Amsoil Dual Remote By-Pass Kit Install (pictures)

[thorney_5]

This is the first of many how to threads I will be making in the coming weeks, including:
1) Front shocks
2) emergency brake system overhaul
3) rear pinion seal replacement
4) differential fluid change
5) rear axle bearing and seal replacement
6) inner and outer tie rods
7) brake fluid change and pad/ rotor replacement all around
8) Lower ball joints
9) u-joints
10) front and rear sway bar links/bushings
11) and maybe in a few months, front bearing/hub replacement, upper ball joints, CV axles, and glowshift gauges, but for right now I'm all spent out.

The late and great "Aldive" has given me many great ideas for my truck, the latest of which is the Amsoil Dual Remote By-pass oil filtration system along with a switch to synthetic. His thread on the install can be found here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126111

My choice of amsoil was based on great things I have heard about it from both this forum and the amsoil site itself(obviously partial to themselves). I want to put the best in my truck and amsoil, I believe, is very close to the best. My thoughts about the company were only justified with the arrival of my order. Everything was packed nicely, I received a packet introducing me to amsoil, and was ecstatic with the apparent quality of the contents. I do not profess to be an oil expert, nor do I believe everything I see, but so far Amsoil is on my good side. Oil analysis will find the proof in the pudding.

More detail on by pass systems and the science behind them can be found in Al's posts and on the Amsoil website (keeping in mind their site will be biased).

The purpose of this thread is to help me give back to you guys and help out anyone else who is interested in such a system with their installation.

Without further adieu, here is the install:

Included in the kit:

Item-Description-Qty.-Part No.
1. Filter Mount Assembly 1 BK309
2. Allen Head Plug 2 BP191
3. 1⁄4" 20 x 1" Hex Head Bolt 4 BP23
4. 1⁄4" I.D. Washer 6 BP21
5. 1⁄4" Self Locking Nuts 8 BP22
6. 90° fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8" JIC 1 BP331
7. O-Ring Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8��JIC 3 BP289
8. Hose Fitting 4 BP360
9. 1⁄2" I.D. Hose 12" BP350
10.* Spin-On Adapter 1 BP402
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 22 mm x 1.5 1 BP403
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 3⁄4"-16 1 BP404
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 13⁄16"-16 1 BP405
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 18mm x 1.5 1 BP406
11.* Adapter Retaining Nut 20mm x 1.5 1 BP407
12.* Gasket 2 1⁄2" ID 1 BP196
13.* O-Ring 3 1⁄8" ID 1 BP162
14. Mounting Bracket Top 1 BP194
15. Mounting Bracket Bottom 1 BP195
16. 1⁄4"-20 x 11⁄2" Hex Head Bolt 4 BP185
17. 1⁄4"ID Fender Washer 4 BP186
18.* Adapter Nut O-Ring 1 BP346
19.* O-Ring Casting 1 BP160
Plastic Tie 2 BP46
Thread Sealant 1 BP198
Instruction Sheet 1 BP252
The spin-on adapter that fits your vehicle must be purchased seperately!!!

Optional Parts:
Oil Sampling Kit 1 BK13
Deluxe Oil Sampling Valve 1⁄4" NPT 1 G1570
(Must also order BP209)
90°Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8"JIC 1 BK21
45°Fitting 7⁄8"-14 x 5⁄8"JIC 1 BK22

All the parts in the kit appear and feel heavy-duty and strong-- i don't suspect leaks will be a problem with proper installation. The hoses are rated at 500 psi and are connected with heavy duty compression fittings. This is my only problem with the kit:

MADE IN CHINA???! DAMN

Mounting: I HIGHLY RECOMMEND MOUNTING EVERYTHING FIRST BEFORE DRAINING ANY OIL, SHOULD YOU RUN INTO ANY PROBLEMS AND NEED TO USE THE VEHICLE.
The mounting location i chose is identical to Aldive's, for it's DECENT protection and easy access for filter service. Anyone who off roads or wants increased protection should consider building a metal cover or skid plate. I myself feel a little uneasy about something tearing into one of those filters, so I'm designing a cover. Before mounting i sanded and coated the frame to remove and prevent rust around the area. This is to make my life easier when i do my undercarriage restoration later on.

Drilling through the frame was easy. I used the brackets and a small punch to make a template, then used my nice new set of Dewalt drill bits and a cordless drill to drill the holes. 17/64 was the perfect size bit. If done properly, only 2 holes need to be drilled because existing holes in the frame can be utilized.

Quality drill bits are a must. Depending on the length of your drill or bit, a 90 degree drill adapter may be necessary. They are about $20 from Lowes.

After mounting i drained the old oil and connected all hoses. (Screw on adapter after attaching hoses to it to make life easier). I must mention that before i started anything, i ran Amsoil's Engine and transmission flush in the oil to help wash out sludge and my old dino oil. Again, this step is very much up for debate regarding its effectiveness and necessity. This is what i chose to do, not what i'm telling anyone to do. The oil was replaced with just over 6 quarts of Amsoil Signature series 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil, however this figure depends on the length of your hoses. (Stock capacity is 5 quarts).

