And yet another cranks, no start question!

[mikecon3]

Hi all,

I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Limited, 4.0L 6 cylinder, automatic transmission with 142K miles. I've read through alot of posts on this subject, and have tried alot of different things, but I think I'm at the point I need some help.

The engine cranks fine, but just won't start. Here's where I'm at.

No codes.
Gas tank is full with new gas.
I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key.
I have two keys, tried them both. No flashing alarm lights when I turn the key.
Check Engine light comes on when I turn the key on, goes off when I crank it.
Checked the fuel inertia switch, it was fine.
I replaced the fuel filter although I don't think it was bad. Fuel comes out the filter when the key is turned. Reconnected.
Checked all fuses, swapped the horn and fuel pump relay, horn still worked.
I've got spark at the plugs.
Sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body, didn't start.

No fuel at the schrader valve. Put the fuel pressure gage on and it read zero. Turn the key on several times, no pressure. Figured there was air in the line from changing the fuel filter. Jumpered pins 3 and 5 of the fuel pump relay to make it run continuously without running my battery down, and the pressure goes up to between 15-20 psi. As soon as it's turned off, the pressure goes back to zero. I've done this a dozen times, same outcome.

Tried starting it when I knew there was gas at the valve, still wouldn't start.

Everything I have read here would suggest the fuel pump is bad because of the low pressure and the pressure dropping to zero immediately after turning the key off. But I also thought that spraying the starting fluid into the throttle body would start it even if the pump was bad. So I'm not sure if I'm dealing with a bad pump AND some sort of electrical problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[2000StreetRod]

low & rapid drop fuel pressure

When the pump runs continuously and the pressure is still low the problem could be a weak pump, a split supply hose in the fuel tank, a defective intank fuel pressure regulator (FPR), or a restriction in the external lines, filter, or fuel rail. Since the pressure drops to zero as soon as the pump stops running I suspect the problem is the intank supply hose or FPR.

Which engine do you have? I suspect 15 psi would be adequate for the engine to start. Perhaps it was flooded due to cranking the starter a lot. Did you try holding the accelerator to the floor when cranking?

 

[mikecon3]

I have the 4.0L EFI-SOHC 6 cylinder.

I have read in this forum that most people are expecting around 60 psi. There was a link posted regarding testing the fuel system that said 45-58 psi for direct port injection, but 13-17 psi for throttle body injection. As I wouldn't know the difference, this has thrown alot of doubt my way.

I did try with the accelerator to the floor, no luck.

From what you have detailed, it would appear that one or more things are wrong inside my fuel tank. I will try to visually check all the lines to see if any are crimped. I don't have any leaks under the car, so I don't think it's a hole or loose connection.

 

[2000StreetRod]

65 psi

In 1999 the Explorer went from a lower pressure return fuel system to a higher pressure returnless fuel system. The specified pressure for your vehicle is 65 +/- 8 psi: Ford Explorer Ranger Fuel pressure test procedure

There is a hose between the fuel pump and the FPR that can split.

There is also a hose between the FPR and the top of the assembly that can split.

There is a check valve in the assembly that prevents the loss of pressure when the pump isn't running. If the hose isn't split the check valve could be stuck open. Since your pressure is low and drops immediately to zero when the pump isn't running I suspect a split hose: Fuel pump replacement - 2000 Explorer Sport

 

[mikecon3]

Thanks 2000StreetRod, I'll drop the tank and post what I find.

 

[mikecon3]

Split in hose on fuel pump

Good call 2000StreetRod! Finally got the tank down and the pump out, the split in the hose was obvious. I'll figure out how to post pics and show the split. Now I get to wait another week to put it back together and see if it will start with a new pump. Thanks!

 

[mikecon3]

New Pump installed

Received my new fuel pump and replaced. Got the tank reinstalled and put in 10 gallons of gas. Turned the key, pressure went up to around 60 psi and stayed there! Great!

Tried to start, no luck. It came close a couple of times, but it just wasn't going to happen. With the fuel problem apparently solved, time to move on.

Started pulling plugs on the driver's side. The plug closest to the driver and the middle plug were firing, but they were extremely worn. When I pulled the plug boot off the one closest to the front, the metal electrode was in the boot. This could be a problem!

Replaced the 3 plugs on the drivers side, VICTORY! So it would appear that I had at least two problems... split hoses on my fuel pump (the fuel pump could have had other problems as well), and a broken plug. Whether it would have started with the split hose @15psi if I had changed the plug first will remain a topic of debate.

My next question which I'll probably put in another thread...how in the world do you get to the plugs on the passenger side?! I had a hard enough time getting the ones out on the drivers side, and all the A/C stuff is on the passenger side.

Thanks for the help!

 

[2000StreetRod]

changing spark plugs

. . . My next question which I'll probably put in another thread...how in the world do you get to the plugs on the passenger side?! I had a hard enough time getting the ones out on the drivers side, and all the A/C stuff is on the passenger side. . .

Just do a search for "replacing spark plugs" or a similar phrase. There are numerous threads available. I remove the wheel and the splash shield and access the plugs from underneath.

 

[Lotussavage]

Hi all,

I have a 1999 Ford Explorer Limited, 4.0L 6 cylinder, automatic transmission with 142K miles. I've read through alot of posts on this subject, and have tried alot of different things, but I think I'm at the point I need some help.

The engine cranks fine, but just won't start. Here's where I'm at.

No codes.
Gas tank is full with new gas.
I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key.
I have two keys, tried them both. No flashing alarm lights when I turn the key.
Check Engine light comes on when I turn the key on, goes off when I crank it.
Checked the fuel inertia switch, it was fine.
I replaced the fuel filter although I don't think it was bad. Fuel comes out the filter when the key is turned. Reconnected.
Checked all fuses, swapped the horn and fuel pump relay, horn still worked.
I've got spark at the plugs.
Sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body, didn't start.

No fuel at the schrader valve. Put the fuel pressure gage on and it read zero. Turn the key on several times, no pressure. Figured there was air in the line from changing the fuel filter. Jumpered pins 3 and 5 of the fuel pump relay to make it run continuously without running my battery down, and the pressure goes up to between 15-20 psi. As soon as it's turned off, the pressure goes back to zero. I've done this a dozen times, same outcome.

Tried starting it when I knew there was gas at the valve, still wouldn't start.

Everything I have read here would suggest the fuel pump is bad because of the low pressure and the pressure dropping to zero immediately after turning the key off. But I also thought that spraying the starting fluid into the throttle body would start it even if the pump was bad. So I'm not sure if I'm dealing with a bad pump AND some sort of electrical problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I have the same issue with my Ford Explorer xlt 1999. I tried it all and still nothing. Please keep me updated if you figure out what's wrong with yours. Thank you so much.