Anyone still making/selling coilover brackets? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Anyone still making/selling coilover brackets?

Greg_DonWindsor

Elite Explorer
Joined
February 25, 2007
Messages
389
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100
City, State
Calgary, Alberta
Year, Model & Trim Level
2008 Limited V8 4x4
Growing very tired of annual LCA swaps and the poor feel of the torsion bar based front IFS. I know there was a thread about this long ago, I checked in the history and searched to the best of my abilities, is anyone still fabricating these conversion brackets? It was a guy on another Ranger forum if memory serves correct. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

-Greg
 



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I wonder if that's because you aren't logged in. I just saw one banner ad at the top.
 






That's the one, thanks!

For those of you who've done the mod and remained at stock ride height, is it worth it? I'll have to farm out the cutting and welding tasks, but can probably get it done through a friend locally fairly affordably. I'll be staying at stock ride height or slightly higher, the problem I've been experiencing is with my much larger heavier wheelset, this thing eats ball joints, and front suspension/chassis parts on an annual basis. I'm starting to think a coilover with 800lb spring slightly dialed up, along with some lift shackles in the back would be the way to go.
 






I haven't done it. The conversion is on the list of 'things I'd like to get to someday if money allows.' That said, there are quite a few in the linked thread who have done the swap at stock height and seem very pleased.
 






I had the RCD lift on my 99 Ranger. It came with the coilover conversion parts. They don't make it anymore, but I see them for sale every now and again.
 






@FlyinBarney - the parts I linked above are a duplication of the old RCD brackets. You can pick them up for $325, then add your own coilover and strap setup.
 












How long have you had the RCD kit, and do you have any feedback about it?
 






Sold the truck about 1 year ago. Bought it with the lift already installed and it worked well. I was wanting a better desert type suspension so I purchased a Ranger with the Camburg mid-travel kit. The two rode quite differently and the Camburg was softer. My Camburg truck was a coil spring rather than torsion also.
 






I have a conversion kit in a box on the shelf.
I just couldn't find a set of shocks that I was comfortable using.

My math always showed the shock bottoming out before hitting the bump stop with the shock eyelet extenders they say you might need. I asked about this in the thread somewhere, and was shot down. Later in the thread, guys kept breaking shocks and bending eyelets....I wonder why? Duh.

Anyway be careful if you decide to do this and make sure that the bump stop is stopping the LCA, and not the shock.
 






This is also on my list to do, but almost last. I like hearing the good reviews from both lifted and near stock trucks.

That's the one, thanks!

For those of you who've done the mod and remained at stock ride height, is it worth it? I'll have to farm out the cutting and welding tasks, but can probably get it done through a friend locally fairly affordably. I'll be staying at stock ride height or slightly higher, the problem I've been experiencing is with my much larger heavier wheelset, this thing eats ball joints, and front suspension/chassis parts on an annual basis. I'm starting to think a coilover with 800lb spring slightly dialed up, along with some lift shackles in the back would be the way to go.

How much do your wheel/tires weigh? I had 72.5lbs for a long time with heavy 18's for years. I rebuilt the suspension at about the 150k mark, and it's been okay for over 50k miles. It hasn't been driven much in a few years, but with over ten years on the parts, the BJ boots are almost all rotted away(Moog parts). So I'm replacing them again when I put a rebuilt diff in it. That truck has been 2-3" lower since 2004, it's been a great truck.
 






I think there is a night & day difference in the ride quality between stock bars & Coils. They work best using them with no lift, and the LCA's straight across. This gives full use of the shocks travel stroke. Which, lets face it, 6" total travel plain sucks on these rigs. Using as much of that stroke is beneficial to you.

Placement of the lower brackets is key to not having any parts playing rub rub with each other. Extended lower tabs or extended lower eyelet shocks, are not needed when this is done right.

If you buy the brackets ready to bolt on, the only welding is on the gussets to frame. Simple straight 4" beads. Speaking of, there is someone making a DYI weld kit for these now. I am sure it is cheaper, as you just get the CNC cut plates, and glue it up yourself.

For stock to little lift, I would use a 2.0 shock that takes a 10" coil. As far as rate goes, 800# seems a tad high. There will be hardly any give in the suspension. The shocks will still soak up the road, but the setup will be very tight. Might want to start a little lower, like 700 or 750.

Then comes the UCA. To eliminate eating UBJ's, a BTF Uniball upper arm will remedy this instantly. For the LBJ's, find a pro-grade that can take the abuse. There are a couple aftermarket brands, that also offer a little more degree angle, to alleviate over-stressing when pushing past degree ranges, of stock joints. I am waiting with my finger on the "Buy now" button when someone makes a heavy duty fully skid plated LCA, about 1-2" longer than stock.
 






I sure wish I was set up for welding, and could weld. its been the possibility of the lower brackets I have possibly creating the need for extended shock eyelets holding me back (then I'd be faced with stuff like trying to find CV joints that are not as big around). I just don't want to take the whole thing apart and find I have a problem I can't solve by myself. welding the gussets are easy to drive to a welder, and pop the top of the shocks off so the welding can be done.

