Another strut bolt question...

[mitchness]

I've been reading threads about strut bolts in the front getting stuck. I have both new front struts purchased brand new as a complete assembly. My problem is once I make the car inoperational by removing stuff, I literally have no way of getting to the store in case of an oopsie. I wanna just buy brand new everything and have it ready.

This question is the one I need answered the most!
What size, type, thread, etc is the lower bolts connected to the front control arms?

What type nuts should I get for the top?

Should I just buy some new bushings anyways?

Do I really need a bushing kit to get the new assembly on or can I use a c-clamp attached to something?

I been looking at these Titanium ones. I may buy them if I know the size! I can't find anything here regarding size or type!

 

[03WIExplorerLtd]

Is it possible to take a sawzall and cut the bolts if you have a problem? I wouldn't see a problem since there is no tension/load on the boats.

 

[Ronin8002]

According to Fordparts.com, the lower strut bolts are M18-6g X 123. I'm sure it's either grade 8.8 or 10.9

I am pretty sure the top nuts are M9 size, grade 8.8 is fine. Doesn't have to be a flange nut like the existing ones but if you don't get the flanged ones use locknuts and washers.

Which bushings are you talking about?

I've been reading threads about strut bolts in the front getting stuck. I have both new front struts purchased brand new as a complete assembly. My problem is once I make the car inoperational by removing stuff, I literally have no way of getting to the store in case of an oopsie. I wanna just buy brand new everything and have it ready.

This question is the one I need answered the most!
What size, type, thread, etc is the lower bolts connected to the front control arms?

What type nuts should I get for the top?

Should I just buy some new bushings anyways?

Do I really need a bushing kit to get the new assembly on or can I use a c-clamp attached to something?

I been looking at these Titanium ones. I may buy them if I know the size! I can't find anything here regarding size or type!

 

[mitchness]

Thank you very much for your answer. I am registered at Fordparts.com in hopes of ever finding OEM numbers, which they DO NOT provide. If they do, please let me know. I'm talking OEM like 1z-fl43-whatever (example). They just say it's something like (L791). I couldn't find that bolt size anywhere!

EDIT: I can't find anywhere to buy one using various search methods so I'm going to chance it to work. If anyone finds a valid link (price doesn't matter at this point), please feel free to link it/them.Otherwise, I'm gonna call NAPA or Autozone or somewhere. Maybe this industrial supply place may have them.

Again, thank you for that size!

 

[Ronin8002]

The size is on there, you just have to know where to look. For example, go to make/model/year, and fill in your info. Then go to the suspension part category. Look for Tue diagram for the front strut assembly, then click on it to enlarge. You'll see the bolt in the diagram, its labeled hb1. Click on the label and it will take you to the part information, where I think it also gives the part number and ability to order it.

Thank you very much for your answer. I am registered at Fordparts.com in hopes of ever finding OEM numbers, which they DO NOT provide. If they do, please let me know. I'm talking OEM like 1z-fl43-whatever (example). They just say it's something like (L791). I couldn't find that bolt size anywhere!

EDIT: I can't find anywhere to buy one using various search methods so I'm going to chance it to work. If anyone finds a valid link (price doesn't matter at this point), please feel free to link it/them.Otherwise, I'm gonna call NAPA or Autozone or somewhere. Maybe this industrial supply place may have them.

Again, thank you for that size!

 

[mitchness]

OHHH! Thanks again! I cannot click on the label. For some reason, when I enlarge the diagram, it does nothing when I click on it. My widescreen monitor makes the diagram too big for the screen and it won't let me scroll down on it. Either way, you helped a ton! Now if I can only find that info page to order it.

 

[FordFool2]

Mitchness, you will be fine, relax. I just put QuickStruts on all 3 of my Fords (2004 Explorer, 2005 Focus, and 2007 F150). The Explorer denied me on the driver side lower strut bolt. That one required about 4 Sawzall blades to overcome.

First things first is to try to loosen these lower bolts before you take anything else apart. Jack up that corner and see if the bolt will break free. Use penetrating oil 24 hours ahead of time to improve your chances. Only buy a new bolt if it is stuck.

The top nuts on the fronts are a piece of cake. The rear strut upper bolts have one that is a pain. You have to cut away a rubber cushion that is serving no purpose. Just cut away and discard. I used a Sawzall on that one too.

 

[mitchness]

Mitchness, you will be fine, relax. I just put QuickStruts on all 3 of my Fords (2004 Explorer, 2005 Focus, and 2007 F150). The Explorer denied me on the driver side lower strut bolt. That one required about 4 Sawzall blades to overcome.

First things first is to try to loosen these lower bolts before you take anything else apart. Jack up that corner and see if the bolt will break free. Use penetrating oil 24 hours ahead of time to improve your chances. Only buy a new bolt if it is stuck.