Oil analysis should be used if you are planning on extended drain intervals. I plan to use Blackstone labs oil analysis service, mainly because of Al's recommendation and their hand written comments.

Pictures:
Used to cut the heavy duty hose:

Pictures of the parts:

Install Progression:

Oil the inner hose fitting:

Anti-seize on the threads:

Screw it in (1 inch wrench):

I used the loctite that was supplied in the kit on all threads. The instructions said not to use teflon tape.

Sorry no pictures of the finished product yet. It was getting dark and i wanted to get done. I'll upload them later, along with my opinions on the system after it has been running a few days.

A few notes:
1) if buying from amsoil, pay the $10 and become a preferred customer. Saves 25% on your order.
2) be sure to fill the new filters with new oil- this reduces the time the oil pump needs to return oil pressure to the system
3) as stated by 2000StreetRod, use extra oil or gasket sealer on the spin on block adapter to prevent leaks as this gasket will not likely be removed for a few years.
4) have an oil filter wrench handy, I fought with my stock motorcraft one for about an hour trying to get it off.
5) my idea for a cover is to cut out the bottom of one of those WW2 ammo boxes and bolt it onto the mount upside down. This will provide ample protection and leave me with a convenient hatch to change the filters
6) please dispose of used oil and filters properly and responsibly.

In conclusion, i would say for what it may save you, this is a very cheap form of insurance. One engine rebuild is 4 of these installs or even more. It can easily be installed by your average joe, especially when no special knowledge or tools are needed. All in all, a worthy investment for someone wanting to keep their truck for a LONG time.

Thank you Al

Good luck!

Edit:
Final Pictures: I wasnt crazy about the hose routing, but thats what i get for not exactly measuring. If anything i get just a tiny bit more oil capacity.

 

[2000StreetRod]

adapter gasket

Nice installation! With the bypass filter the oil in your engine will eventually contain smaller particles than oil purchased new. That should extend the life of your bearings and journals.

When I installed my remote filter spin on block adapter I was concerned that the gasket might leak after several years so I coated both sides with gasket sealer.

 

[thorney_5]

Thank you

I had the same concern but I don't have gasket sealer so I just oiled the entire gasket and its seat as opposed to just the top of it

 

[thorney_5]

UPDATE: upon driving the truck around today, I began to hear a VERY slight knock that I believe will go away with time. The second noise that I can't quite figure out is a sort of whine/grumble/hiss. It's not mechanical, but it sounds like a running hot water heater pumping fluid. I don't suspect the cooling system because it worked fine before the install. Any ideas? It is a little hard for me to tell because my front bearings are also screaming for replacement (literally).

It's probability my desirability bias, but other than the above, the engine purrs like a kitten. It sounds great accelerating on the highway in the upper rpm range. Again, probably more of a placebo effect because oil cant really change that much. More results and the the oil analysis of my old Dino oil to come.

 

[2000StreetRod]

which engine?

Do you have the OHV or the SOHC V6?

What brand sway bar bushings and links do you plan to purchase? I temporarily replaced my right link upper grommet that failed at an inconvenient time. I used a grommet from a rear sway bar kit I had from a 1970 Wagoneer that I sold about 15 years ago. I'm considering purchasing the Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushing Set because it has grease fittings and polyurethane bushings.

 

[thorney_5]

I have the SOHC. Now that I have been driving the car more the noises seem random. One driving cycle the engine runs smooth as butter, and the next its making strange noises. Is this unusual for a switch to synthetic?

I purchased all MOOG sway bar bushings and links. I considered the energy suspension set but decided against them because the brackets looked weaker than stock. As for the grease fitting, I'll just apply grease liberally when I install them and inspect them every once in a while to see how the grease holds up.

 

[thorney_5]

My description of the noises is pretty poor... It's very difficult to describe. The best I can think of that it resembles is the noise a strained hydraulic pump makes, however in this case it corresponds to rpm. It is also a little higher pitched.

 

[2000StreetRod]

filters prefilled?

I have the SOHC. Now that I have been driving the car more the noises seem random. One driving cycle the engine runs smooth as butter, and the next its making strange noises. Is this unusual for a switch to synthetic?

I always prefill the oil filters when installing/replacing them. Otherwise oil pressure to the engine is delayed while the oil pump fills the filters. If you didn't prefill then there may be air in one or more of the [Edit] hydraulic lash adjusters [/Edit]. That can cause a sound that resembles valve clatter. It ususally goes away after driving the vehicle at moderate engine speeds for twenty to thirty minutes.

I purchased all MOOG sway bar bushings and links. I considered the energy suspension set but decided against them because the brackets looked weaker than stock. As for the grease fitting, I'll just apply grease liberally when I install them and inspect them every once in a while to see how the grease holds up.

I checked Energy Suspensions' website and sway bar bushings with grease fittings are not available for my Sport. Do the Moog bushings have a split alowing easy installation?

 

[swshawaii]

I checked Energy Suspensions' website and sway bar bushings with grease fittings are not available for my Sport. Do the Moog bushings have a split alowing easy installation?

