Amsoil Dual Remote By-Pass Kit Install (pictures)

[2000StreetRod]

oil flow

For a stock engine oil from the pump is fed directly to the block oil filter adapter, thru the filter and back into the block. The photo below shows the horizontal oil channel across the front of the block to the oil pressure switch.

Oil pressure is probably greater at the filter adapter than down the flow path at the pressure switch which activates above about 5 psi. But the difference may not be significant. Oil filters have a bypass valve that allows unfiltered oil to flow to the engine when the filter becomes clogged. I wonder what the bypass pressure setting is for the Amsoil full flow filter.

 

[thorney_5]

Do you get any excessive engine noise in the period before the gauge shows pressure?

Most of the time no, but on some start ups I do.

 

[thorney_5]

Thanks for the info... I am running a k&n full flow filter which could be my mistake. Perhaps the amsoil full flow filter has a by pass that is designed to open with less pressure to prevent my very issue. This would allow for easier flow of oil during those first few seconds at start up, therefore showing pressure sooner. I am aware that the bypass filter does not have a by pass valve.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Mobil 1 M1-301

I use Mobil 1 M1-301 filters for my ATF and full flow engine oil. You always want the oil to flow thru the filter and not bypass it. I only put about 3,000 miles per year on my Sport so I change the oil and filters based on time instead of mileage. I need to order another Amsoil EABP90 bypass filter soon and change my filters and oil. I use Walmart's Super Tech full synthetic 5W30 oil. I'll also order an Amsoil EAA122 drop in air filter. It has superior filtration but less restriction than most filters available on the market.

 

[thorney_5]

I am extremely pleased to report an increase of 2.01 mpg running this oil/system. I got 271.2 miles out of my last tank, on 17.19 gallons of Exxon regular gas. This equates to 15.14 mpg. My previous average was 13.13 mpg. Driving was almost all city, perhaps 20 miles of that tank were on the highway. I hope to further increase my mileage when I get around to fixing up my rear end (HA-HA) and install amsoil synthetic gear lube in the rear diff.


EDIT: my oil analysis on the old Dino oil should be in within the next week. Will post the results when they come. I'm praying for the best.

 

[thorney_5]

Analysis Results

Analysis results are in. My numbers are identical to the averages.... i suppose thats what makes them averages (I confirmed a mistake was not made, as i had first suspected). So regular 4 to 5,000 mile oil changes will get you average numbers. I hope my first analysis with the bypass kit will show reduced wear metals over a longer change interval. I am pleased to see that there is no antifreeze in the oil, something i feared due to a gradual browning of the coolant in the overflow reservoir. Detected fuel in the oil may be a result of the Amsoil flush product i used.

After ~2000 miles, the oil retains its new look and smell.

 

[thorney_5]

After three thousand miles, it was time to change the full flow filter. The next change will be at 5,000 miles, and following that I will change the full flow every 10,000 miles, or at every oil change. Dissection of the used K&N filter showed large amounts of grime and sludge. Contrary to what some may expect, I was very pleased. This is a sign that the synthetic oil along with the dual filter set up is working to clean out the engine. I look forward to dissecting the bypass filter in 2,000 miles to see the contents. After that, it will be changed with every other full flow filter.

The oil is beginning to darken, however this is expected. An oils color does not determine it effectiveness. When the bypass filter is changed, I will send an oil sample to blackstone and base when I will change the oil off of their recommendations.

So far I am very pleased with the system. I have had zero issues to date. Last week I installed an oil temperature gauge (along with trans temp, water temp and vacuum) to better monitor the engines health. The oil seems to hover around 200* Fahrenheit. An oil cooler may be in the future...

The above reported mileage increase has fallen from 2.01 to an average increase of 1.9 miles/gallon. Expected, considering that was based only on one tank of fuel.

 

[2000StreetRod]

no need for cooler

. . . Last week I installed an oil temperature gauge (along with trans temp, water temp and vacuum) to better monitor the engines health. The oil seems to hover around 200* Fahrenheit. An oil cooler may be in the future. . .

