Aftermarket Fogs Help

[uberninja]

Long time visitor, first time poster! I can't tell you guys how many times I've come here looking for help and found exactly what I needed. Hopefully I'm posting in the right section! (Sorry if I messed up!)

On to my question, I'm looking to install some aftermarket fogs and mount them below the front bumper but in front of the valence. My biggest concern, is trying to find what lights are appropriate to mount down below without breaking the bank for OEM fogs. Just looking to add some extra light and some flair to an otherwise stock XLT!

I know the differences between the types of lights, just not the legality, which is another aspect of my question. I'm currently looking at a pair of 55w driving lights, because I love the shape and grills. I know driving lights are supposed to come on only with your high-beams. Could you run, say a 35w bulb, mount them low, angle them down and use them for fogs? Or do I have to buy actual fog lamps. My X will be in Wisconsin for the next couple of months if state legislation matters. I know I'm allowed to have "fog or inclement weather lamps", but curious if that means what the box says, how the mounted lights are being used, or if its based on the bulbs.

If anyone's got picture of their fogs mounted below I'd love to see them!

Thanks in advance for any and all advice in advance!

 

[timtimtimajim]

I didn't mount mine below the bumper, instead I mounted them inside the grille.

I used a set of KC 26 series lights which are 55w. They came with three sets of lenses: driving, clear fog and amber fog. I use the driving lenses on them and use them with my low beams anytime I drive at night. I aimed them a little lower in order not to blind oncoming traffic but not too low so that I still get good distance out of them.

If you are mounting them low and aim them low you could still use the 55w bulbs no problem.

Now that does depend on state laws. For example, in Colorado I'm allowed 4 forward facing lights at night (not including amber marking lights) the lights have to be DOT approved and aimed properly.

Check into what the state of Wisconsin allows, but I would imagine you would be fine running 55w driving lights.

 

[uberninja]

Oh nice! I think the hardest part will be finding DOT approved lighting without breaking the bank. (Just about to graduate from college). I was looking at cheap Blazers for the time being.

I like the placement, I may consider something similar but on the lowest level. I like that it comes with so many different lenses, it may actually be the route I go later! Did you remove the grill for install? Was it difficult to mount the bracket in it?

Great X by the way!

 

[96EXXLTinCO]

I can't add anything more to the legality of lights in your state, TimTim nailed it for ours. 4 forward facing lights no more than 55w each. I run the cheap walmart lights, about $24 for the set with wiring and switch and everything. They started out on my 96:

Bolted them to the backside of the bumper to existing holes with 2 L brackets from the hardware store. (I needed mine up out of the way, as you can see I removed the plastic lower valance off the bumper as well).

Then once I got the 94 they moved over to it. This time though I used the 2 angle brackets from the backside of the front bumper, bolted back through the frame, and used existing holes on those to bolt the lights to:

Check your local laws closely and as long as they allow something similar to colorado's laws, you should be fine as long as you don't aim them too high. I've been running theses for years with zero problems from anyone.

 

[timtimtimajim]

Oh nice! I think the hardest part will be finding DOT approved lighting without breaking the bank. (Just about to graduate from college). I was looking at cheap Blazers for the time being.

I like the placement, I may consider something similar but on the lowest level. I like that it comes with so many different lenses, it may actually be the route I go later! Did you remove the grill for install? Was it difficult to mount the bracket in it?

Great X by the way!

You'd be surprised, there are actually a lot of cheap lights that are DOT approved. I feel you on the college thing though, so much money.

I did remove the grille to put them in, which isn't too hard. Just two screws and two clips. I actually didn't mount them to the grille itself. They are mounted to the metal below the grille, like so.

Mounting them in the lower section of the grille may be a bit easier though because you may not need brackets like the ones I used.

[MENTION=270493]96EXXLTinCO[/MENTION] really like both of your Explorers by the way.

 

[Jason94sport]

DOT approved??:
Yeah just stick some lights you like on there & aim them to not blind people & you should be fine.

