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Anti seize on lugs?




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No .. why would you even wanna do that?
 






if they are very hard to get off now, maybe

i work in the tire industry so i would actually have to see the vehicle in person to determine if i would use it or not.... the reasoning is this..... generally you should not, becuase it can lead to improper torque readings/specifications.. this could lead to a wheel off situation

however, sometimes we have vehicles that come in with, not necesarilly damaged, but tighter than it should be lugs. and we put a very small amount of antiseize on each one to ensure that next time the lug will come off... sometimes wheels wont come off and the stud breaks....

so in general, no, however if there is a pre-existing issue with the thread-maybe
 






I did. i broke 3 lugs once because they got stuck on for one reason or another (think it had to do with the torque stick started pressing against my center cap as te lug nut went on and ****ed it).

But either way i put a little anti-sieze on em all. As long as they're torqued properly they wont back off.
 






There's a lot of controversy on this topic. I do it to prevent galling of my alloy wheel's lug holes by the steel lug nuts. When using anti-seize the torque values should be reduced by 10%.
 






Runnin'OnEmpty said:
There's a lot of controversy on this topic. I do it to prevent galling of my alloy wheel's lug holes by the steel lug nuts. When using anti-seize the torque values should be reduced by 10%.

wow i didnt know this was a debated topic.
Also, if you take into consideration the strength of individual people or the power of impact guns with torque sticks.. everything varies but at least 10ft-lbs... so that 10% rule (if its a rule) is more like a guidline. Just make sure you torque them on there nicely and you'll be fine.

Those torque specs are designed in a way where if you're off by 10 or even 20ft-lbs in some cases you shouldnt have a problem. Think about how many tires get changed everyday by people who have no clue what the word "torque" means... if the guidlines were that strict tires would be falling off all over the place . (though its always good to stick with specs.. maybe this lil post will give you piece at heart ;) )
 






well i change tires everyday and torque them to spec with a $400 click type dial snap-on torque wrench.... and torquing wheels is actually measured in foot-pounds of torque.

if you do use it, it has to be very little! you dont want any of it getting on the lug seat or hub seat as it COULD make either improperly seat
 






jimabena74 said:
and torquing wheels is actually measured in foot-pounds of torque.
got a lil secret for ya.. ft-lbs = foot-pounds :p

Hey you got a pic of this tool somewhere online? I work with tires everyday too but we just have torque sticks. (i heard stories of them blowin up on guys so i stand back while using them)

Oh and i deffinetally agree, dont get the anti-seize on the lug-nut seat or rim seat.. thats where 75% of the friction is that keeps the lug-nut on.
 






we use the torque sticks and then go with a lug wrench basically to at least say "it was torqued to spec" the sticks are cool, but arent always accurate, especailly with different powered guns.... i have an old school IR 3/8" gun and it only pushes like 130 ft-lb..... my coworker has some nice new composite IR 3/8" gun and his will do like 350 ft-lb!
 












pic no workin but i used its http to see it. lol thats one high-tec torque wrench. very cool though.
 












i definitely think its a no no,

think about it, do you want your lugnuts to be able to loosen up easily?

people even say that regular grease isn't a good idea,

if they are rusty and are a little tough to get on, i think the only thing i would do is spray just a little bit of wd40 on them,

but i'd never use anti-seize
 






oh and at my work place, we tighten the lugnuts with Torque sticks,

and then another employee checks them with a torque wrench just as a precaution,

we also suggest that the customer should come back after 100 miles or so and have them re-torqued also as a precaution
 






grease is worse! that is definately a :nono:

wd-40 is great if it is just still on there.. .but it dries and can cake cuasing more problem....

anti-seize has a thick gritty texture to it.... and if properly snugged down in the first place wont allow your wheels to loosen up just because its there anymore than nothing on there at all
 






I've always used a dab of anti-seize on my lug nuts. I've NEVER had one come loose. I've NEVER had to break a stud to get a wheel off either. I put a dab on the threads, run the nut down, and I'm done with it. If I replace the rotors, I don't bother re-anti-seizing them. There's enough residual in the nut threads to lube it adequately.

In the southern states, it may not be much of a problem, but here in the salt belt, it's almost essential if you ever plan on changing a flat on the side of the road.

-Joe
 












Dad and I have put never seeze on every lug that we've ever touched... trust me, they ain't backing off... even with the never seeze, they always stay nice and tight no matter how much we drive em
 






what should the wheels be torqued to? i just use a socket wrench and step on it
The tire techs may want to correct me, but I think our 1/2" Explorer lugs should be torqued to 90 ft-lbs. If using anti-seize, torque them 10% less or about 81 ft-lbs.

Remember that having them too tight is just as bad as too loose. If a lug bolt snaps from too much torque, it is just as gone as if the nut backed off...... :roll:
 



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i believe it is 100 pounds, which is the most universal specs on most vehicle nowadays,

i've never used anti-seize on the lugs, i guess i've never had to,
on my truck once i dabbed the slightest bit of grease on a few studs and didn't have any problems, but i've always used just a quick spray of wd-40 on everything else, never broken off any studs on any of my vehicles either
 






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