Angle grinder safety, and shop safety in general. learn from snj's mistake. | Page 2 | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

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Angle grinder safety, and shop safety in general. learn from snj's mistake.

Iknow this isnt the first time i have brought this up, but i feel that tool safety is important and often over looked. I also feel that its important to learn from ones mistakes and hope that you can lear from mine.

Im typing this solely with my right hand after just getting home from holy name hospital, in teaneck nj. Im going to attempt to recount my day as best i can but it all happened real quick.

i had done some heavy work to clearance the left fender and pleased with the results igot to work on the right side. i transfered the measurements i wanted over to the pass side, and got to cutting. i was moving quicker then the left as all the figuring was done. lesson 1 should have been to treat it with the same care i guess. I was cutting the inner fender support at the bottom of the fender from the inside of the wheel well with the fender on the truck. i have no safety guard on the grinder i was useing, or any of the ones i own for that matter. i moved the tool wich was in my right hand and apparently my left hand as well. the two met in the middle with the wheel contacting the knuckle of the pointer of my left hand. i knew i hit but didn't feel a thing. i shut the tool off and did a quick inventory, still had 10 fingers, and a good amount of blood. i grabed a paper tpwel to apply presure but wasnt able to effectively slow it. i then grabed the nearest roll of electrical tape to wrap it. i saw how long it was, but coulnt get a veiw of how deep.
at this point it dawns on me im in a garage under an apartment building with the door down and im alone.
i wrapped the finger as tight as i could and walked over to the rite aid across the street. i figured id get gauze and tape and what not and try and clean it, stop the bleeding and asses the situation. rather then say anything to anyone i grab some supplies and some crazy glue, ya know incase its real bad, and proceed to the checkout, i got on line and that was as far as i got under my own power, i got dizzy and before i could process anything fell over and passed out. i'm told i was out for a minute or so. manager called 911 and i was up by the time the cops came, followed by the amazing bogota volunteer ambulance (they reallly were great)
since i was conscious i was talking and described what had happened etc...
the one thing i did do right is applied enough pressure to stop the bleeding on my own by the time the medic cut my makeshift wrapping off
because i went down off to the er i went for stitches a tetanus shot and an ekg. fortuneately it was pretty cleen for a grinder cut. the doctor who stitched me said it looked like a knife wound and it was only a couple of stiches to put me back together.

all in all it could have been way worse. everyone was real nice and we all talked and joked through the whole post fainting events, so i cant even say i had a bad time of it

point here is that you need to take your time and be carefull and aware of what your doing at all times. no matter how much we can say it wont happen to me it can.

let this be a reminder to all of you to be safe out there.

im not unwraping it for yoy gore seekers, but here
IMG_1097.jpg
 



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96eb96

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Thanks for posting this thread, hopefully others will learn that an angle grinder is very serious business.

Table saws are also very dangerous too, the wood can jam between the fence and blade, get thrown across the room, while the user can fall directly into the path of the blade.

I'm going to be wearing a face shield now for any power/rotary tool work. I've also seen people get injured from using weed wackers that kick up pebbles and stones.
 



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94fourdoor

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Glad your O.K. bud! Been reading your build up from page one over the last couple of days and just thought that I would drop you a get well soon post!
 






OneLever

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Bumping this for the holidays. It's getting cold and slippery out there. Very easy to take the wrong shortcuts and end up paying for it dearly. Thanks for sharing the wisdom guys.
 






chad551

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Tools And Their REAL Uses


DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching
flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the
chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against
that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere
under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes
fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about
the time it takes you to say, "Yeou ......."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age.

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation
of blood-blisters. The most often the tool used by all women.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to
transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the
conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various
flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the
grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or
½ socket you've been searching for, for the last 45 minutes.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack
handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile
upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any
known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible
future use.

RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops
to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of
everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes
called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine
vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health
benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at
about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during,
say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark
than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under
lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing
oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to
strip out Phillips screw heads. Women excel<
 






GRNMACHINE

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Love It Chad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!!!!
 






Fix4Dirt

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Love It Chad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!!!!
what holiday is it ;) my brain is fried, barely know what day it is
 






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