This is the one mod I just can't bring myself to complete. maybe one day I'll get my head in the space where I can take a a run at it.
 






This is also on my list to do, but almost last. I like hearing the good reviews from both lifted and near stock trucks.



How much do your wheel/tires weigh? I had 72.5lbs for a long time with heavy 18's for years. I rebuilt the suspension at about the 150k mark, and it's been okay for over 50k miles. It hasn't been driven much in a few years, but with over ten years on the parts, the BJ boots are almost all rotted away(Moog parts). So I'm replacing them again when I put a rebuilt diff in it. That truck has been 2-3" lower since 2004, it's been a great truck.

I'm at probably about 75lbs per corner as well, have never weighed my wheelset but they're HEAVY.
 






I have a conversion kit in a box on the shelf.
I just couldn't find a set of shocks that I was comfortable using.

My math always showed the shock bottoming out before hitting the bump stop with the shock eyelet extenders they say you might need. I asked about this in the thread somewhere, and was shot down. Later in the thread, guys kept breaking shocks and bending eyelets....I wonder why? Duh.

Anyway be careful if you decide to do this and make sure that the bump stop is stopping the LCA, and not the shock.

Are they the conversion brackets built by the guy on the Ranger forum? If so I'd buy them from you if you're interested in selling.
 






I think there is a night & day difference in the ride quality between stock bars & Coils. They work best using them with no lift, and the LCA's straight across. This gives full use of the shocks travel stroke. Which, lets face it, 6" total travel plain sucks on these rigs. Using as much of that stroke is beneficial to you.

Placement of the lower brackets is key to not having any parts playing rub rub with each other. Extended lower tabs or extended lower eyelet shocks, are not needed when this is done right.

If you buy the brackets ready to bolt on, the only welding is on the gussets to frame. Simple straight 4" beads. Speaking of, there is someone making a DYI weld kit for these now. I am sure it is cheaper, as you just get the CNC cut plates, and glue it up yourself.

For stock to little lift, I would use a 2.0 shock that takes a 10" coil. As far as rate goes, 800# seems a tad high. There will be hardly any give in the suspension. The shocks will still soak up the road, but the setup will be very tight. Might want to start a little lower, like 700 or 750.

Then comes the UCA. To eliminate eating UBJ's, a BTF Uniball upper arm will remedy this instantly. For the LBJ's, find a pro-grade that can take the abuse. There are a couple aftermarket brands, that also offer a little more degree angle, to alleviate over-stressing when pushing past degree ranges, of stock joints. I am waiting with my finger on the "Buy now" button when someone makes a heavy duty fully skid plated LCA, about 1-2" longer than stock.

I've been looking at those BTF UCA's for a while now. Any idea if they're compatible with stock ride height? Their website states they are "slightly longer than stock to accommodate negative camber issues associated with lift kits". I may dial the coil springs of the modded IFS setup to provide an extra 2" of lift up front, similar to a torsion twist. Aside from that I do not plan on lifting higher.
 






I think there is a night & day difference in the ride quality between stock bars & Coils. They work best using them with no lift, and the LCA's straight across. This gives full use of the shocks travel stroke. Which, lets face it, 6" total travel plain sucks on these rigs. Using as much of that stroke is beneficial to you.

Placement of the lower brackets is key to not having any parts playing rub rub with each other. Extended lower tabs or extended lower eyelet shocks, are not needed when this is done right.

If you buy the brackets ready to bolt on, the only welding is on the gussets to frame. Simple straight 4" beads. Speaking of, there is someone making a DYI weld kit for these now. I am sure it is cheaper, as you just get the CNC cut plates, and glue it up yourself.

For stock to little lift, I would use a 2.0 shock that takes a 10" coil. As far as rate goes, 800# seems a tad high. There will be hardly any give in the suspension. The shocks will still soak up the road, but the setup will be very tight. Might want to start a little lower, like 700 or 750.

Then comes the UCA. To eliminate eating UBJ's, a BTF Uniball upper arm will remedy this instantly. For the LBJ's, find a pro-grade that can take the abuse. There are a couple aftermarket brands, that also offer a little more degree angle, to alleviate over-stressing when pushing past degree ranges, of stock joints. I am waiting with my finger on the "Buy now" button when someone makes a heavy duty fully skid plated LCA, about 1-2" longer than stock.

And longer cv axles too.
 



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Are they the conversion brackets built by the guy on the Ranger forum? If so I'd buy them from you if you're interested in selling.

Hi Greg,
I flop around like a fish out of water on these brackets. Yes they are from the guy over on RangerForums. They have been powder coated (Not the best job on complete coverage if I remember correctly).
I had kinda planned on doing this conversion, but my inability to keep a motor in my truck kinda slowed things down. I read about the success stories like gmanpaint and others, and I'm really struggling. I just feel like I have my hands full with the motor and am not sure that I want to take on any other mods for a while. How does $420cdn shipped sound?
Edit: all the other 'incidentals' to this mod are over $1000.00cdn. This one isn't for the feint of heart.
 






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