 

[Rhett]

Oh nice! I think the hardest part will be finding DOT approved lighting without breaking the bank. (Just about to graduate from college). I was looking at cheap Blazers for the time being.

I run those (cheap Blazer fogs) mounted to my grill guard as you can see from my avatar pic. They are really not very good, but, they're worry-free if I break one in the woods, and I like the yellow with my cayman green Explorer.

I really like the KC26's on timtim's. You can really tell that you get what you pay for with the connectors. I had to solder and heat-shrink my Blazers because the kit didn't have enough wire for my mounting, and I didn't like the junky connectors it had.

Also, the Blazer kit's wires are thin gauge. Eventually these thin wires will corrode on the inside and not carry enough current to push the relay and/or turn on the bulbs, so you may consider installing thicker gauge wire when you do it.

 

[uberninja]

I run those (cheap Blazer fogs) mounted to my grill guard as you can see from my avatar pic. They are really not very good, but, they're worry-free if I break one in the woods, and I like the yellow with my cayman green Explorer.

I really like the KC26's on timtim's. You can really tell that you get what you pay for with the connectors. I had to solder and heat-shrink my Blazers because the kit didn't have enough wire for my mounting, and I didn't like the junky connectors it had.

Also, the Blazer kit's wires are thin gauge. Eventually these thin wires will corrode on the inside and not carry enough current to push the relay and/or turn on the bulbs, so you may consider installing thicker gauge wire when you do it.

Good to know, I found some wiring kits with thicker gauges just to alleviate the headaches of trying to assemble all the materials individually and most run about $10-15. I'll start with the Blazers and run 100W white bulbs. Certainly some extra light is better than none right? Worst case scenario, I mount them on the roof for fun, maybe see if I can get the wires to tuck through the sunroof and activate with the auto mirror buttons.

 

[96EXXLTinCO]

Thanks [MENTION=257666]timtimtimajim[/MENTION] I wish the 94 had a shine like yours though!! And I like that console you built for your radio. I actually spent a few days running trails off Gold Camp last fall. I do trail write ups for a new website and Mt. Rosa was one of the ones I did. Here's a link to it if you wanna check it out. Mt. Rosa write-up

 

[timtimtimajim]

[MENTION=270493]96EXXLTinCO[/MENTION] Thanks! It's been garaged pretty much it's whole life so it's in pretty good shape. It does have some scratches here and there, and the paint on the hood has tree sap stains. But from a distance you can't really see any of that.

Nice writeup! Bookmarked that website for future reference.

 

[kbsmith_48]

I can't help you with lights in the location you wanted but I can show you my old and new setup for lights in the bottom of the grille. Just to give you an idea of what they would look like.

This is the old setup with two driving lights in the lower corners of the grille. I had to trim the inside flange of the grille a little to get this setup to work, they were mounted in two holes that were located in the center of the body piece under the grille.

This is the new setup. I put a superbrightleds amber/white lightbar in place of the driving lights and threw an aftermarket grille on. This could be used with the factory one, but would require major trimming.

 

[uberninja]

Greetings all, I know its been a while but I'm here to give an update on this project. It did happen and I've got the pics to prove it.I used a pair of blazer fog lamps I found at Autozone for around $20. The bracket positioned them perfectly in front of the valence, and the gaps underneath the bumper provided enough room to route wires through without them being visible.They're 55W Driving lights but I have them positioned and wired in as fogs. My X had the factory harness and switch for the fog lamps. Works perfectly! Haven't been pulled over yet, but I need to run the higher output alternator to better accommodate the higher current draw. Next project is to create a mesh screen for them, or 3D print a cover for them.

Thanks for the ideas all!

Here is a little before and after! First pic is the day she came home in April with 183K miles. Dust covers weren't reinstalled just yet but they are now!

 

[WormsExplorer]

She looks very clean.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I need to run the higher output alternator to better accommodate the higher current draw.

Just an FYI, you likely don't need the higher output alternator. I have old PAR style lights on the roof that have 2x 100-watt elements each for a total of 400 watts being drawn. I can run these with high beams and have no problem. The stock alternator can handle it fine. There's a slight dip when you flick the switch but that's normal as the alternator compensates for the load. That said, if you find a higher output alternator in a junkyard, go for it!

