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another timing chain question

Joined
June 13, 2010
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City, State
houston,tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 explorer xlt
So i'm in the process of replacing the front timing chain along with the tensioner and guide. But my question is do I need to remove the valve covers/or heads to do this and also do i need to remove the oil pan to get the front timing cover off? thanks
 



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Replace tensioner & guide only

I have the SOHC v6 engine. its on a 98 ford explorer

Unless you know that your primary timing chain (crankshaft to jackshaft) is bad, I suggest that you only replace the tensioner and possibly the guide. The chains last much longer than the tensioner. The original 3 leaf spring tensioner has been significantly improved to a 6 leaf spring tensioner. You can replace the tensioner and guide without removing the chain or loosening the jackshaft sprocket. That means you would not have to retime the camshafts which requires removing the valve covers and normally requires the special (expensive) timing tool set. You would only have to remove the front timing cover. You would not have to remove the oil pan.

What makes you think that your primary timing chain needs replacement?
 






well I have the famous ticking noise as soon as I start the truck up and after researching on this site it sounds like i have an issue in the timing chain area. I wanted to take the front cover off to see what all i need and if i can get away with just replacing the tensioner and guide and not touch the chain itself that would be great. But i think once i pull the cover off i think i would have a better idea at what all i need. right now i have everything out of the way minus the crank pulley cause i need to buy one. buy i'm hoping after its removed that the cover can come off but wasn't sure about the oil pan and heads needing to come off as well
 












balancer puller

I agree that you'll have a much better idea of what replacements are required after you pull the front cover.

You can rent a puller at most of your local auto parts shops but you'll need to purchase longer bolts than what comes with the puller. I used 100mm long bolts. Also, because the balancer is so deep, you have to pull it in stages using the loosened (but not removed) balancer retaining bolt or a long smaller diameter bolt that fits past the threads in the crankshaft and seats in the bottom.
 






would you happen to have a pic of the tool your talking about cause the one I've seen only has one big bolt through the middle where i guess it pushes against the crank pulley and three claw like forks that grab around the pulley and as you tightened that middle bolt it pushes the pulley out.
 






don't use a gear puller!

would you happen to have a pic of the tool your talking about cause the one I've seen only has one big bolt through the middle where i guess it pushes against the crank pulley and three claw like forks that grab around the pulley and as you tightened that middle bolt it pushes the pulley out.

You're describing a gear puller which can't be used on a crankshaft balancer. The outer section of the balancer is attached to the inner section with a rubber like substance. If you use a gear puller on the balancer you'll damage the rubber like substance and probably separate the inner and outer sections. A balancer puller is shown in the photo below.

Performance Tools 13-Piece Harmonic Balancer Puller


puller.jpg
 






I've read somewhere that the bolts that come in that kit aren't long enough. Do you know what size bolts i need
 












I'm getting ready to do the frt. cassette right now & i'm having trouble getting it out. I still have the heads on. do they need to come off ?
 






^i couldn't help you cause i'm still trying to remove the crank pulley. but i need to find out where i can get the right size bolt for the puller. I tried home depot, lowes, autozone, and oreilly.
 






See if you can't find some metric All-thread. I Know that Lowe's carries regular All-thread But I never had to buy the metric so I don't Know if they have it. It come in about a 3ft. Rod. just cut it to the size you need & put a nut on it. Instant Bolt
 






I'm getting ready to do the frt. cassette right now & i'm having trouble getting it out. I still have the heads on. do they need to come off ?


The heads? No, they do not have to come off. There should be one bolt on the camshaft, then the jackshaft bolt, and one torx headed bolt that holds the guide.
 






I got all the bolts, I just cant get the guide out past the head. the lower pivot hits the bottom of the head. I got the old one out but I had to bend it to get past the head. No biggie because it was wore out anyway. But I can't get the new one in.
 






I got all the bolts, I just cant get the guide out past the head. the lower pivot hits the bottom of the head. I got the old one out but I had to bend it to get past the head. No biggie because it was wore out anyway. But I can't get the new one in.

Try going in from the bottom the the head.
 






10/4, I'll try it in the morn. Thanks
 






ok if i cant find what im looking for tomorrow ill try that. thanks
 



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Installing front guide assembly

I got all the bolts, I just cant get the guide out past the head. the lower pivot hits the bottom of the head. I got the old one out but I had to bend it to get past the head. No biggie because it was wore out anyway. But I can't get the new one in.

I had the same problem. I got impatient and broke the bottom of the guide assembly when removing it. There's a tab on the new guide assembly that binds when trying to install it. I doubt you can install the guide from the bottom. I finally got mine to drop in from the top after numerous attempts trying different orientations.
 






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