Another "gas gauge" problem

[todd_adams2001]

Well, First let me say that my gas gauge isn't working and no, I don't want to go by my odometer..........just annoying. Anyways, I found what I thought was my problem last week. I took my sending unit out, and found the float cracked in two places. To make a long story short; I replaced the sending unit. and the gas gauge still isn't working. It's still showing empty. They might be a little movement when I turn the key on, but not enough to brag about......I assume I need to check the wires from the plug-in behind my rear driver side tire to my instrument panel? I looked over them but all seems fine. Would my problem possibly be the gauge itself inside the instrument panel??? And, if I tear my dash off again, for this, what Should I look for?? Please any help is greatly appreciated..........Frustrated in Kentucky

BTW..........If anyone reading this needs to get to your sending unit.....take the back seats out, and fold the carpet outta the way and remove the black plastic thing. Get a Dremmel Tool and start cutting.

 

[mikeinri]

I have seen this discussed on the forum. If you spend some time with the search feature on this site, you should be able to find the voltage ranges that equate to empty and full on the gauge.

Mike

 

[todd_adams2001]

Thanks for the reply Mike.

Yeah, I've found several threads on here, searching, but really no answer, or oppinion if maybe the problem can lie in the gauge itself, inside the instrument panel.... I have a Haynes manuel also, and it doesn't go into much detail about this sort of problem. Guess, I'll tear my dash back out (for the 4th time) and take my instrument panel off (for the 1st time) and check everything out back there......

 

[Bwana Bob]

As I recall from my own measurements, with the sensor unplugged, at empty reads low, a few ohms. At full it reads 150-160 ohms.

Bob

 

[mikeinri]

I would get a replacement gauge before you take out the panel (that way, you're ready in case it's bad).

Remove the connector from the back of the gauge. If you're getting proper readings at the sending unit, and you get proper readings at the connector, it's a bad gauge. If you get proper readings at the sending unit only, you have a wiring problem (between the sending unit and the gauge) to fix first, then test the gauge when the wiring is corrected. Hopefully, you don't have a wiring problem, those are the worst to find.

Mike

 

[todd_adams2001]

Thanks Bob and Mike.

...........I'll read back over these posts tomorrow and do what you'll said..... I just got done replacing my valve pan gaskets today and shew, what a job that was !

 

[todd_adams2001]

well, I checked the resistance on the new sending unit and it is good. now, I have my instrument panel out, but don't know how to check the gauge. I unplugged it off the plastic piece and the fuel gauge has 3 prongs that plug into the plastic. I'm reading continuity on all 3 prongs. The 2 electrical plug-ins that plug into the plast (inst. panel, on the back)-----I don't know which wire goes to the float???? - to check the wiring for resistance????

.....boy, what a pain to get the instrument panel out....shew, had to disconnect the speedo cable from the transfer case, just to get enough slack to unhook everything from the instrument panel.......Now, I have it all apart and don't know what / how to check everything........lol............

 

[gsmaclean]

BTW..........If anyone reading this needs to get to your sending unit.....take the back seats out, and fold the carpet outta the way and remove the black plastic thing. Get a Dremmel Tool and start cutting.

Just out of interest, how did you know where to cut? How large an area did you cut open, and what did you do to seal it up again afterwards? I'd much rather do this than drop the tank from below.

 

[todd_adams2001]

Just out of interest, how did you know where to cut? How large an area did you cut open, and what did you do to seal it up again afterwards? I'd much rather do this than drop the tank from below.

My sending unit is underneath that bolt that holds the plastic piece down on the driver side, if I'm not mistaken...... I cut a little square hole, just enough to get my hand down through and felt around for the fuel lines. Once I felt the fuel lines and the top of the sending unit, I cut out a slightly bigger square hole............Now, when I say "hole" I left enough metal on there, where I can bend it back. In other words, make 3 cuts on a square and notch the 4 cut, so it'll bend easy. After you get done, bend it back down, and lay the silicone to the seams......

If you can wait 'till about thursday, I'll give ya some measurements and pictures of exactly where the sending unit is.......

