Anyone every rebuilt their rear differential?

[mehedgec]

I'm getting a whine from the rear. Time for a rebuild I suppose. Luckily I have a buddy who has done quite a few rebuilds on the Ford 8.8.

Anywho, what is the best place to get a new ring and pinion (3.73 limited slip) I work at autozone, I can get all the bearings and have a discount, but can't get a discount on the ring and pinion.

The whine isn't terrible, but just curious how long It'll last like this. Should I wait until it gets real bad before fixing it?

 

[Horsepwr]

There is no telling how long it will last could blow up 1 mile down the road or 50k never know. but i wouldnt rebuild your old one id just go to a junkyard and get a newer year rearend since they come limited slip and with disc brakes.

 

[jd4242]

There is no telling how long it will last could blow up 1 mile down the road or 50k never know. but i wouldnt rebuild your old one id just go to a junkyard and get a newer year rearend since they come limited slip and with disc brakes.

X2 best swap I've done.its a direct swap.you need a mc from a 95 no Abs and no proportioning valve

 

[mehedgec]

X2 best swap I've done.its a direct swap.you need a mc from a 95 no Abs and no proportioning valve

My Explorer does have rear ABS though...

 

[jd4242]

Correct but its in the frame rail not in the mc.so you need a mc without it.trust me

 

[wood1]

Do some searches, the rear disc is the way to go. Get a good axle, change the seals etc, throw it in and enjoy good brakes.

 

[mehedgec]

So it is seriously that easy? Buy new axle, change axle seals, pinion, seal, install, fill with fluid, connect brake lines, enjoy?

 

[jd4242]

So it is seriously that easy? Buy new axle, change axle seals, pinion, seal, install, fill with fluid, connect brake lines, enjoy?

Yep.you have a 93 so the ebrake will hook right up.you just disconnect the brake like at the frame hook the new 95+line in there and swap to the 95 mc and your done.disc brakes are great.i got mine rear for $150 with a warranty but didn't need it. You can search for my swap its called "my 99 behind swap"

 

[jd4242]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=303701

 

[mehedgec]

Yep.you have a 93 so the ebrake will hook right up.you just disconnect the brake like at the frame hook the new 95+line in there and swap to the 95 mc and your done.disc brakes are great.i got mine rear for $150 with a warranty but didn't need it. You can search for my swap its called "my 99 behind swap"

sway to the 95 mc? what does mc stand for?

 

[FIND]

Master Cylinder

Good luck, a rear end swap or rebuild is practically a right of passage on this site. You aren't ever really a full EF member till you have done it once.

 

[jd4242]

Hahah ^^^^ yea master cylinder. Yea i think anyone that has time and money should swap to a 2nd gen rear end

 

[jd4242]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...hByPartNumber=true&itemIdentifier=139319_0_0_
95 without cruise control and without proportioning valve#m2695

 

[mehedgec]

Hahah ^^^^ yea master cylinder. Yea i think anyone that has time and money should swap to a 2nd gen rear end

duh! haha cylinder having an "s" sound threw me off. :

So the master cylinder is necessary?

 

[FIND]

Yes, because rear drum requires different line pressure when compared to rear disk.

Brakes are probably the best upgrade that ANYONE can do for a first gen. The stock ones are barely adequate new.

 

[jd4242]

duh! haha cylinder having an "s" sound threw me off. :

So the master cylinder is necessary?

Yes!!don't listen to anyone that said they did it and just adjusted the rod in the mc.that is not the right way to do it and will not work over time.the only way to get the pressures right is to use that 95 MC. It makes a pretty big difference hhaving disc brakes back there

 

[jd4242]

And its only $35.99 before your discount and gives you a reason to flush all your break fluid to synthetic.look at R1 rotors they are cheap and cross drilled and sloted. Helps keep them cool for this heavy rig!you could do this whole swap for less than you could get a r+p

 

[mehedgec]

And its only $35.99 before your discount and gives you a reason to flush all your break fluid to synthetic.look at R1 rotors they are cheap and cross drilled and sloted. Helps keep them cool for this heavy rig!you could do this whole swap for less than you could get a r+p

What do I need to do to make sure I get a good rear at the junkyard? This is looking like the way to go for sure. Plus it'll give me a reason to go ahead and change my front brake hoses, they need it bad.

 

[jd4242]

I would look for 98-99 with the same axle code.3.73 and ls are very common.i would check for leaks and mileage. Also one with out a tow hitch.if you can spin the drive shaft and listen to it.crank it back and forth to just for play or any weird sounds.have some one hold one axle still and spin it.i would even grab the springs to.its easier to just take the whole thing off with the springs on it and yours are probably saging anyways.must junk yards will even have a core for your old rear and springs.if you have the money then i would put new seals,pads,rotors and fluid in it but if not you can probably just check the fluid level and run it as is.i did my whole swap in a couple hours.is yours a four door and 4x4?do you off road any?now would be the time to rebuild the ls or look for an open rear instead of a ls so you could put a locker in it.or if you running bigger tires you may want to look for a 4.10 rear and just regear the front down the road.

 

[mehedgec]

I would look for 98-99 with the same axle code.3.73 and ls are very common.i would check for leaks and mileage. Also one with out a tow hitch.if you can spin the drive shaft and listen to it.crank it back and forth to just for play or any weird sounds.have some one hold one axle still and spin it.i would even grab the springs to.its easier to just take the whole thing off with the springs on it and yours are probably saging anyways.must junk yards will even have a core for your old rear and springs.if you have the money then i would put new seals,pads,rotors and fluid in it but if not you can probably just check the fluid level and run it as is.i did my whole swap in a couple hours.is yours a four door and 4x4?do you off road any?now would be the time to rebuild the ls or look for an open rear instead of a ls so you could put a locker in it.or if you running bigger tires you may want to look for a 4.10 rear and just regear the front down the road.

Mine is 4X2 and I do not off road or tow. Strictly a street machine. I will definitely do pads and seals along with it. Rotors if they need it, probably get them turned at the least. This sounds like something I should be able to do over a weekend pretty easily. Any tips on getting the 4 bolts on my driveshaft loose? I was gonna take my driveshaft lose earlier and they wouldn't come loose.