Unfortunately the four lines running there along the frame are hard lines, three steel and one aluminum. The large AL one is the emissions line going back to the fuel tank charcoal canister. That one would be easy to deal with. The two fuel lines end up near the UCA rear mount, and the brake line runs up to the ABS module. Those three would be tough to move.
I was considering if it had to be done, I'd remake those and bend new lines to stay inside the frame, through the boxed part where that heat shield is, and come out a hole cut in the top of the frame near where the originals go now(where the UCA bolt is hell to get in and out because of the lines). I have cut and flared brake line ends about five times, very carefully each time, without leaks. It is not easy, but with care can be done fine. But that is not a desired project, I avoid doing those critical flares.
The fuel lines will be relatively easy to make that change, because for much higher power, larger fuel lines are required anyway. If you're going that route, when installing bigger 6AN hoses, and fuel filter etc, making the flexible hoses go through a hole in the frame is not a big deal really. There has to be solid mounting of fuel and brake lines to keep them still and safe from wear or crushing.
So the hard part is mainly the one brake line. If you think you can clear out the area along there and cut the brake line around where the fuel filter is, to flare it, and add a new section bent to perfectly fit the frame and come up through it safely, the others are not that bad to deal with. I hadn't thought this all through in detail, until now. But that's really it, if you can get the lines off the inner surface of the frame, then the heat shield can be pushed up against the frame there, say an 1/8" from it, and you gain likely an inch there. The pinion outlet and driveshaft for a 4WD stop you from moving the collector down much. But a 2WD has more space there to work with, to make the turn to the right side.