thorney_5
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- October 14, 2012
- Messages
- 146
- Reaction score
- 2
- City, State
- New Jersey
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2000 XLT SOHC
This is the first of many how to threads I will be making in the coming weeks, including:
1) Front shocks
2) emergency brake system overhaul
3) rear pinion seal replacement
4) differential fluid change
5) rear axle bearing and seal replacement
6) inner and outer tie rods
7) brake fluid change and pad/ rotor replacement all around
8) Lower ball joints
9) u-joints
10) front and rear sway bar links/bushings
11) and maybe in a few months, front bearing/hub replacement, upper ball joints, CV axles, and glowshift gauges, but for right now I'm all spent out.
The late and great "Aldive" has given me many great ideas for my truck, the latest of which is the Amsoil Dual Remote By-pass oil filtration system along with a switch to synthetic. His thread on the install can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126111
My choice of amsoil was based on great things I have heard about it from both this forum and the amsoil site itself(obviously partial to themselves). I want to put the best in my truck and amsoil, I believe, is very close to the best. My thoughts about the company were only justified with the arrival of my order. Everything was packed nicely, I received a packet introducing me to amsoil, and was ecstatic with the apparent quality of the contents. I do not profess to be an oil expert, nor do I believe everything I see, but so far Amsoil is on my good side. Oil analysis will find the proof in the pudding.
More detail on by pass systems and the science behind them can be found in Al's posts and on the Amsoil website (keeping in mind their site will be biased).
The purpose of this thread is to help me give back to you guys and help out anyone else who is interested in such a system with their installation.
Without further adieu, here is the install:
Included in the kit:
Item-Description-Qty.-Part No.
1. Filter Mount Assembly 1 BK309
2. Allen Head Plug 2 BP191
3. 1⁄4" 20 x 1" Hex Head Bolt 4 BP23
4. 1⁄4" I.D. Washer 6 BP21
5. 1⁄4" Self Locking Nuts 8 BP22
6. 90° fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8" JIC 1 BP331
7. O-Ring Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8��JIC 3 BP289
8. Hose Fitting 4 BP360
9. 1⁄2" I.D. Hose 12" BP350
10.* Spin-On Adapter 1 BP402
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 22 mm x 1.5 1 BP403
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 3⁄4"-16 1 BP404
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 13⁄16"-16 1 BP405
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 18mm x 1.5 1 BP406
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 20mm x 1.5 1 BP407
12.* Gasket 2 1⁄2" ID 1 BP196
13.* O-Ring 3 1⁄8" ID 1 BP162
14. Mounting Bracket Top 1 BP194
15. Mounting Bracket Bottom 1 BP195
16. 1⁄4"-20 x 11⁄2" Hex Head Bolt 4 BP185
17. 1⁄4"ID Fender Washer 4 BP186
18.* Adapter Nut O-Ring 1 BP346
19.* O-Ring Casting 1 BP160
Plastic Tie 2 BP46
Thread Sealant 1 BP198
Instruction Sheet 1 BP252
The spin-on adapter that fits your vehicle must be purchased seperately!!!
Optional Parts:
Oil Sampling Kit 1 BK13
Deluxe Oil Sampling Valve 1⁄4" NPT 1 G1570
(Must also order BP209)
90°Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8"JIC 1 BK21
45°Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8"JIC 1 BK22
All the parts in the kit appear and feel heavy-duty and strong-- i don't suspect leaks will be a problem with proper installation. The hoses are rated at 500 psi and are connected with heavy duty compression fittings. This is my only problem with the kit:
MADE IN CHINA???! DAMN
Mounting: I HIGHLY RECOMMEND MOUNTING EVERYTHING FIRST BEFORE DRAINING ANY OIL, SHOULD YOU RUN INTO ANY PROBLEMS AND NEED TO USE THE VEHICLE.
The mounting location i chose is identical to Aldive's, for it's DECENT protection and easy access for filter service. Anyone who off roads or wants increased protection should consider building a metal cover or skid plate. I myself feel a little uneasy about something tearing into one of those filters, so I'm designing a cover. Before mounting i sanded and coated the frame to remove and prevent rust around the area. This is to make my life easier when i do my undercarriage restoration later on.
Drilling through the frame was easy. I used the brackets and a small punch to make a template, then used my nice new set of Dewalt drill bits and a cordless drill to drill the holes. 17/64 was the perfect size bit. If done properly, only 2 holes need to be drilled because existing holes in the frame can be utilized.
Quality drill bits are a must. Depending on the length of your drill or bit, a 90 degree drill adapter may be necessary. They are about $20 from Lowes.
After mounting i drained the old oil and connected all hoses. (Screw on adapter after attaching hoses to it to make life easier). I must mention that before i started anything, i ran Amsoil's Engine and transmission flush in the oil to help wash out sludge and my old dino oil. Again, this step is very much up for debate regarding its effectiveness and necessity. This is what i chose to do, not what i'm telling anyone to do. The oil was replaced with just over 6 quarts of Amsoil Signature series 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil, however this figure depends on the length of your hoses. (Stock capacity is 5 quarts).
