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I had my alignment done a few months ago after I installed some tie-rod ends, but I had to replace some ball joints today (both lower) and went ahead and threw the alignment heads on it just to make sure everything was still good. Usually after doing the bottom ball joints, there's no need for the alignment (I only did the front, the rear is fine)
Cross Camber -0.0
Cross Caster -0.2
Total Toe 0.0
When you sit in it the numbers look better and even out. Good deal.
Hello Drew, your numbers are quite a bit different than Ted's. I hope you aren't very aggressive in turns. Ted's camber numbers will give better tire wear for hard drivers, versus those almost zero camber specs.
I usually ask my alignment techs for a camber spec which is very near to the negative limit. I have had very good tire wear for myself, by doing this. Good luck all,
Don't worry - I'm fine. Ted's is fixed up for "corners" since his is lowered - mine is lifted and all that great stuff. I am a technician myself, and I looked up the specs on it and that's actually where it needs to be (indeed, for a stock suspension, but with all the extentions and everything, the suspension/steering components in my lift kit are suppose to keep the factory settings and angles.
EDIT: I also had another tech (the guy in the shop that does all the alignments on our Hot Rods and Shelby Cobras) and he said it was, in his words "F-ing perfect". You really can't ask for anything better for my type of vehicle - no my vehicle won't take great turns, and I don't try to either with my center of gravity being a little higher than normal on a vehicle that's already famous for roll overs.