Hope this helps, yea it sure beats dropping the tank......Ooh, and unless your better than me at uncoupling those fuel lines with the "proper tool', lol...I'd run out and buy some of those "retaining clips". Their in the "Help" section at my local Advance Auto store......

 

[gsmaclean]

My sending unit is underneath that bolt that holds the plastic piece down on the driver side, if I'm not mistaken...... I cut a little square hole, just enough to get my hand down through and felt around for the fuel lines. Once I felt the fuel lines and the top of the sending unit, I cut out a slightly bigger square hole............Now, when I say "hole" I left enough metal on there, where I can bend it back. In other words, make 3 cuts on a square and notch the 4 cut, so it'll bend easy. After you get done, bend it back down, and lay the silicone to the seams......

If you can wait 'till about thursday, I'll give ya some measurements and pictures of exactly where the sending unit is.......

Hope this helps, yea it sure beats dropping the tank......Ooh, and unless your better than me at uncoupling those fuel lines with the "proper tool', lol...I'd run out and buy some of those "retaining clips". Their in the "Help" section at my local Advance Auto store......

I just got a new sender retaining ring from rockauto.com (I'm assuming that the one that's on there will be rusted and will break apart upon removal), and I think I'll have a go at it this weekend, so any pics/measurements would be great, thanks.

Those fuel (and A/C) couplers drive me nuts. I have the proper tools, but they never seem to unclick like they're supposed to. Then, when I've all but given up, I realize that it's actually loose, and it undid.

 

[todd_adams2001]

I just got a new sender retaining ring from rockauto.com (I'm assuming that the one that's on there will be rusted and will break apart upon removal), and I think I'll have a go at it this weekend, so any pics/measurements would be great, thanks.

Those fuel (and A/C) couplers drive me nuts. I have the proper tools, but they never seem to unclick like they're supposed to. Then, when I've all but given up, I realize that it's actually loose, and it undid.

Ooh yea, I laid the chisel/punch to mine and it just kept breaking those little pieces off........finally I got frustrated and took a screwdriver to it.........I got it off, but it didn't look round anymore

huh,........maybe I've been "uncoupling" them then, and not knowing it...lol....I went and bought that little "tool" and got it to slide back in there all the way, but had to clamp visegrips on the line and beat it off with a hammer........I'm just glad advance had those "retaining clips" that goes back inside the fuel line......

Yea, I'll send ya some pictures of mine and some measurements, and, it'll give ya a good idea, about where it's at.....BTW, I believe I went through about 3-4 cut-off blades on my dremel, sooo, ya might wont to have a few handy. Also, using the dremel to cut is a little "tedious" work. I didn't think it was gonna cut through it at first, but once you cut through, it goes pretty well. AND Be Sure To Do A Gas Check........as us coal miners call it. You don't want to throw a spark and ignite anything (gas)

 

[gsmaclean]

Ooh yea, I laid the chisel/punch to mine and it just kept breaking those little pieces off........finally I got frustrated and took a screwdriver to it.........I got it off, but it didn't look round anymore

huh,........maybe I've been "uncoupling" them then, and not knowing it...lol....I went and bought that little "tool" and got it to slide back in there all the way, but had to clamp visegrips on the line and beat it off with a hammer........I'm just glad advance had those "retaining clips" that goes back inside the fuel line......

I used very little force at all - it was just a matter of "jiggling" it around once the tool was inserted all the way. I don't really know how I did it, I just know I did not force it at all.

Yea, I'll send ya some pictures of mine and some measurements, and, it'll give ya a good idea, about where it's at.....BTW, I believe I went through about 3-4 cut-off blades on my dremel, sooo, ya might wont to have a few handy. Also, using the dremel to cut is a little "tedious" work. I didn't think it was gonna cut through it at first, but once you cut through, it goes pretty well. AND Be Sure To Do A Gas Check........as us coal miners call it. You don't want to throw a spark and ignite anything (gas)

I figure I'll use my angle grinder with a cutter wheel in it, it should go through that metal in a few seconds. I use my dremel tool for tiny things, and plastic and such. Too frustrating otherwise.

