of the thread. To me it looked like a flat screwdriver head coming out of the TB and the sensor had a spring loaded slot that would only rotate so far and then stop. It stopped at the 1.2. I didn't have the screws in place and rotated it as far as it would go and still no good.

What was the value BEFORE you undid the screws? I did not think that you could get muck over 1.16 or so as a TOP value, (I was able to get DOWN to 0.63 as I was playing with it.)
 






It was 1.38 before the adjustment. I wonder if the sensor is bad to be so high and barely adjustable?

Hmm might just change it out.
 












That is it, and you have a OHV.
 






Brett F. said:
It was 1.38 before the adjustment. I wonder if the sensor is bad to be so high and barely adjustable?

Hmm might just change it out.
Yes, it does sound as if your sensor is bad. Or, could have been a manufacturing error (No, those things never happen in the US, do they?) Or, you can try removing the screws and then rotating the unit to see where it is positioned when you get near the recommended 0.96 range. You might get lucky and have one screw hole line up.
 






Tried that and no good. Thanks to 13thcurve I now know I have the OHV. Mine is the exact same.

Guess I'll try a new sensor.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 






Had to buy a DMM anyway for the airplane stuff, and bumped into this thread when troubleshooting some other stuff. Got all excited and tapped my wires....damn. .961V the way I bought it. Close enough for my purposes. :D
 






The more I read, the more skeptical I become of the usefulness of this mod on any OBD-II-equipped vehicle.

I stumbled upon this info the other day. If I read this correctly, the engine will re-learn the idle voltage setting regardless of where you set it..... no?


Idle Speed Control Closed Throttle Determination
One of the fundamental criteria for entering rpm control is an indication of closed throttle. Throttle mode is always calculated to the lowest learned throttle position (TP) voltage seen since engine start. This lowest learned value is called "ratch," since the software acts like a one-way ratch. The ratch value (voltage) is displayed as the TPREL PID. The ratch value is relearned after every engine start. Ratch will learn the lowest, steady TP voltage seen after the engine starts. In some cases, ratch can learn higher values of TP. The time to learn the higher values is significantly longer than the time to learn the lower values. The brakes must also be applied to learn the longer values.

All PCM functions are done using this ratch voltage, including idle speed control. The PCM goes into closed throttle mode when the TP voltage is at the ratch (TPREL PID) value. Increase in TP voltage, normally less than 0.05 volts, will put the PCM in part throttle mode. Throttle mode can be viewed by looking at the TP MODE PID. With the throttle closed, the PID must read C/T (closed throttle). Slightly corrupt values of ratch can prevent the PCM from entering closed throttle mode. An incorrect part throttle indication at idle will prevent entry into closed throttle rpm control, and could result in a high idle. Ratch can be corrupted by a throttle position sensor or circuit that "drops out" or is noisy, or by loose/worn throttle plates that close tight during a decel and spring back at a normal engine vacuum.

What's everyone else think?
 






I also found this. If I read it correctly, the PCM only sees three modes from the TPS: Closed (set by the ratch voltage) part throttle, and Wide Open Throttle.

Throttle Position Sensor
The throttle position (TP) sensor (Figure 40) is a rotary potentiometer sensor that provides a signal to the PCM that is linearly proportional to the throttle plate/shaft position. The sensor housing has a three-blade electrical connector that may be gold plated. The gold plating increases corrosion resistance on terminals and increases connector durability. The TP sensor is mounted on the throttle body. As the TP sensor is rotated by the throttle shaft, four operating conditions are determined by the PCM from the TP. Those conditions are closed throttle (includes idle or deceleration), part throttle (includes cruise or moderate acceleration), wide open throttle (includes maximum acceleration or de-choke on crank), and throttle angle rate.

no?

-Joe
 



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i think all that information actaully supports the TPS mod. if your moving you lowest voltage reading to .96, then its definatly going to start learning .96v compared to .95v. Since this mod is really not about performance but "how far you physically have to push the gas petal"

JamesT initiated it so you dont actually have to push the gas petal as far down as you usually do to get the same effect. :D
 






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