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Ford Explorer Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
The vac line needs to be plugged with either a small bolt (should of been provided) or fill it with JB weld or similiar hardner. The bolts can work loose, fall out causing a vac leak. The other line just read air temp...from the lower induction system, I completley removed all that...but you can just tuck the line up out of the way some where too. Personaly, I was not satisfied with the open air filter sucking hot air right off the engine, so I picked up an extra air box at a Junkyard, modified the box by cutting away enough for the KKM to fit down inside. This did two things...1st, I was able to semi-enclose the filter protecting it from engine heat and provided forced induction via 3" hose. 2nd it left the bi-metal sensor...allowing me to continue using the vac line. Hope this helps...if you just plug the line with something you'll be fine!
If ya plugged the line your fine, just remember if you ever start sucking air or getting really poor performance, the first thing to check would be to make sure the bolt/line is still plugged.
No pics of my air box, maybe I'll try and take a few, but just imagine the airbox in original position...lay your intake tube w/KKM air filter down on top, mark it, cut it, and your done. On the bottom half of the airbox is a semi-circle or half moon shaped cut out for the filter to set down in. On the top half of the airbox...what is left is the back (w/bimetal sensor) and sidewall on engine side...forming sort of L shape protective barrier around the KKM filter; the rest is cut away.
lay your intake tube w/KKM air filter down on top, mark it, cut it, and your done. On the bottom half of the airbox is a semi-circle or half moon shaped cut out for the filter to set down in. On the top half of the airbox...what is left is the back (w/bimetal sensor) and sidewall on engine side...forming sort of L shape protective barrier around the KKM filter; the rest is cut away.
I know it's a little hard to picture without a picture but...no where near as much as if the open air filter was just 'open' in the engine bay. Think of it like a K&N FIPK system with their heat shield around the filter. The cut airbox acts in similar manner. The KKM filter is enclosed on bottom, and all sides...except top. With the hood closed the top is also pretty much protected from the engine bay as well. Still even with just bottom and sides surrounding KKM, your eliminating alot of engine heat. Of course this really does nothing unless you introduce cooler outside air into the equation. This is where the forced induction comes in to play. On the bottom half of the airbox where the OEM duct use to be...I have attached a 3" hose which runs down to a small scoop directly below my front bumper. Cold air travels up 3" hose and into the box directly below where my KKM filter sits.
Alot guys here have come up with many ingenious ways of introducing cold air to the KKM, just do a search...this was just my solution to the heat problem. I'll try and snap some pics..and post them tomorrow.