 

[Rhett]

If the draw is a concern, a 93-94 Explorer Limited alternator (130 amp) is a direct bolt-on. I did that mod, but probably didn't have to no more than my accessories draw. I did it because it was a simple easy upgrade and left me with a little headroom if I decide to add something else later.

Now my alternator shop told me they could build me a REALLY high output unit -- I smiled and declined at least for now.

 

[uberninja]

Just an FYI, you likely don't need the higher output alternator. I have old PAR style lights on the roof that have 2x 100-watt elements each for a total of 400 watts being drawn. I can run these with high beams and have no problem. The stock alternator can handle it fine. There's a slight dip when you flick the switch but that's normal as the alternator compensates for the load. That said, if you find a higher output alternator in a junkyard, go for it!

It's not so much that I need it so much as I'd like to go bigger for other accessories in the future like a bigger stereo,possible winch, and maybe some roof lights. But as long as I don't run the air compressor and accidentally move the power seats back it should be more than sufficient. Learned the hard way how to blow a couple fuses at once!

It runs fine now and you described it perfectly, it dips a little when you flick the switch but it runs fine at speed. Really been happy with the lighting upgrade when tackling some of the country roads at night. Makes a huge difference! Will probably install silverstars once my headlight bulbs need replacing just to keep lighting up the night.

Also natenkiki, totally noticed you're from Idaho. Just moved away from Eagle in May, spent the last ten years there. Made me laugh! Small world!

 

[uberninja]

If the draw is a concern, a 93-94 Explorer Limited alternator (130 amp) is a direct bolt-on. I did that mod, but probably didn't have to no more than my accessories draw. I did it because it was a simple easy upgrade and left me with a little headroom if I decide to add something else later.

Now my alternator shop told me they could build me a REALLY high output unit -- I smiled and declined at least for now.

Exactly where I'm at. I figure I'll probably have to replace the alternator at some point anyways so it won't hurt to do it then. Its getting torn out next weekend for testing anyway.

 

[natenkiki2004]

It's not so much that I need it so much as I'd like to go bigger for other accessories in the future like a bigger stereo,possible winch, and maybe some roof lights. But as long as I don't run the air compressor and accidentally move the power seats back it should be more than sufficient. Learned the hard way how to blow a couple fuses at once!

It runs fine now and you described it perfectly, it dips a little when you flick the switch but it runs fine at speed. Really been happy with the lighting upgrade when tackling some of the country roads at night. Makes a huge difference! Will probably install silverstars once my headlight bulbs need replacing just to keep lighting up the night.

Also natenkiki, totally noticed you're from Idaho. Just moved away from Eagle in May, spent the last ten years there. Made me laugh! Small world!

That was pretty much my point that I was trying to make. Not necessary just for the lights but if you happen across one in a junkyard and know you're going to add all those goodies, nab it up!
I know there's some people that run multiple alternators but that certainly takes some fabrication skills. Not really worth it if you know how to use your system. Plus, you could always wire in an additional battery for temporary usage that exceeds alternator output.

Small world indeed, I noticed your plate as well I'm quite a bit north of where you were at though.

Definitely post pics of your wiring projects. I personally always love an excuse to go out and run wires, solder connections and tidy things up.

 

[uberninja]

Definitely post pics of your wiring projects. I personally always love an excuse to go out and run wires, solder connections and tidy things up.

I'll plan on uploading some for any interested parties. I had a lot of wire so I tried to route it away form hot areas if possible because I know the wire isn't very thick. Pretty sure its actually through some of the frame rails and comes out next to the horn. Having the fog lamp switch and plugs prewired and setup for additional lights from the factory, made this project a snap. Couple of crimps here and there with some connector covers and it literally just bolted on. Been very happy with the upgrade at night. I'm going to install security screws next to make sure they don't go anywhere in the future. Might rustle up some small chicken wire and see if I can fabricate some covers for the daytime driving.