Air Ride System

[Ryan'sMounty5.0]

I have a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0 AWD, and was told by a local 4x4 store that my car has a air ride system? Is this true? He also said that because of the air ride system it isn't smart to go with a shackle lift kit? Is this statement true? He stated that the best and safest thing to do is add a 2inch add a leaf, torsion keys in the front and move my air ride system all for about $560 which sounds like a deal to me. Anyone agree? Opinions? Thanks! I'm new here lol

 

[nathaniversen]

If yours does in fact have the air ride, then it'll have air piston shocks on the rear that are inflated by a compressor under the spare tire and controlled by a height sensor that goes between the frame and the axle. The only practical way to keep the functionality of the air ride is to basically leave the truck alone, otherwise yes, if you want to lift it you have to disable the system and replace the rear shocks.

As for opinions on the actual lift, someone else can hopefully chime in.

 

[Ryan'sMounty5.0]

Thank you very much.

 

[Flash]

IMO the problem with air ride is the shocks, and it's very expensive to replace them.

I ended up fitting Bilsteins all 'round because I wanted the control they give.

I might splice airbags into the stock air ride system one day.

 

[Ryan'sMounty5.0]

So I have to remove the spare tire to determine if I have the air ride system?

 

[nathaniversen]

No, open the little panel that houses your jack and rear window washer fluid on the left side, and see if there's a black electrical switch.

 

[Ryan'sMounty5.0]

Okay thanks. I'll check that when I get off. And hopefully I don't have the air ride system so I can do the tortion twist and shackles. Then again a nice 3inch body lift would be nice.

 

[1998Exp]

In addition to the disable switch (and a large decal warning you not to jack up the vehicle without turning it off), air suspension is fairly easy to identify: the shock absorbers are much larger in diameter and have an air line connected to them. There will also be a ride height sensor, attached between the frame and the rear axle.

So I have to remove the spare tire to determine if I have the air ride system?

 

[Ryan'sMounty5.0]

So I checked the compartment where my jack goes and found an air hose looking thing, with a black shock looking thing but no disable switch. So I def have the air ride system, now if I find the disable switch, then will I be able to use a shackle lift? Or should I just pay the $560 to get it lofted, opinions?

 

[Ryan'sMounty5.0]

Everywhere I read online says I should be able to adjust the system via two buttons. One to raise it, and one too lower it, but I don't have these buttons anywhere in my vehicle. Unless there hidden? And I found a conversion kit to regular suspension for about $350. Has anyone tried this?

 

[bobflood]

No disable switch, no warning label, no control buttons says NO air ride to me.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

If the truck DOES have working air ride, you can very easily lift the truck with just a couple straps and bolts. By moving the ride height sensors, the truck thinks it is sitting too low and adds air to raise the shocks. Throw a couple turns on the torsion bolts to match and its done. No need for AAL or shackles. Cost maybe $10. Done it only other trucks. Sure it will work on an explorer.

 

[Ryan'sMounty5.0]

When I get a better chance to look at it, ill look again. And where do I move the ride height sensors too?

 

[1998Exp]

Based on what he reported, the O/Ps truck most likely does not not have air ride.
Nevertheless, 'fooling the system' by moving the sensors is an interesting trick. As they will no longer sit in their mid-range position after the sensor is moved, how far can one go this way and still have some room for the shocks to respond to bumps in the road?

If the truck DOES have working air ride, you can very easily lift the truck with just a couple straps and bolts. By moving the ride height sensors, the truck thinks it is sitting too low and adds air to raise the shocks. Throw a couple turns on the torsion bolts to match and its done. No need for AAL or shackles. Cost maybe $10. Done it only other trucks. Sure it will work on an explorer.

 

[Ryan'sMounty5.0]

O/P's?

 

[RomeovilleIL]

O/P = original poster --> that's you dude

There are 3 ride height sensors. One is mounted on the body behind the spare tire, not far from the top shock mounts. It extends down to the rear differential. It's basically 2 pieces with a rod that moves in and out of the sensor. They are not load bearing. If I recall correctly the rod has a ball end at 90 degree angle that fits a socket on the arm. Up to you to decide which is easier: extend down rod with steel plate and drill through the hole for a bolt/nut, or moving the arm itself lower from the body. Either will work. If you move the either down by a couple inches, the system will raise the rear of the truck correspondingly. I don't think 2-3 inches will have significant bad effect on shock travel. Wouldn't go much past that or ride may become overly stiff.

Front has a sensor on each control arm. In this case the easy thing would be to use a steel plate and extra bolt/nut to move the sensor attachment point 1-2 inches up. The truck will raise the front to match. However since the front shocks do not carry as much load as the rears, you should turn the torsion bars up to match up or the front may become very bouncy. Just like any torsion twist, going more than 2 inches can be very bad for your CV axle joints and alignment. It might be more angle than the stock camber adjustments will allow, in which case you will need to add camber brackets to the upper control arm bolts to keep from ruining your tires and having dangerous steering when you get it realigned.

Total materials = 3 flat bar stock with holes drilled in them (reinforcing straps would be perfect, about $1 each at hardware stores), bolts/washers/locking nuts, rustoleum paint to protect from elements.

** This all assumes you have a working air ride system **