From what I've read the optimum engine oil temperature is 215 degrees F. Just enough above the boiling point of water to help remove water vapor from the oil. Based on that I installed a Canton Racing 215 degree thermostat to control flow to my external oil cooler. I monitor the oil temperature at the inlet to my remote filter. So far this year the oil temperature only reached 185 degrees in stop and go driving with an ambient temperature of 84 degrees. Unless you tow, hill climb, race, drive in the desert or spend hours in bumper to bumper traffic I doubt an external engine oil cooler is warranted. If you add an external cooler you should add a thermostat control or your winter fuel economy will suffer.

 

[thorney_5]

Wow thank you for sharing that... I was actually worried about high oil temps. I presume with 200 degrees at the filter mount, the engine is seeing about the optimal temperature.

On a side note, what would you think about a 205 degree water temperature on a 106 degree day? This situation happened to me yesterday and I was a little worried, but since I am new to actual values for this and my stock gauge stayed put, I assumed it was nothing unusual.

One final question... Hope you don't mind... At what temperature does the 5r55e open the external cooling loop? My temp sensor (in the drivers side test port) shows a spike of nearly 190 degrees during initial warm up (I'd say first 15-20 minutes of driving) and then drops rapidly down to between 148 and 156. At this point it's very difficult to get it beyond 160, even while towing on a steep grade. I have the factory auxiliary cooler along with a second aux cooler and filter. Both coolers have thermostatically controlled fans attached. (on at ~163, off at ~155). I really wish that 190 degree spike didn't occur, and I wonder why the transmission allows the fluid to get that hot before circulating it through the coolers. The tranny is a BRAND new unit, installed approx. 20k miles ago.

 

[2000StreetRod]

5R55E external loop

According to available documentation the 5R55E opens the external cooling loop when the ATF in the torque converter is 150 degrees F. However, on mine I found thru experimentation that there is some flow even at cold start. As far as I know my 5R55E is stock. I also have two auxiliary ATF coolers but no blowers for them. I have to drive about 20 minutes before the ATF at the inlet to the full flow filter reaches 150 degrees. I have the stock mechanical clutch radiator fan instead of electric. Using my remote sensing hand held thermometer I measure my radiator core temperature periodically. It usually is below 150 degrees which complements the 5R55E internal thermostat. On the day I was caught in heavy traffic the ATF temp increased to 155 degrees. Do you have the stock radiator? In 1997 when the SOHC V6 became available Ford installed a double row radiator with a 2 inch thick core.

After a few years they cheaped out to a single row radiator with a 1 inch thick core in the two inch deep radiator frame.

I replaced my stock single row with a new double row and no longer have any cooling concerns. Sometimes my 195 thermostat sticks and the engine coolant temperature sensor reads 200 degrees.

 

[thorney_5]

You have likely discovered my problem. When I first got my truck the radiator that was on it had expanded and bent the bottom of the radiator frame, but was not leaking. As a precaution I replaced it, and not knowing about the 1/2 row difference, installed a single row radiator. If this extremely hot weather we're having here persists, and coolant temps remain high, I will install a dual row unit and replace the thermostat.

Do you think that an electric cooling fan with a higher flow rate (~3100 cfm) could also remedy this issue? The idea has been on my mind for awhile, and this may just be the time to finally pull the trigger.

I truly appreciate your help.

 

[2000StreetRod]

2 row vs cooling fan

One disadvantage of the double row radiator core is there is insufficent clearance between the rear of the core and the front of the water pump hub to install a high capacity electric cooling fan. I chose the higher capacity radiator over the electric fan. There are very few electric fans that can compete with the mechanical fan for max air flow. One long range possibility is to install an electric water pump, cut the shaft off the mechanical pump, remove the impellar, plug the shaft opening and reinstall the water pump casting. Then there woud be room for an adequate capacity electric cooling fan but there probably wouldn't be enough serpentine belt wrap around the crankshaft without the water pump pulley.

 

[thorney_5]

I see. I will probably just go with the 2 row radiator and forget the electric fan. While I was hoping to get one from a mileage standpoint, I would not be comfortable sacrificing cooling system effectiveness. It will also save me a few hundred dollars.

 

[thorney_5]

Update

Just got back the 3000 mile analysis from Blackstone and got a picture of the 3000 mile filter cut open. I wonder why the flashpoint is consistently low, between the old dino oil and the new Amsoil. It will be interesting to see the result of the next sample.