Solved - Another thread about exhaust manifolds replacement on 4.6 v8. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Solved Another thread about exhaust manifolds replacement on 4.6 v8.

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.

Explorer_PL

Explorer Addict
Joined
November 16, 2007
Messages
2,915
Reaction score
222
City, State
Rockland County, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
06EB V8
2006 v8 with 190k miles.
I’ve been debating this for a long while (since about 110k miles), but got really sick of that problem in my Exp and decided to take care of that. First of all, not really a major issue but I still do not like the idea of exhaust gases leaking under my hood, and some of it maybe entering the cab. Never smelled it, so probably it’s just my imagination. Second, I wanted to do it while the weather is still OK here on the east coast, and not be caught up with it in the middle of the winter when my inspection expires and I fail it. And third, I could not stand that noise it was making.
The whole repair took me 2 days. I did passenger side few weeks ago, and it was probably 5 hr affair, and just last week, I did the driver side. Prior to that, I removed both sides of wheel liners, and kept spraying the studs with Kano Kroil oil, same one that is recommended for the spark plugs on these v8’s. I still had it in my garage. I believe it helped some. On both sides, the studs that snapped were cylinders # 4, and #8 .
Just as a refresher: #1 is by the air box, passenger side front, # 4 is passenger side last one by the fire wall, # 5 is by the battery, front, driver side, # 8 is the driver rear by the firewall.
The fact that #4 , and 8 studs were missing already or snapped when I tried to loosen them was a good news since those are not obstructed by the strut tower, and you can get there with some angle drill and some luck. The studs on cylinders 1,2,3,5,6, and 7 came out intact with some efforts. I used a 3/8 breaker bar with 13 mm deep socket, that I cut about 3/4“ shorter to fit over the stud, and between the frame. I avoided using any swivels when breaking them loose as I did not want to introduce any bending or additional stress. Not sure how much that helped. Also, it seems that the studs closest to the down pipe are subjected to most vibration and warping ????
On passenger side, I removed the plastic liner, starter, and unbolted the motor from the mount via 2 18mm nuts. Then I jacked up the engine about 2-3 inches and that helped a lot. I had to drill out the studs on #8 , one came out with reverse drill, the other one I had to drill completely out and tap the hole with new treads. The passenger side is so tight, that I took me a while to pull the old one out of there, and replace it with a new manifold. Impossible with starter in place, and engine on the mount – you need to do both.
On the driver side, disconnected the steering shaft upper joint, and swung it to the front. I was thinking of unbolting the motor on this side as well, but the manifold came out thru the bottom with very small effort. Same as on the other side, one of the broken studs I was able to spin out with a drill, the other I had to tap to 10 mm bolt. One of the studs did not snap, but also did not come out, the nut came off. I needed to lock 2 nuts together to use a wrench since vise grips could not turn that one.
This was by far the biggest PITA job on this truck so far. But it sounds now like a normal car.

The mess of tools and old studs:

IMG_2680_zpsf1332a29.jpg


The driver side, you can see wher it was leaking, also, the downpipe stud snapped.

Before18_zps369bc6a8.jpg


Old manifolds
Before17_zps61dcfaa6.jpg


The one stud that did not come out, and needed 2 nuts locked to create a "head" for a wrench.
Before12_zps31012885.jpg


One of the pieces that I was able to extract
Before10_zps7261efee.jpg


Before9_zps8d743424.jpg


Passenger side replaced and new stainless steel studs
IMG_2763_zps5e02efa1.jpg


Good view at the passenger side engine mount, 2 nuts you need to remove to jack up the engine
IMG_2760_zps4dc1819f.jpg


Passenger side without manifold, once you remove them, there is some room for tools, but nothing great.
IMG_2757_zpsf87d3729.jpg


IMG_2756_zps79c4302b.jpg


The driver side replaced
Before14_zps8e0fb800.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I assume you replaced both mani's? If so, did you have them checked for flatness? Or if not, did you have any resurfaced?

