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Aftermarket HU/need help with Fatory added amp/sub wiring

str8nitro

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City, State
Peoria Heights, Illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Mercury Mountaineer
[Solved] Aftermarket HU/need help with Fatory added amp/sub wiring

Hey hey everyone! Need some help with wiring please. I have searched all over the forums and internet off and on for about a week but haven't found any answers ... well except "it's not worth it", "go aftermarket" etc.

I have a 2005 Mercury Mountaineer that I picked up a couple months ago, it had a standard factory single disc player in it the was done for. I have replaced the HU with a Pioneer FH-X720BT and replaced all 4 factory speakers with Pioneer TS-A6885R. I used an aftermarket wire harness to hook up everything and keep the factory wiring intact.

The vehicle did not come from the factory with the amp/sub option. I went to the local pull n save here and found a 2003 or 2004 that had one and pulled the panel and the sub/amp and all the wiring that was there. Where I have an issue is someone already cut out all the radio wiring from the donor vehicle so I only have the wiring up to the passenger kick panel. I did find another plug laying on the floor and I believe it was the plug from the amp/sub going to the main harness in the passenger kick panel, but it does not have the same amount of wires. The wires running from the back of the radio plug to the main harness plug in the passenger kick panel were all gone (someone took the whole dash out). But I do have the pigtail plug coming out of the main harness in the passenger kick panel because it had been cut before the plug.

The bigger plug is the one that was in the main harness passenger kick panel and the little plug is the one i found on the floor. This is what I have and I just need to know if someone can tell me the wiring please. The 2 wires with the tape on them I am pretty sure are the speaker wires. Then I know there has to be a remote wire and a power wire, and I have no idea what the bare wire is with tape wrapped around it (had/has a foil shield on it) which I believe is called a shielded wire, but have no idea where it hooks up.
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Thanks in advance!!!
 






[Solved] Aftermarket HU/need help with Fatory added amp/sub wiring

So looking all over the internet I saw so many different answers so it was time for trial and error. I only used the bigger plug and didn't bother with the smaller one since I Had to run all my own wires from the passengers kick panel to the radio. Lots of people said the sub speaker wires were red/blk + / Brn/Org -, blue/red - remote and didn't find anything on the yellow or blk/org.

When all was said and done the wire configuration was (and I am not sure it is 100% correct but I am 100% sure it works now)

BRN/ORG SUB- (I ran it to the - of an RCA plug)
BLUE/RED SUB+ (I ran it to the + of an RCA plug)
Bare Wire (SHIELD) (I ran it to the radio ground)
RED/BLK REMOTE (of course to the radio remote wire)
BIG YELLOW - ACC POWER (I ran it to the acc wire on the radio)
BIG BLK/ORG - GROUND (I grounded it with the ground wires in the passenger kick panel)

I turned it on and it worked, but of course it had a "pop" when it first came on. I was already prepared for this and bought a voltage regulator and capacitors. I read many people saying use many different size ohm resistors and use voltage regulator (like found on http://www.sminntech.com/ampinterface.html. I built the voltage regulator and put it in place but I felt it got to hot for something I wanted to bury in my dash so I did away with it. Instead I put a 1.5k ohm resistor (which I already had on hand) between the radio remote wire and the amp remote wire ... no more "pop". The resistor never even got warm (may have got a bad voltage regulator, but still like the resistor price and ease of use better).

The factory sub doesn't rattle my hatch, but I didn't want it too. I went with the factory sub/amp because I just wanted to add a little more bass to my tunes, and it does that perfectly and sounds really good. Can't beat the price either, I have $26 in the whole project, minus the price of the voltage regulator and capacitors which was around $6 ($20 for the sub/amp setup and the interior panel that covers it, and $6 in a spray can of interior paint because the color of the panel didn't match).

I didn't take any pictures (other than the plug(s)), but everything fit right in place and I ran the wires that came with the sub/amp setup through the plastic wire loom/channel under the plastic step/carpet hold downs, all the way to the kick panel.

Hope this helps someone.
 






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