Oil analysis should be used if you are planning on extended drain intervals. I plan to use Blackstone labs oil analysis service, mainly because of Al's recommendation and their hand written comments.
Pictures:
Used to cut the heavy duty hose:
Pictures of the parts:
Install Progression:
Oil the inner hose fitting:
Anti-seize on the threads:
Screw it in (1 inch wrench):
I used the loctite that was supplied in the kit on all threads. The instructions said not to use teflon tape.
Sorry no pictures of the finished product yet. It was getting dark and i wanted to get done. I'll upload them later, along with my opinions on the system after it has been running a few days.
A few notes:
1) if buying from amsoil, pay the $10 and become a preferred customer. Saves 25% on your order.
2) be sure to fill the new filters with new oil- this reduces the time the oil pump needs to return oil pressure to the system
3) as stated by 2000StreetRod, use extra oil or gasket sealer on the spin on block adapter to prevent leaks as this gasket will not likely be removed for a few years.
4) have an oil filter wrench handy, I fought with my stock motorcraft one for about an hour trying to get it off.
5) my idea for a cover is to cut out the bottom of one of those WW2 ammo boxes and bolt it onto the mount upside down. This will provide ample protection and leave me with a convenient hatch to change the filters
6) please dispose of used oil and filters properly and responsibly.
In conclusion, i would say for what it may save you, this is a very cheap form of insurance. One engine rebuild is 4 of these installs or even more. It can easily be installed by your average joe, especially when no special knowledge or tools are needed. All in all, a worthy investment for someone wanting to keep their truck for a LONG time.
Thank you Al
Good luck!
Edit:
Final Pictures: I wasnt crazy about the hose routing, but thats what i get for not exactly measuring. If anything i get just a tiny bit more oil capacity.
1) Front shocks
2) emergency brake system overhaul
3) rear pinion seal replacement
4) differential fluid change
5) rear axle bearing and seal replacement
6) inner and outer tie rods
7) brake fluid change and pad/ rotor replacement all around
8) Lower ball joints
9) u-joints
10) front and rear sway bar links/bushings
11) and maybe in a few months, front bearing/hub replacement, upper ball joints, CV axles, and glowshift gauges, but for right now I'm all spent out.
The late and great "Aldive" has given me many great ideas for my truck, the latest of which is the Amsoil Dual Remote By-pass oil filtration system along with a switch to synthetic. His thread on the install can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126111
My choice of amsoil was based on great things I have heard about it from both this forum and the amsoil site itself(obviously partial to themselves). I want to put the best in my truck and amsoil, I believe, is very close to the best. My thoughts about the company were only justified with the arrival of my order. Everything was packed nicely, I received a packet introducing me to amsoil, and was ecstatic with the apparent quality of the contents. I do not profess to be an oil expert, nor do I believe everything I see, but so far Amsoil is on my good side. Oil analysis will find the proof in the pudding.
More detail on by pass systems and the science behind them can be found in Al's posts and on the Amsoil website (keeping in mind their site will be biased).
The purpose of this thread is to help me give back to you guys and help out anyone else who is interested in such a system with their installation.
Without further adieu, here is the install:
Included in the kit:
Item-Description-Qty.-Part No.
1. Filter Mount Assembly 1 BK309
2. Allen Head Plug 2 BP191
3. 1⁄4" 20 x 1" Hex Head Bolt 4 BP23
4. 1⁄4" I.D. Washer 6 BP21
5. 1⁄4" Self Locking Nuts 8 BP22
6. 90° fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8" JIC 1 BP331
7. O-Ring Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8��JIC 3 BP289
8. Hose Fitting 4 BP360
9. 1⁄2" I.D. Hose 12" BP350
10.* Spin-On Adapter 1 BP402
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 22 mm x 1.5 1 BP403
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 3⁄4"-16 1 BP404
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 13⁄16"-16 1 BP405
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 18mm x 1.5 1 BP406
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 20mm x 1.5 1 BP407
12.* Gasket 2 1⁄2" ID 1 BP196
13.* O-Ring 3 1⁄8" ID 1 BP162
14. Mounting Bracket Top 1 BP194
15. Mounting Bracket Bottom 1 BP195
16. 1⁄4"-20 x 11⁄2" Hex Head Bolt 4 BP185
17. 1⁄4"ID Fender Washer 4 BP186
18.* Adapter Nut O-Ring 1 BP346
19.* O-Ring Casting 1 BP160
Plastic Tie 2 BP46
Thread Sealant 1 BP198
Instruction Sheet 1 BP252
The spin-on adapter that fits your vehicle must be purchased seperately!!!
Optional Parts:
Oil Sampling Kit 1 BK13
Deluxe Oil Sampling Valve 1⁄4" NPT 1 G1570
(Must also order BP209)
90°Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8"JIC 1 BK21
45°Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8"JIC 1 BK22
All the parts in the kit appear and feel heavy-duty and strong-- i don't suspect leaks will be a problem with proper installation. The hoses are rated at 500 psi and are connected with heavy duty compression fittings. This is my only problem with the kit:

