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annoying cruise control switch lightbulb!

JT624

Member
Joined
May 17, 2007
Messages
13
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City, State
Providence, RI
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLT
Does anyone know where to find a replacement bulb for the left side cruise on/off switch? It's inside the switch itself and is a tiny bulb set into a twist lock base. The base is blue plastic and has a 1/4 nut built-in so you can turn it with a nutdriver to lock it into the circuit board.

I haven't tried the dealer yet but nobody else seems to stock these things. My wheel is half dark at night and it bugs me...:confused:
 



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I don't think the bulb is replaceable.
 












I read somewhere (it may have been on here) that you are expected to change out the entire switch. I don't want to pay for a new switch just to replace a lightbulb though. Maybe I can hack something together.
 






There are lots of posts on this. It is replaceable but IF you go with the dealer specific one then the cost of the bulb is as expensive (almost) as a new switch. .... its because of the nice blue color which is a "skin" over a "normal" bulb. If I recall, a clear replacement is $2-3... but you have to get an "imaginative" ford parts guy to figure out which one that would be... take the sample in to help. A "generic" replacement from radio shack or equivalent "mini bulb" can also be used by "unwiring" the bulb from the base (carefully). Anyways, its doable either way.
 






Cheap and easy fix!

Okay, I took the advice of budwich and went to Radio shack and found a 12V replacement.

This was an easy fix - it cost $1.39 for the bulb and it took about 1/2 hour total time. I disconnected my battery before I started because I'm always paranoid that I'll accidentally blow off the airbag.

First, pop the 2 plastic side plugs out of the steering wheel shroud and remove the screws under there with a 1/4" nutdriver.

Then pull the center airbag pack out of your way, turn it sideways and it will sit right in the wheel just fine while you work.

Remove the harness going to the cruise control switch you are working on and then remove the 2 screws that hold the assembly in place.

Getting the switch apart is a little tricky. Pull out the front rubber (buttons) piece on the edge that is normally towards the outside of the steering wheel. I used my fingernails for this but a screwdriver might work too. With a small screwdriver or other implement, you'll need to reach inside and release the two plastic clips that hold the circuit board in place. Once this is done the whole things comes apart. Just peel the rubber now to get at the board.

The light bulb socket is obvious, turn it until the two contact tabs align with the openings in the circuit board cutout and it will come out easily. Don't lose the little green slip on cover (that is what makes the light color look right and it's very easy to lose)

bulb_1.jpg


Next, you will need to break the bulb and then grab the innards with a pair of needle nose pliers. You may have to mess around a bit but it should come out in one piece. (There is a little blob of hot glue that you need to break free inside the socket base). Once the bulb is free, you will need to carefully snip off the two wires at the metal tabs of the socket.

Now take your replacement bulb and carefully remove the clear sheath of insulation around the wires. There was about 1/2" of hard hot glue at the base so I used a bic lighter to heat it up (just quickly) and then while it was warm I was able to pull each lead off to one side. again with the lighter, heat the glue on the new bulb and push it into the plastic socket. In my case it snugged right in nicely. Next I pulled back the insulation on each wire and wrapped the exposed copper strands around the silver connector tabs about 3 times per side, then clipped them neatly.

bulb_2.jpg
bulb_3.jpg


bulb_4.jpg
bulb_5.jpg


Now you can reinstall the new bulb into the circuit board and turn it to lock it in. it may be a tight squeeze with the new wire wrapped around but it will fit and the tension will hold the wires in place once it locks. Don't forget to put the little green piece over the new bulb. In this case the replacement was the same size so it fit on perfectly but for other sizes, you may need a dab of contact cement or something to hold it in place. Next, stretch the rubber button face around the circuit board and position it in the back shell. Once you have aligned all of the edges, it should push together and click back into place.

The rest is reverse of the first steps. I opted to plug the circuit board into the harness as a test before final assembly but all worked fine so it's probably not necessary. Use caution when prying the switch apart because that little circuit board is fairly flimsy and you don't want to crack it. I also don't need to tell anyone to BE CAREFUL with the airbag.