The wider 1 3/8" ES greaseable universal brackets are heavy gauge and have held up well with my aftermarket sway bars.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Universal-Sway-Bar-Bushings.asp

 

[thorney_5]

Maybe I was thinking of the wrong ones... Anyway yes the Moogs have a split in them.

2000streetrod- this is precisely the reason I love this site so much. Had you not given me that information, I 1)would never have learned that and 2) would have been worried sick about my engine. Although I did prefill the filters, I did not completely fill them and the hoses were empty (likely equal volume to almost 2 full flow filters) upon installation. I can't thank you enough.

 

[2000StreetRod]

34 mm diameter

The wider 1 3/8" ES greaseable universal brackets are heavy gauge and have held up well with my aftermarket sway bars.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Universal-Sway-Bar-Bushings.asp

Thanks for the link. According to the website my Sport stock sway bar is 34 mm in diameter which equals 1.3386 inches. The 1 5/16 inch (1.3125 in.) greaseable universal sway bar bushing might be too tight. I wonder if the 35 mm (1.378 in) would be too loose.

 

[thorney_5]

I once put a 34mm bushing on my 31mm bar and it was noisy as hell. Better to go a little smaller I think.

 

[swshawaii]

Thanks for the link. According to the website my Sport stock sway bar is 34 mm in diameter which equals 1.3386 inches. The 1 5/16 inch (1.3125 in.) greaseable universal sway bar bushing might be too tight. I wonder if the 35 mm (1.378 in) would be too loose.

Appears that 34mm (5472) poly bushings are made but not sold separately.
If between sizes, I would also prefer the smaller 33mm rather than 35mm.
http://www.explorerexpress.com/bushings-9801-explorer-sport-sway-bushings-front-34mm-p-537.html
http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.5155

 

[thorney_5]

I always prefill the oil filters when installing/replacing them. Otherwise oil pressure to the engine is delayed while the oil pump fills the filters. If you didn't prefill then there may be air in one or more of the [Edit] hydraulic lash adjusters [/Edit]. That can cause a sound that resembles valve clatter. It ususally goes away after driving the vehicle at moderate engine speeds for twenty to thirty minutes.

Spot on. Went for a longer drive today hoping to rid my engine of this noise, and sure enough the sound became less and less common until it disappeared. Thanks again.

 

[thorney_5]

2-DAY UPDATE: The kit has been installed for almost 2 days. I am extremely happy with it, despite my small scare. The few parts i can see through the oil fill cap already appear slightly cleaner, although nothing drastic. A small wine occurs throughout all engine speeds, but it has become exponentially quieter since it first began. However with reassurance from 2000StreetRod, I'm expecting this noise to disappear in the next day or 2.

I am checking for leaks and verifying the oil level, and will continue to do so for the next 5 days to ensure a reliable, leak-free system. I also plan to buy header tape in the near future to wrap around the hoses in order to protect them from potentially damaging exhaust heat.

If you have any questions about the system please feel free to ask.

 

[thorney_5]

UPDATE: Well the small whine I had progressively got worse instead of better. I began to suspect things other than internal engine parts, because air would most definitely have been bled from the system by now. With some help from the forum and a little diagnosing of my own, it became clear my noise was of idler/ tensioner pulley origin. After a trip to autozone (I hate autozone, but it was my only choice), I was again able to hear my well oiled engine.

As for the kit, not much to report on. No leaks have been found, and everything is holding up well. After 972 miles, the oil should look nothing but brand new, and it does.

 

[thorney_5]

Question- While an accusump or equivalent is in my future, I simply do not have the funds for it right now. My oil pressure takes a second or 2 to come up in the normal range after start up. I dont know if it always did this and im now just noticing it or if it is related to the bypass system. I'm wondering of theres anything I can do to remedy this until I can get my hands on a pre oiler. Any less expensive options? Lighter weight oil (0w30)? Something to bring the oil pressure up in those first few moments.

 

[2000StreetRod]

hose lengths

Most oil filters have inexpensive anti-drainback check valves to prevent having to fill the filter with oil on engine start. Since your filters appear to be mounted vertically inverted they should not drain even if there is no anti-drainback check valve or it is defective. However, if ends of the oil lines to the remote filters are above the ends to the block adapter there's an unlikely chance of drainage of the oil in the hoses. If there is an increase in oil pressurization time it would be due to air in the hoses or filters. Oil is incompressible (for reasonable pressures) so the added length of the hoses should not make a difference if the hose diameter and length does not increase under pressure.

Since you're using Amsoil Signature series 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil flow should be good at the normal range of temperatures. I don't recommend spending the money and time to switch to 0W-30. Remember the oil pressure switch is located near the end of the oil path in the engine.

 

[thorney_5]

Thanks for the reply. So from what i gather the delay in pressurization is not due necessarily to a lack of oil pressure in the engine (and therefore protection) but instead due to the lengthened hoses and the location of the oil pressure sender? Where in the flow "circuit" is the oil pump? Does it pump directly into the stock filter location? Would an aftermarket pressure sender installed at the bypass manifold yield a different, more immediate pressure reading (not something I'm considering but just helps me understand a bit better)?

 

[Flash]

Do you get any excessive engine noise in the period before the gauge shows pressure?