Air conditioning problem

[01EB5.0]

This is the first summer i have had my Explorer. The begionning of the summer the A/C worked excellent and was very cold. I only used it about 5 or 6 times. I parked the truck for 4 weeks and come home from my trip and the cooling core freezes up every time I use the A/C now and the black canister under the hood there the refrigerant goes doesn't become cold and perspire anymore...it stays real hot. I know the cooling core freezes up because when I park the truck a lot of water drips out under the passanger side by the firewall. I am just wondering in anyone's opinion what I should do from here to correct the problem. I would like the cheapest fix. I know A/C problems can be expensive...$800 for my mom's 94 ford van...but hopefully mines not that bad!

 

[Stephen]

Hmm, I really know very little about A/C systems. The only advice I could give you Trav is to get some references from people who have had A/C work done, and go ahead and put it in the shop. A/C is a notorious problem that mechanics really stick people for. I would get AT LEAST 3 seperate opinions on it before you let anyone do the work. Taking it to three different Ford dealers really does no good, use independant shops, gas stations and the like. Make sure they know that they are NOT to work on the vehicle, you just want to know their opinion on the cause and an estimate including man hours and listed parts with prices. You most likely have a leak in the system somewhere, they'll patch it and charge it up. However, I'd hate to see some unscrupulous mechanic see a young man such as yourself coming, and get ideas, know what I mean?

 

[01EB5.0]

Ok..thanks Steph. when I decide to get it fixed I wll do that. i have decided not to get it fixed until next summer because thehottest part of the summer is passing and I most likely won't need the A/C until next summer. My only concern now is does anyone know if it will do any damage to the compressor if it is running w/out the system being charged? i know when it is set in defrost mode the compressor runs even when it's set on hot because it pulls moisture out of the air. I just want to be sure that waiting won't cause more problems. Thanks!

 

[Goober]

Just a quick thought.

I know next to nothing regarding the ac system, but it seems if there is a leak or whatever way the coolant seeps out, moisture has now found a way in and could damage the system or aone part of it. I don't know the specific or even if any damage would occur, it was just a thought.

 

[Stephen]

What Jeff said is possible I suppose, but I really wouldn't worry about it. What I would worry about is it becoming more and more difficult to find the leak in the system as time goes by, and its not used. Plus, many shops will charge less for A/C work during the fall and winter, than in the summer and spring.

 

[scott]

???

Is the clutch on the compressor activating when the A/C is switched on? If so then the system is not empty, when a sytem is empty or very low the clutch won't kick in on the compressor. One way to tell is to do a pressure check of the system. K-Mart or WalMart sells a pressure guage(looks similar to the old style tire guages) that is made for A/C systems. It's only about $4-$5.
Your problems sounds familiar to mine. The R-12 in my '91 had long since leaked out(over almost a year to the best of my memory) so I converted it to R-134a. It was cold for several days then got got warmer. I checked the pressure and it was fine but the clutch was cycling every 3 seconds. I drained and refilled the system just like I did during the initial conversion and it still wasn't cold. The compressor clutch doesn't want to engage either. So, I quit tinkering(for now) before it resulted in a gunfight which the truck would've lost.

 

[SnowLover]

Okay Guys/ Gals,

Here's a good one for you! I had my 93 Explorer converted to R-134 after the R-12 leaked out. That was all fine and good for about two weeks. Then we went on a long trip, pulled a trailer (800#), overheated, lost the A/C, and showed up for a re-charge and T-shooting of the cooling system. Now, in Dec. 01, the heads were shaved, new radiator, new heater core, new hoses, new thermostat, all installed.

The mechanic found the hoses to/ from the compressor leaking, gave us an estimate of $270 (GULP!). Okay, after waiting till the next payday we took the vehicle in and had him do the work. He R&R'd the hoses, and re-charged the system. I picked up the truck, and VIOLA!
70°F air from the vents. GGGRRRRR!

Back we went, left the truck overnight. He changed the receiver/ dryer (accumulator), the orifice tube, and re-charged it per the normal procedure. Still no joy.......so, he bought a new evaporator from AUTOZONE, and this is important! After installing the evaporator and re-charging the system, he hears a loud BOOM!. Shuts everything off, and starts checking things. Turns out the finger screen that is in the hard tube at the evap shot into the evaporator and plugged it up! He checked the internal dimensions and compared them to the recess for the filter. The AUTOZONE part is machined with looser tolerances than the original Ford part! Back to Ford for an evaporator. After replacing the evaporator (again), the compressor shelled out!!!

Today he changed the compressor, and condenser, and now one of the "new" hoses started seeping. He replaced the hose and his Freon machine finally failed!!
He did get it serviced and it now gets cold, comes up to pressure and then the compressor starts cycling on and off.

Let me say a few things here: The mechanic is as honest and sincere as can be, he is knowledgeable, has spoken to others about hints/ tips, and he refused to charge me full boat for the work and parts (I paid him 1/2 of the parts cost). Obviously, I left a few details out, but I have worked closely with him throughout the process, and he has followed a logical sequence. He did tell me that the new hoses came 'kinked' in the packaging. Hey, I am no auto mechanic, but I AM an FAA licensed aviation maintenance technician, and it is common knowledge that you NEVER kink a teflon lined hose! I am wondering if the hose shed some internal lining and thats what is causing this continual problem??
BTW, the hoses are supplied by NAPA.

I am REAL curious as to your opinions on this- thanks!

 

[Glacier991]

swapping over an R-12 system to R-134 is something of a tricky business. R-134 hoses have to be "barrier" hoses. The R-12 ones will not wirk. This may explain your hose problem. Often the compressor in an old R-12 system is on its last legs anyway. The lubrication with R-134 is no where near as good as with R-12 (it's all about how well the refrigerant carries the oil - called miscability) and that's why R-134 does not use mineral oil like R-12. If you do not do an adequate job of flushing the system, you are just looking at problems down the road.

At a minimum a changeover should have the receiver/dryer replaced with a new one, the expansion tube checked and maybe replaced, everything that can be flushed and checked for any signs of heat breakdown (black gunk) and all hoses replaced with barrier hoses. If you buy a kit to retrofit, you will, sooner or later, be a candidate for AC repair. They will eventually cause the "death" of your AC.

Hope this helps.

Chris

 

[RiverRat]

01EB5.0,

I can't help much because I'd need to hook up a gauge set to check your pressures. I'd look to a plugged evaporator core as a possible problem. Why is it plugged? Most likely the compressor has internal damage. Broken fixed orifice tube could be possible too. Without doing some diagnosis it's tough to guess what is wrong with your system.

Whenever you replace an air conditioning compressor for internal failure make sure the mechanic puts on an inline filter!!! This will greatly reduce the chance of a repeat compressor failure.

 

[01EB5.0]

Hey RiverRat,
Thanks for the suggestions. I ended up messing up the old truck and selling it, still with A/C that only got semi-cold. Furtunatly my new truck has a warentee for another 45,000 miles so I won;t have to worry much for at least 2 years....