Advice on clear coating hood. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Advice on clear coating hood.

nevrsumr22

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City, State
Bel Air, MD
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLT 4x4
My hood on my truck is getting that cloudy look to it so I'm going to attempt to spray clear it myself. It just started this summer after a wax so I don't think the paint is affected yet.

From doing a lot of reading and watching a few youtube videos I'm going to start with a rubbing compound to get the surface ready. Clean all that off then apply a coat of clear. Wet sand that depending on how many bumps up to 2000 grit then apply again. Wet sand to 2000 again then rubbing compound to polish it off.

Does this sound ok? I might practice on my gas grill first.
 



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Does this sound ok?

To be blunt (and hopefully helpful), no. You need to sand the surface to give the paint something to bite onto. You also need to remove the imperfection (hazing) before painting over it...otherwise you will just seal the unpleasantness under a nice, clear, protective layer. Compounding might be enough to get through the hazing, but you will still need to sand, so save yourself the trouble.

Definitely practice on something else, first. Do you have the proper equipment to spray automotive paint? From the way I am reading your post, you will probably be best served to shop around and have a shop do it for you. It should not cost a whole lot, honestly.

Can you post pictures?
 






Most of the clears I've applied need to be done within a specific timeframe, shortly after the base coat (color) is sprayed. I'm curious as to what product your using.

Good luck.
 






This guy inspired me. Just OTC spray. This would be fine with me. My truck has dings and scrapes all over it so it's not a baby anymore but the dull hood makes it look terrible. At least I could shine it up before.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2FITO4ZrZM
 

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This guy inspired me. Just OTC spray. This would be fine with me. My truck has dings and scrapes all over it so it's not a baby anymore but the dull hood makes it look terrible. At least I could shine it up before.

If it is just dull, you can buff it to a shine without any painting.
 






If it is just dull, you can buff it to a shine without any painting.

Should I use rubbing or polishing compound? I really worked it by hand with regular wax to fix it. Actually like I said waxing it is what made it happen. Should I use an orbital buffer or the circular kind?
 






Should I use rubbing or polishing compound? I really worked it by hand with regular wax to fix it. Actually like I said waxing it is what made it happen. Should I use an orbital buffer or the circular kind?

You created a haze on your hood from wax? How?

Do you have an orbital buffer, and are you proficient with using it?
 






You created a haze on your hood from wax? How?

Do you have an orbital buffer, and are you proficient with using it?

I really think it's failing. My roof has spots on it like these. I'm not sure the wax did it but that is when I noticed it didn't shine. I thought maybe the wax took off the last shine layer when I took off the wax or something I can't be sure.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20411

I think I might try to clear it anyway. I don't think I can bring it back because I really was working a small area with wax and it wouldn't sine at all. What I'm worried about is that I will clear over the faded clear and it will just be shine on top of dull.
 






I really think it's failing. My roof has spots on it like these. I'm not sure the wax did it but that is when I noticed it didn't shine. I thought maybe the wax took off the last shine layer when I took off the wax or something I can't be sure.
I think there is a lot of confusion here, and you did not tell me if you are familiar with buffing. Wax does not take anything off...it adds a protective and reflective layer to the paint, nothing more.

I think I might try to clear it anyway. I don't think I can bring it back because I really was working a small area with wax and it wouldn't sine at all. What I'm worried about is that I will clear over the faded clear and it will just be shine on top of dull.
Knock yourself out. Please do a lot more homework before you tackle this...it sounds like will need tons more knowledge on your side to accomplish this successfully.
 






I think there is a lot of confusion here, and you did not tell me if you are familiar with buffing. Wax does not take anything off...it adds a protective and reflective layer to the paint, nothing more.



I'm not sure if I know what familiar with buffing means. Way back when I used to live with my parents I would use their buffer (craftsman orbital) on my car to apply and take wax off with but not sure if that makes me proficient with this job.


Knock yourself out. Please do a lot more homework before you tackle this...it sounds like will need tons more knowledge on your side to accomplish this successfully.

That's what I'm here for.
 






Chances are that your clear coat is failing. At least the surface. When you waxed it you filled in the rough surface with wax making it cloudy. That'll be tough to buff out. Best bet might be to use a mild rubbing compound and some elbow grease to smooth out the clear then rewax.
 






Chances are that your clear coat is failing. At least the surface. When you waxed it you filled in the rough surface with wax making it cloudy. That'll be tough to buff out. Best bet might be to use a mild rubbing compound and some elbow grease to smooth out the clear then rewax.

Thanks I guess I can start with that. Makes sense about the wax. When I tried to take it off the hood it felt like it was stuck to it and then it was cloudy.
 






The Craftsman is merely a wax spreader. If you're going to properly bring it back, you're going to need at the very least a good DA, like a Porter Cable, or the Meguiars G110 (same unit) unless you want to tackle it by hand which is entirely possible.

You might be able to get it back with some Ultimate Compound, see my thread on Wedgie, go to post #94, page 5. CLICK ME

You've got a good start if you're linking the Meguiar's page, I would do some homework over there and give it a shot. Even if you clear, you're going to have to wetsand and buff out with the same procedures, so you might as well give it a shot buffing out first.

There are more pics of more work done with UC on my truck later in that post linked above. You can also work UC by hand to try it first, and you can probably get it buffed out by hand if you want, will just take longer.
 






IMO, if you're not familiar with buffing out a compromised layer of paint then spend a few dollars on a detailer, who will likely be able to salvage the finish.

A pro will most likely use a combination of compounds / glazes that are available through auto body supply shops and not the typical retail outlets. Then there's the different buffing pads....foam, cotton, wool etc.....and the experience to know the line between raising the finish as opposed to burn through.
 






Very true, Rick. It's easy to pop out advice when you've been doing it forever, and don't consider it to be a big deal, but different if you're reading it and have never done it before. Good point... If you find a detailer, I'd bet you'd have it fixed for less than the cost of the DA...

Might even post up on the Meguiar's forum for a detailer in your area...
 






Joe, you understand my point completely.

I'm the consummate DIYer, but successfully buffing large areas (especially in a dark color) has always eluded me. You just need to do it often, with the right materials and direction...IMO. In fact, if dealing with a failed clearcoat, you may need to color sand before going to any type of compound.

I'd also check Craigslist for detailers / body techs / painters. Many talented Full-time guys do side work at your house for very reasonable prices. If you don't find one in your area then post an ad looking for one.
 






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