Aftermarket wheel reliability

[Nctruckman]

I had some issues in the past with some pro comp wheels on my 2003 cracking around the lugs after being torqued to the factory spec of 100 ft lbs. I called them and talked to tech support, they stated 70-80 ft lbs maximum. Has anyone else had issues with aftermarket cast wheels on these not being rated for the factory torque spec? Running a 265 75 16 on a 16x8 pro comp 1069-6865 wheel.
I have a replacement set now, but I'm weary of them for this reason.

 

[BKennedy]

I have never heard of a aftermarket wheel manufacture who has torque settings lower than OEM. They are setting themselves up for some serious liability doing that. I have a cheap set of ION wheels on my off-road Explorer that get torqued to the factory settings and beat on with no issues.

 

[Nctruckman]

I have never heard of a aftermarket wheel manufacture who has torque settings lower than OEM. They are setting themselves up for some serious liability doing that. I have a cheap set of ION wheels on my off-road Explorer that get torqued to the factory settings and beat on with no issues.

The cast 171s?

 

[BKennedy]

I have no idea. I purchases them off eBay in 2013 when doing a solid axle swap because they were cheap and I knew I was going to beat them up. They are cast. I think they cost about $75 each.
Recent pic

 

[Nctruckman]

I have no idea. I purchases them off eBay in 2013 when doing a solid axle swap because they were cheap and I knew I was going to beat them up. They are cast. I think they cost about $75 each.
Recent pic
View attachment 426424

They look good. I'm probably just gonna back to the factory wheels, get some decent usa made hub centric spacers and just live with it, see if theyll do atleast a partial refund. They initially told me to use the factory torque spec.

 

[CDW6212R]

Pro Comp is a brand with a big questionable reputation for low quality. They have made a lot of knock off parts for many years that have had big issues, such as heads or intakes etc.

Manufacturing has improved in China, but there is still a big variance in quality, and it's mostly at the builder's level. They choose to go very cheap on some things, and others they command higher quality from the China source. So it's hard to tell what you are getting from any brand. I'm just suggesting that people should remain leery of Pro Comp, they haven't completely restored their reputation.

I would not use those wheels that cracked, that's a weakness issue and dangerous.

 

[Nctruckman]

Pro Comp is a brand with a big questionable reputation for low quality. They have made a lot of knock off parts for many years that have had big issues, such as heads or intakes etc.

Manufacturing has improved in China, but there is still a big variance in quality, and it's mostly at the builder's level. They choose to go very cheap on some things, and others they command higher quality from the China source. So it's hard to tell what you are getting from any brand. I'm just suggesting that people should remain leery of Pro Comp, they haven't completely restored their reputation.

I would not use those wheels that cracked, that's a weakness issue and dangerous.

I wouldn't be opposed to getting american racing or ion alloy wheels, but how would one know they're not gonna be from the same manufacturer? I didn't know they once made engine parts too. I received and installed the replacement wheels but I've noticed they bulge where the old ones eventually cracked. I was hoping it was just a defective set, but I don't think it was now.

 

[Bazz270]

My KMC rockstar wheels torqued to factory specs for years

As listed in the rims user manual.zero problems.

 

[AZwildman]

Holy crap the wheels are actually bulging around the lug nuts? That's madness!

I was planning on buying the 15 x 8 69 series in black but now I'm Leary. Man it sucks wheels are so expensive

 

[Gary Crist]

It kind of looks like some one pulled it that all the way to torque with an impact,
on the ground 1 stud at a time.

I would recommend grease or anti-seize at least
on the shoulders of the lug nuts as well as the shoulders of the alloy wheels.

 

[Nctruckman]

Holy crap the wheels are actually bulging around the lug nuts? That's madness!

I was planning on buying the 15 x 8 69 series in black but now I'm Leary. Man it sucks wheels are so expensive

I'd go with any brand but these.

It kind of looks like some one pulled it that all the way to torque with an impact,
on the ground 1 stud at a time.

I would recommend grease or anti-seize at least
on the shoulders of the lug nuts as well as the shoulders of the alloy wheels.

It was torqued to spec with a torque wrench, I used an impact to loosen it only. Used the factory lugs and it wasnt on the ground.

 

[Bazz270]

The torque wrench was set to the right units and it was calibrated for sure?


Are you sure about factory lug nuts angle compability?


I mean after all, you will need a very huge lever to get the aluminum casting to be over compressed.even the cheap one...

Anyways..dont run on these...they are done for sure

 

[Gary Crist]

Here is a little chart that will help understand why the torque differences.
Lots of bolts are now torque and stretch via stretch gauge (rod bolts) or
torque + degrees of turn and many more.

Lubing the threads and shoulders lowers the friction of the joint and stretches the bolt.
I assumed grade 8 1/2 inch, the 100 fr/lb is right but lube it and watch!!

Bolt Torque Chart - Portland Bolt

Torque values for various grades and diameters of fasteners.

www.portlandbolt.com

 

[Bazz270]

Lug thread torque depends not only by bolt capabilities but also by the compressed aluminum yield stress (about 200MPa clamp stress needed to pass the compression yield value).

Using this charts ,you are totally neglecting the bearing and the compression yield stress on the rim lug holes.

Use only factory specs (or aftermarket ) rim lug torque values.antiseize in lug nuts never recommended by ford.u are using wheel thread lubricants on your own risk.
Actually there is minimal risk of galvanic corrosion and seize between the lug and nut since they are both made of coated alloy carbon steel

 

[Nctruckman]

The torque wrench was set to the right units and it was calibrated for sure?


Are you sure about factory lug nuts angle compability?


I mean after all, you will need a very huge lever to get the aluminum casting to be over compressed.even the cheap one...

Anyways..dont run on these...they are done for sure

The conical seat lugs fit perfectly. Only thing I can figure is from taking them on and off it caused this. And yes, I made sure it was a proper torque wrench, double checked with a digital torque adapter. I also clean the hub flange every time I rotate tires.

There's one in the barn I saved to show as proof and the other 3 were scrapped after cutting the center.

I have a replacement set on that's only been tightened down once, put in hub centric rings. I've already noticed bulging against the hub centric ring. Talking with pro comp customer support now.

 

[Bazz270]

Maybe poor quality control or so

 

[CDW6212R]

It's not bad to use a little anti-seize, but don't over do it by coating every surface. Over a year or to lugnuts can be a lot harder to remove if the threads are left bare. I put anti-seize on the hub flanges to keep the wheels from sticking to them, that's especially important in the rear for the rotors with parking brake pads inside of them. Once in a blue moon I add a little swipe of anti-seize to the wheel studs, about 20% of a full coverage amount. That helps with tightening and not having the lugs fight to come loose.

 

[AZwildman]

Very interested in what Pro Comp says

 

[Nctruckman]

I emailed them and it created a customer service ticket, got the automated response so they got it, just waiting on an answer, just want to document everything.

 

[Nctruckman]

I received a response stating that I was using the wrong lug nuts and the wrong torque, which I did not on this replacement set. They are stating 85 foot pounds versus the 70 to 80 rating I was told over the phone.