Kudos for doing it yourself. I do not have the patience to take on jobs like that, anymore. I bit the bullet and had both mine resealed for $800 for the pair.
 






My total cost was about $ 270 plus my aggravation and hours of me under the car, with my head thru the wheel opening, over the hood, cursing, and a lot more :)

I bought the passenger side online for $ 108 from Dorman, then the driver side from some Ford online for $ 110, set of gaskets for $ 20, and set of stainless steel studs for $ 26. Dorman does not seem to have the driver side.

I checked and both old ones are not straight, I did not bother with resurfacing as I was not sure if there are any hidden cracks.
 






Shoulda gone with long tube headers as long as you were replacing them! :D


Good Job!
 






Nobody makes them, I would :)
 






s/s studs from amazon? Ford or Felpro gaskets?

Thanks for posting pics, your procedure, tips,etc.
 






I got the studs on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-4-6-5-...ies&hash=item1e7e4e4a8e&vxp=mtr#ht_426wt_1124

I thought that I only had to do the passenger side as there was already a stud missing, and most of the noise was coming from there. I ordered Ford gaskets for that side (2 gaskets per side). Once I replaced the passenger side, the driver side was noisy :)
Then I went to a local auto parts store since I had no time for shipping and waiting and got a set from FelPro for both sides for $20, so I have 2 gaskets left now.
 












Fair warning. I also used a stainless kit.. 3 months later and one of them have already snapped and the classic leaky exhaust manifold sound (until vehicle warms up) is back. Though not as bad as before.
 






Does leaky exhaust manifold shorten the lifespan of the engine? I hear mine tick when I first start up but it goes away as soon as the car is warmed up. It's been a long time. Do I really need to fix it?
 






Yes, get it fixed. It doesn't shorten the lifespan of the engine, but the ability for fresh air to be scavenged in throws off the reading from your oxygen sensors, and this will impact your engine performance and fuel mileage.

Not to mention the fact that not only is it the most irritating noise but it also makes a really nice car sound like a really ****ty car.

Tim
 






I had the dealership change out mine. Broken studs and other issues forced them to pull the engine. After a week and a $1000 (it would have been much more) all was fixed.

Just an FYI of potential issues if you DYI
 






$ 1000 including pulling the engine out at the dealer ?
That's a good price.
 






I have given the dealership alot of business since I got the Mounty. I think he felt sorry for me
 






I had mine pulled to repair it as well. Local shop here charged me $500, but that was definitely the good old boy price.

Tim
 






I am not sure what the difference is between just pulling the engine and removal/replacement when it comes to the cost charts.
When I was shopping to get my engine replaced, just the labor part by the book/electronic estimate was about 20 hrs.
 






The shop that did mine said book time was 6 hours for an R&R, if that helps.

Tim
 






I am doing this on my 2010 Explorer Limited with the rear heat & A/C. The A/C and heating tubes go right in front of the gap where I need to pull out the old manifold. I have the manifold off the engine and studs out, but I am not able to get the manifold out. I think I need to evacuate the A/C lines and drain the coolant in those line and remove them.

Also, having a tough time getting at the motor mounts. It seems like the front driveshaft is in the way. Any tips?
 






I am doing this on my 2010 Explorer Limited with the rear heat & A/C. The A/C and heating tubes go right in front of the gap where I need to pull out the old manifold. I have the manifold off the engine and studs out, but I am not able to get the manifold out. I think I need to evacuate the A/C lines and drain the coolant in those line and remove them.

Also, having a tough time getting at the motor mounts. It seems like the front driveshaft is in the way. Any tips?

If you can move/remove the Y pipe / converter assembly then the manifold will slide out where the pipes go up. It's super tight.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I was able to remove the nuts on the motor mount and lift the motor enough to pull the manifold out from the top.
 






Back
Top