Any source for prebent brake lines? '94 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Any source for prebent brake lines? '94

bluexpy

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I don't have the time to spend learning how to pre-bend and flare brake lines at the moment....is there a source for brake lines that are already pre-bent for my application? '94 Explorer XLT 4wd.

Found brake fluid leaking at the tee fitting that splits between left and right wheels. Right side is leaking. Not sure yet; think it may have rusted out. :roll:

I also have to get it inspected before I drive it. I most likely will have this shop replace the brake lines. How much do they usually run? Do they bend the lines themselves....or?

Thanks for any help, guys.
 



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take old one out, take to auto parts store and match length and fittings.

prebent ones are not avail. unless doing the whole set and then you may still need to send them your old lines.

bending is easy and most times i do not even use my tool they are so easy.
 






Hello,

Here in Ohio Advanced Auto sells brake tubing double flare kits for $26.00. Some stores rent them also. And just a few bucks for a 5ft section of tubing and fluid.

Around here repair shops charge by the hour for brake line replacement. That is $70.00 per hour, (GoodYear-Gemini), plus parts....

I'm guessing you ment the right-rear line. It is fully exposed and will take a mechanic no more than an hour. At least buy the brake line tubing and fluid yourself and save a few bucks. Since the shop will at least charge double the parts cost.
 






i just did a 95 sable and it had two lines running parallel to the rear, 11 feet of lines each.

3 hours total out and in plus bending and buyng the lines.

with lines and fittings and brake fluid less than 45 bucks.
 






There shouldn't be a need to flare anything. You can buy brake line stock with the fittings already attached. You should remove the old line from the vehicle and bring it to the parts store to match up the correct fittings.

As mentioned, bending is easy. While the tool isn't mandatory, it's definitely a good idea to bend the tubing around something like a medium or large-diameter PVC pipe to help avoid kinking the line.

Oh, and to answer your original question, I am not aware of pre-bent lines being available anywhere. I asked a Ford dealer about tranny cooling lines a few months back, and he said they have to bend from straight stock. Tranny cooling lines are essentially the same thing as brake lines.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 






If you don't want to bend your own the only other alternative is to pony up the bucks for someone else to do it. It is unfortunate, but it is just not cost effective for manufacturers to prebend lines when they are expensive to ship, and it only takes a few minutes to bend your own.
 






not doing the work urself can get expensive judging buy the yr of your trk dont be surprized when u pk-up your trk after the repair. that they had to replace most all of the hard lines if one is leaking the others are not far behind
when they take leaking line off that t block other side hard line turns into a pretzel an i dont thk the straight line you get at the local auto store sells lines with a button flare ends
 






I would guess a shop would charge $100+ to replace the rear lines on your truck.. If one is gone you should replace the other while your at it.. 3/16" Hardlines with fittings already on cost under $10 each.. They are a easy to bend with just your hands, or you could use a tube bender for more precise bends.. Like you I was apprehensive to work on my brake lines (because I just never did). Other members said it was a piece of cake and easy to do.. I took their advice and replace all my rear hardines.. They were 100% right.. I bent most of the tube with just my hands and now I have no fear of working with brake lines..
 






Thanks to all for the help. I finally will get to bring it home Saturday. Hopefully I'll get it worked on that day.

I would be motivated to learn how to bend brake tubes. I just hardly have any time anymore. I've been working so much so I can eat three square meals a day in this ridiculously overinflated city. I just hate seeing sloppy brake lines. I like following the factory way. So I guess I'll buy the tool.

I also did some Googling.

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/index.html

Seems easy enough, lots of good information.

Now I hope I'll find the time to work on it and get it well tuned. Fortunately, my state just extended temporary registration to a month, so I can find time more easily now.

Thanks!

If all in all fails, I'll just do it some other time and PAY for convenience. :rolleyes:
 






Make sure you spray the bleeders with PB Blaster ahead of time. Getting the bleeders loose is sometimes worse than replacing the lines. If you bust the bleeder off, then you will need to replace the wheel cylinder(s). Spray them at least 24 hours ahead of time so they can soak.
 






That's a really good point. I assumed you'd be doing the brakes at the same time, because that's what I would do. Unless you know that the cylinders are fairly new, I would definitely recommend that you replace them now while you're in there anyway. As a bonus, they'll have new bleeders so you won't have to deal with that.

Mike
 






Wheel cylinders are on the list if they don't cooperate. I'll have to learn a thing or two, the '94 has ABS on all wheels...

Let me tell you, driving it with my left hand on the brake release lever and shifting the manual is more challenging than I thought. :eek:
 






don't answer the cell phone or it will push you over the edge.

use a six point socket on the bleeders.

when i was in college i drove from cleveland to columbus on interstate 71 with no brakes only timing everything and using the emergency brake in a 67 ford xl.

i was crazy stupid back then.
 






Just be safe and don't kill yourself before you have a chance to enjoy your new truck :thumbsup:
 






Oh, I won't. I just needed to move it within the property. I haven't even turned a mile on it since purchasing it. I avoided using the service brakes since the MC was empty from leaking. It stayed in first gear.

I did a lot of further reading. As soon as I get good tools and some scrap steel liens to practice, I feel confident bending my own. That will happen tomorrow.

QUESTION! Does anyone know for sure what diameter is the brake line? 3/16?
 






3/16" it is my good friend. And if you ever have to work on the HCU or master cylinder end, you better keep those fittings that are on there as they are oversizes AND metric (therefore its easier on you if you buy a metric hard line and redo the double flared end once you switch the fittings around.
 






I read about that in the new Haynes manual I just purchased for the Explorer, good thing I did.

I was thinking of using telfon tapes to block ends of the loose lines/orifice

Mini, not sure what you mean...are you telling the brake lines and fittings were originally metric? I have no idea...so they don't sell brake lines in metric in a typical auto parts store?
 






I read about that in the new Haynes manual I just purchased for the Explorer, good thing I did.

I was thinking of using telfon tapes to block ends of the loose lines/orifice

Mini, not sure what you mean...are you telling the brake lines and fittings were originally metric? I have no idea...so they don't sell brake lines in metric in a typical auto parts store?

Minivek is saying that early Explorers can have a standard/metric hybrid brake system. Basically Explorers where 100% standard until they started adding ABS.. When ABS came into the picture Ford purchased ABS components from Bosch which is metric.. The good thing is both the standard lines and metric lines are both 3/16", but the metric fittings are different and require a bubble flare as opposed to a standard double flare. Anyway it is best to save all the old fittings just to be sure you have them..
 






do not use teflon tape.

ford did not and you should not either.
 



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do not use teflon tape.

ford did not and you should not either.

100% correct.. The flared fittings and double flares of the line will make a perfect seal when tightened.. Tape should never be used on brake lines..
 






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