Anyone have a trusted source for PCM rebuild for 2010 Ex?

[iajet]

I live in SoCal and know there is a shop in Van Nuys but don't know anyone that has done business with them. Anyone else have a known and reliable source for a rebuild?

 

[J_C]

Sorry I don't know of one but do you know what caused the ECM to fail, for example was it a shorted ignition coil? If so you might be able to ID what's blown, probably a transistor, or overheat caused a bad solder joint.

Generally it's less expensive to get a pull from a junkyard. My local pick 'n pull wants ~$30 while I'd expect repairing one to cost $130+. I can't fathom how they're selling for so much used aka "pre owned" on ebay, maybe I should start selling them on ebay, lol.


I mean it'd be one thing if the repair replaced all the electronics inside but it's only going to replace the failed components so for around $100 more you're still getting a used PCM (back from a repair center).

 

[iajet]

​

Sorry I don't know of one but do you know what caused the ECM to fail, for example was it a shorted ignition coil? If so you might be able to ID what's blown, probably a transistor, or overheat caused a bad solder joint.

Generally it's less expensive to get a pull from a junkyard. My local pick 'n pull wants ~$30 while I'd expect repairing one to cost $130+. I can't fathom how they're selling for so much used aka "pre owned" on ebay, maybe I should start selling them on ebay, lol.


I mean it'd be one thing if the repair replaced all the electronics inside but it's only going to replace the failed components so for around $100 more you're still getting a used PCM (back from a repair center).

So attached is the original issue and troubleshoot by the dealer. I have been driving it as is, as there is nothing wrong with it except the CEL is on.

Just the other day my wife was driving it and it just died as she was driving. It is back at the dealer and they say the issue traces back to another fault with the PCM. Now we scour the earth for a part that may not be out there.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[Trainmaster]

I really doubt the PCM is your problem. You need a diagnosis from someone who better understands these trucks. It looks like the dealer just went down the shop manual's pinpoint tests. Check your top engine harness and connections - plugs and grounds, for one thing. The PCM is a very robust unit and seldom fails.

Here's some helpful information in diagnosing these computers:

ford pcm rebuilding - Google Search

 

[Bazz270]

OR....

Download forscan and try to check by yourself.

I have my entire engine harness burnt (2 years ago),every related module gone (the worst case scenario)in harness short cut but not the PCM.

It is heavy duty sealed and epoxy coated ,back amperage fused,printed board case ,similar to military packaging standards ones.


Almost zero way to make it bad.

 

[Ruddy]

I'm waiting on the dealer to find me a good rebuilt one and it has been over a week. Service mgr told me Ford does that sell them anymore and rebuilt ones they get in fail tests often.
This all started when AC would go off and on by itself, idle has violent drops that shake the car and sputtering on steady cruise.
Oh and early on I replaced my AC compressor, so I can do a good write up of that for a V8. Doh!

 

[Bazz270]

Replace your main harness

 

[Ruddy]

Follow up for future searchers.
Dealer supplier could never find a good one.
I sent mine to neatautocomputer on Ebay and they could not find anything wrong with it and shipped it back no charge.
Computer seemed to be happy for a while, but in hindsight that was because of the cool weather. When the weather got hot, it started up again.
Wanted to get a different PCM so bought one from Flagship One for $648. They had poor communication on the delays, but finally said they went through 3 different cores and could not find a good one. They offered to fix mine for $500, but if they can do that why didn't they fix one of the bad cores? Cancelled order.
Bought one from Car Computer Exchange for $969. They had a good turnaround time, paint their box black and forgot to update it with my VIN. Sent it back on their shipping. Now they took their sweet ass time even though it was their mistake and I called them letting them know an upcoming trailer towing trip was in danger of being cancelled. 8 days later they shipped it. Installed it and used Forscan to verify VIN update and all modules communicating. Yay, but too late for trip.
===============
Call out locksmith to program my only key. $100 and he says I need two and 2nd one is $95. Erases 3 keys in PCM, adds mine and it will not start. Charges me $85 and leaves.
Was leery of using Forscan do it, but found some good instructions and got the free trial extended license. Buy 2nd key at Batteries & Bulbs $35 and $15 to cut it.
Erase the one key, add my 2 keys. Then Module Initialization is needed. Go through the prompts and inserting keys on and off, but does not work. Forscan says to try again. I try two more times, but same error. Then I just try to start with main key. Works! 2nd key also works!
================
Go for a long drive in 104 degree stop and go traffic and AC works great with no surging feeling from the compressor being turned off and on every tenth of a second.
BTW Mine is an early 2010 made in August '09. Forscan had me do the 12 minute security waits, but there was no code generation needed as described in this write up:

How to program PATS using FORScan v2.3.* - FORScan forum

 

[Bazz270]

What was wrong with your old PCM?

 

[Ruddy]

What was wrong with your old PCM?

the A/C circuit when it got hot. I have a manual A/C system and the PCM would turn it on by itself. When running it would turn it completely off. Then when it got really hot it would turn it off/on off/on every fraction of a second causing the engine to rock at idle and give the surging feeling on the highway. Like the O.P. this was diagnosed by the dealer. I later verified it by pouring water on the PCM and every time it would stop.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

the A/C circuit when it got hot. I have a manual A/C system and the PCM would turn it on by itself. When running it would turn it completely off. Then when it got really hot it would turn it off/on off/on every fraction of a second causing the engine to rock at idle and give the surging feeling on the highway. Like the O.P. this was diagnosed by the dealer. I later verified it by pouring water on the PCM and every time it would stop.

water+electricity=bad imo
probably im missing something however, but for me id rather cool it another way than to pour water on it.

 

[Ruddy]

water+electricity=bad imo
probably im missing something however, but for me id rather cool it another way than to pour water on it.

well it is sealed and broken anyway, so not much to lose on that test.
Side note; we searched for Expeditions as a backup tow plan. Before 2007 the PCM sat out in the engine bay like our explorers, then they put it behind the firewall and just the connectors show. Our 2009 Escape is the same way.

 

[J_C]

What a strange story. I would have opened the PCM and found out what was overheating, looked up the spec sheet or estimated based on what it was, if this is normal combined with high ambient temps or a sign of a faulty part and then if normal, epoxy a heatsink on it though I doubt it is normal, then there would be a lot of prior reports so most likely it is a bad solder joint, or a transistor is shorting out or leaking (electrically).

 

[Ruddy]

What a strange story. I would have opened the PCM and found out what was overheating, looked up the spec sheet or estimated based on what it was, if this is normal combined with high ambient temps or a sign of a faulty part and then if normal, epoxy a heatsink on it though I doubt it is normal, then there would be a lot of prior reports so most likely it is a bad solder joint, or a transistor is shorting out or leaking (electrically).

First company opened it up I can tell from the re-seal goop. They promise to inspect, test all circuits and replace parts. I told them my issues so they could concentrate. Don't know if they heat test.
It is interesting that Ford ran the AC hard lines closely up and over the PCM like they were trying to cool it.

 

[J_C]

If the lines weren't running through a cooling block bolted to the PCM, they weren't trying to cool it with that.

 

[D Hook]

First company opened it up I can tell from the re-seal goop. They promise to inspect, test all circuits and replace parts. I told them my issues so they could concentrate. Don't know if they heat test.
It is interesting that Ford ran the AC hard lines closely up and over the PCM like they were trying to cool it.

Very interesting read. Thanks for the follow up.

 

[Bazz270]

Well
The SJB and the PCM controls the manual a/c together.

Havent you checked the following PCM related inner circuits?maybe burnt or corroded inner components.

 

[Rick]

Solved - Finally found a good PCM repair company

Took 5 companies, but Keyworks in Richmond VA. (Keyworks: Mail-in Keys and Ecu Repair services) came through. Found him through this video: Can see he has great skills and test equipment including Ford connectors. I had taken the PCM case top off myself, but saw no physical damage. I knew from...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[rmeline]

Thanks for sharing. I'm looking for a PCM repair or replacement now.

 

[94Fexplorerxlt]

YourPartSOurce on ebay was incredible . $ 250 . I sent them my pcm they fixed everything wrong with it , cleaned it up threw couple warranty stickers on it and I had back in les than a week.