The top nuts on the fronts are a piece of cake. The rear strut upper bolts have one that is a pain. You have to cut away a rubber cushion that is serving no purpose. Just cut away and discard. I used a Sawzall on that one too.

^^^ I did all that and now I am SOL Can't fit a sawzall anywhere near it, going to attempt cutting wheels tomorrow, and propane (the only torch I have) just makes it hot. I might have to take my vacation this week because I might not have a way to work...

Oh and for the passenger side, Electric impact worked really well. Just zipped it right off. For the driver's side, all 3 nuts at the top are completely broken now and I have no rubber around the bottom bolt and it's just dangling. Going to try big sledge hammer and a block of steel.

 

[swshawaii]

Probably too late, but still not complete part numbers. GL

http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/partl...04-ford-explorer-1952240-1952704-1590806.html

http://www.worldpartsinfo.com/Ford/...ngs,+2002/2005+From:+11/13/2000To:+07/19/2005

 

[mitchness]

I have some wanted ads posted. Maybe I'll get lucky. I'm still trying the sledgehammer and block of steel. Maybe it will have more leverage than a hammer and socket extension. Heat it with the propane torch first? Might help. Gonna do the cutting wheels today to. I have about 90 of them. Powerful vice grips on the sleeve the bolt is in then breaker bar it? If anything works, be sure I'll tell you!


And thank you very much for the links! I was on the wrong website.

There's also the bus and harbor freight tools. Maybe buy one of them vibrating cutter tools I see working so perfectly on insanely tough projects on TV. They even sell high grade cutting ends. No promises they work considering the source, but worth a try!!!


UPDATE: DONE. 30 minutes. I put a pair of vice grips so tight to the breaking point on the sleeve around the bolt and gave it some twists with the ratchet and pryed out as I unscrewed, and voila, mission accomplished. Thanks to everyone who participated. I know I can be a patience tester sometimes.

 

[FordFool2]

The problem I had with one of these front strut lower bolts was that seized in the strut bushing. The nut on the backside of the lower control arm was not the issue. The bolt corrodes to the bushing sleeve and when you try and turn the bolt all you get is wind-up of the rubber bushing. I used 6' cheaters, 3/4" Snap-On impacts but no luck because they are not turning against anything solid.

I used a Sawzall from the top while huddled in the wheel well. I am pretty sure I had the upper ball joint separated and upper strut mounting nuts removed to allow the lower control arm to swing down. The steering wheel was turned fully left. Then I cut through the strut and bolt near the front edge. The blades wear out because they get hot from the rubber and the bolt is hardeded (grade 8 or above). Then I had to cut again on the trailing edge.

Got blisters just from holding and forcing the Sawzall that long. A cutting torch is the preferred way to go if you have access to one. Be careful of the CV joint boot nearby.

 

[mitchness]

Ok It is definitely out. A new one has taken it's place and my troublesome project is complete. I apologize for the shotty pics, but I was happy and couldn't sit still.

Melt the rubber with a torch. I used a butane and propane (ran out of propane so switched andit worked just fine)
I used a pair of vice grips to the breaking point to hold the steel in place.
Small jack, lift the strut and the control arm will follow.
The old strut works perfectly fine as a hammer so I hit the top of the rotor to force the control arm down a bit.
Pried up on the strut from the top to wiggle it even with the hole and get the bolt lined up and moving freely.
Unscrewed slowly with ratchet and flat head screwdriver pushing on the bolt head.
Tight Squeeze!

Here is the completed passenger assembly.
Mission accomplished. Now for alignment.

 

[808hawn]

Why would Ford design the drivers side front shock like they did? Why have a rubber bushing when the other 3 shocks don't have it?

 

[Ronin8002]

Why would Ford design the drivers side front shock like they did? Why have a rubber bushing when the other 3 shocks don't have it?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/133144952@N03/shares/y23AbR

The other shocks do have it. They just don't get rusted and frozen up for some reason.

 

[Onuma]

I had the same issue, but I just replaced the entire Coil Spring Assembly and Lower Control Arm at once. Dropped it out in one big, heavy piece. It was 100% seized up, and would have taken a lot of effort (or simply an OxAcetylene cutting torch) to get out.

Doing that, however, I had to sacrifice the shock bolt & flanged nut. Ordered the shock bolt from a 3rd party dealer, and the nut & lock washers from my local Grainger. It's worked beautifully for the last couple of months.

 

[808hawn]

The Ford dealership here wanted $32.96 but only sold in a package of 4. So they wanted $131.84. Ended up going to a local salvage yard that had a few Explorers. Got the bolt for $5...