MADE IN CHINA???! DAMN
Mounting: I HIGHLY RECOMMEND MOUNTING EVERYTHING FIRST BEFORE DRAINING ANY OIL, SHOULD YOU RUN INTO ANY PROBLEMS AND NEED TO USE THE VEHICLE.
The mounting location i chose is identical to Aldive's, for it's DECENT protection and easy access for filter service. Anyone who off roads or wants increased protection should consider building a metal cover or skid plate. I myself feel a little uneasy about something tearing into one of those filters, so I'm designing a cover. Before mounting i sanded and coated the frame to remove and prevent rust around the area. This is to make my life easier when i do my undercarriage restoration later on.

Drilling through the frame was easy. I used the brackets and a small punch to make a template, then used my nice new set of Dewalt drill bits and a cordless drill to drill the holes. 17/64 was the perfect size bit. If done properly, only 2 holes need to be drilled because existing holes in the frame can be utilized.

Quality drill bits are a must. Depending on the length of your drill or bit, a 90 degree drill adapter may be necessary. They are about $20 from Lowes.

After mounting i drained the old oil and connected all hoses. (Screw on adapter after attaching hoses to it to make life easier). I must mention that before i started anything, i ran Amsoil's Engine and transmission flush in the oil to help wash out sludge and my old dino oil. Again, this step is very much up for debate regarding its effectiveness and necessity. This is what i chose to do, not what i'm telling anyone to do. The oil was replaced with just over 6 quarts of Amsoil Signature series 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil, however this figure depends on the length of your hoses. (Stock capacity is 5 quarts).

Oil analysis should be used if you are planning on extended drain intervals. I plan to use Blackstone labs oil analysis service, mainly because of Al's recommendation and their hand written comments.
Pictures:
Used to cut the heavy duty hose:

Pictures of the parts:




Install Progression:




Oil the inner hose fitting:

Anti-seize on the threads:

Screw it in (1 inch wrench):


I used the loctite that was supplied in the kit on all threads. The instructions said not to use teflon tape.
Sorry no pictures of the finished product yet. It was getting dark and i wanted to get done. I'll upload them later, along with my opinions on the system after it has been running a few days.
A few notes:
1) if buying from amsoil, pay the $10 and become a preferred customer. Saves 25% on your order.
2) be sure to fill the new filters with new oil- this reduces the time the oil pump needs to return oil pressure to the system
3) as stated by 2000StreetRod, use extra oil or gasket sealer on the spin on block adapter to prevent leaks as this gasket will not likely be removed for a few years.
4) have an oil filter wrench handy, I fought with my stock motorcraft one for about an hour trying to get it off.
5) my idea for a cover is to cut out the bottom of one of those WW2 ammo boxes and bolt it onto the mount upside down. This will provide ample protection and leave me with a convenient hatch to change the filters
6) please dispose of used oil and filters properly and responsibly.
In conclusion, i would say for what it may save you, this is a very cheap form of insurance. One engine rebuild is 4 of these installs or even more. It can easily be installed by your average joe, especially when no special knowledge or tools are needed. All in all, a worthy investment for someone wanting to keep their truck for a LONG time.
Thank you Al

Good luck!

Edit:
Final Pictures: I wasnt crazy about the hose routing, but thats what i get for not exactly measuring. If anything i get just a tiny bit more oil capacity.