Have fun and fix that annoying dark half of your steering wheel!
:thumbsup:
 






good write up, great surgery. Just to repeat for others, the "surgery" doesn't have to be a "drastic" as there is a cheaper ford clear bulb replacement that drops in (ie. it has the same base). The only thing that you have to do is switch over the colored cover. I left off the cover on my "effort" a while ago and the light is brighter on one side but its better than no light.
 






That is a good point. It could have been replaced with a new oem bulb assy. a bit easier.

I am from the "fix it for cheap" school. I figured if I ended up screwing things up I would just get a replacement bulb or switch. I couldn't justify spending 14 or 15 bucks for a simple light bulb though without trying to fix it. I'm old fashioned and "yankee cheap"!
 






JT964's method worked for me. It took less than 30 minutes and the hardest thing for me was getting the insulation off the tiny wires on the new bulb.

Thanks all.
 












A neat way to strip wire is to heat it for just a few seconds with a bic lighter then pinch the insulation with the nails of two fingers and pull it right off. Works really well once you catch on to it. I do it with bigger wires now even.
 






hmmm, my new-to-me eBay cruise control switches are in beautiful condition, but the SET/RESUME/COAST switch's bulb is out. my old switches were a mess, but the bulbs are still good. I tried (not very hard) to pry what's left of the old switches button covers off, but they just seem to be disintegrating like dried up play dough. I'm sure I can salvage the bulbs, but I'm afraid I'll mess up my new switches trying to take them apart. any suggestions?

it's really not that big a deal, as I don't drive at night much, I just like everything to work (it's an OCD thing). I cut what remained of the old switch cover with a pocket knife. it was like cutting hard cheese. there's no way it was going to come off in one piece.
 






Koda,

Just be careful. If I were to do it over again, I would disconnect the switch (2 screws), unplug it and take it to the work bench. You can then see all around the switch and pick your spot to start prying with a small screw driver or your finger nails. It snaps in, but just takes a gentle pry all around the edges, like getting the lid off a cottage cheese container.

I was driving last night and my new light is a little dimmer than the other side, but better than none at all.
 






Koda,

Just be careful. If I were to do it over again, I would disconnect the switch (2 screws), unplug it and take it to the work bench. You can then see all around the switch and pick your spot to start prying with a small screw driver or your finger nails. It snaps in, but just takes a gentle pry all around the edges, like getting the lid off a cottage cheese container.

I was driving last night and my new light is a little dimmer than the other side, but better than none at all.

well, maybe I'll give it a try starting on the inside edge, but if the cover has reached the "cheese" stage there's no way it will come off in one piece. if it starts to break, I'll just leave it alone.

Update:
So I removed my new'ish switch and, as gently and carefully as I could, I pried up on the button cover. I discovered you must start on the outside edge. At first it didn't want to come free, but it showed no sign of disintegrating, so I kept at it. Then the top seemed to come free followed by the bottom. The circuit board came off with the cover. That was not what I was expecting. The problem is that the 2 clips that hold the board in the lower piece broke off. No big deal, as I still had the bottom from my old switch, which I then reused. I swapped in the working bulb and tested it. It lit up, so I reassembled the switch, board and cover. Now I'm waiting for dark to see if they're both going to work. Trying to see in daylight with a towel over my head it looked like the ON/OFF switch was now not lit (it worked last night). If that bulb isn't working now I concede defeat.
 






well, maybe I'll give it a try starting on the inside edge, but if the cover has reached the "cheese" stage there's no way it will come off in one piece. if it starts to break, I'll just leave it alone.

Update:
So I removed my new'ish switch and, as gently and carefully as I could, I pried up on the button cover. I discovered you must start on the outside edge. At first it didn't want to come free, but it showed no sign of disintegrating, so I kept at it. Then the top seemed to come free followed by the bottom. The circuit board came off with the cover. That was not what I was expecting. The problem is that the 2 clips that hold the board in the lower piece broke off. No big deal, as I still had the bottom from my old switch, which I then reused. I swapped in the working bulb and tested it. It lit up, so I reassembled the switch, board and cover. Now I'm waiting for dark to see if they're both going to work. Trying to see in daylight with a towel over my head it looked like the ON/OFF switch was now not lit (it worked last night). If that bulb isn't working now I concede defeat.

I just went outside and checked - success! both working.
 












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