 

[todd_adams2001]

I used very little force at all - it was just a matter of "jiggling" it around once the tool was inserted all the way. I don't really know how I did it, I just know I did not force it at all.



I figure I'll use my angle grinder with a cutter wheel in it, it should go through that metal in a few seconds. I use my dremel tool for tiny things, and plastic and such. Too frustrating otherwise.

hmmmmmm....angle grinder huh......I'd be Xtra Cautious then........you sure don't want to cut any deeper than the metal is.....the clearance down there isn't much, especially around the fuel lines. They're pretty close to the bottom side of the metal. I'd advise a dremel. If I had known exactly where the thing was, it wouldn't had took me 5 minutes or less with my dremel, and just one cut-off blade. But again, Be VERY CAUTIOUS with a angle grinder and a larger cut-off wheel.

BTW, why exactly did you say ya need to get to your sending unit, just curious? I gotta try and finish fixing my gas gauge problem this weekend too.

 

[gsmaclean]

hmmmmmm....angle grinder huh......I'd be Xtra Cautious then........you sure don't want to cut any deeper than the metal is.....the clearance down there isn't much, especially around the fuel lines. They're pretty close to the bottom side of the metal. I'd advise a dremel. If I had known exactly where the thing was, it wouldn't had took me 5 minutes or less with my dremel, and just one cut-off blade. But again, Be VERY CAUTIOUS with a angle grinder and a larger cut-off wheel.

BTW, why exactly did you say ya need to get to your sending unit, just curious? I gotta try and finish fixing my gas gauge problem this weekend too.

I can adjust the guard on my grinder so that it only comes out 1/8" or so, so it can't go through too far.

I've got a non-functioning gas gauge, same as you, I'm hoping just pulling the sender, fixing the cracked float and putting it back in will solve the problem. Carrying a "just in case" jerrycan of fuel in the back is getting old now that it's getting warm and it's venting fuel fumes inside the truck.

 

[todd_adams2001]

Well, Update on gas gauge problem.............gas gauge still isn't working. My Sending Unit is working up to the plug-in behind the firewall. I've read resistance on it, that far. Now these couple wires is tied in with a bundle of wires..............SOOOOOOOOOOO I give up !!!!!!!!! Just wondering if anyone knows if I can buy a fuel gauge "over the counter"...lol Something that I can mount anywhere ??????????

 

[gsmaclean]

When you start the truck, does your fuel gauge move at all (i.e. when you first start cranking it)?

 

[todd_adams2001]

nope. when I turn my key on without cranking engine, it might move a hair, but nothing to BRAG about.........

BTW, did ya get the pictures I sent ya / email ?????

 

[gsmaclean]

nope. when I turn my key on without cranking engine, it might move a hair, but nothing to BRAG about.........

BTW, did ya get the pictures I sent ya / email ?????

Mine definitely jumps when I crank/start, then moves immediately to E.

Nope, no pics/email arrived!

 

[shamaal]

I didn't see where you checked the fuel gauge fuse, perhaps I missed it.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/a9/c7/0900823d800ba9c7/repairInfoPages.htm

You want figure 7.

I don't know how accurate the Haynes book is, it says typical and doesn't appear to be complete. The fuel sender ground line is BK/Y, you should be able to read zero ohms from the BK/Y wire at the sender plug to the chassis. And zero ohms from the Y/W wire on the sender plug to the Y/W wire going to the gauge panel. The wires on the sender for about a foot back from the plug are notorious for oxidizing.

Good luck.

 

[todd_adams2001]

well, I'm reading about 150 ohms on my sending unit's plug-in on a full tank of gas, and I'm reading the same on the plug-in at the firewall. So my problem is between the firewall and the gauge itself. I'm thinking it's the gauge itself, which reminds me I need to check my bid on Ebay I bypassed those wires along the gas tank and the chasis. I run new wires from the sending units plug-in to the front of the gas tank, before I thought to check the plug-in at the firewall........

Does the gas gauge have a fuse?? or anything other than wires?...... I tried clicking on your link their, and I"ll keeeep trying, but it wont pop up.....

Thanks for reply, BTW