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Anyone used one of the Doorman fuel filter quick disconnect fitting replacement kits?

sehaare

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98 SOHC 4WC XLT. From some research it looks that ford changed this fittings at some point. My car has what I think is the older metal styled quick disconnect fittings for the fuel filter. I got the old fitting off with some effort but the inlet fitting o-rings were shot and I ended up with one hell of a fuel spray.

Has anyone used the Doorman kit that is supposed to replace these?

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-deliv...or-800-054/238623_116457_0?searchText=800-054

I saw a YouTube video and the guy on there used one but said that the barb would not fit into his flexible hose section and he had to cut the hard line and use rubber fuel line to make the connection. I was wondering if anyone here had used them and if they had different luck with the barb fitting?

Here is a link to the Video, but I warn you that the language he used was exactly the same words that this old Retired Navy Senior Chief would have used.



Thanks in advance
 



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Rick

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I used the equivalent kit on my Dodge Ram. It's been awhile, but I believe I had to heat up the plastic fuel line with a heat gun to soften and expand it slightly as I pushed the barb into it. It's been in there for at least a few years now with no problem. Mine was on a diesel though, I wouldn't suggest heating the gasoline fuel line while it's attached to the vehicle.
 






Justin_

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It is a pain to do, but if you can heat up the hose you can get it in. Don't use a torch (because fuel, duah) but i'm sure a heat gun, like Rick mentioned, would work well. All I tried was hot water. I did it eventually, but it sucked.
 






donalds

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I just bought this at the local auto parts store and just swap the guts over
O rings spacers ECT ...
Amazon product
 






sehaare

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I just bought this at the local auto parts store and just swap the guts over
O rings spacers ECT ...
Amazon product

did you make up the same tool or did you find an easier way? I was excited until I watched the video and say that I'd have to cut the connector to get the parts out and then make a tool to put them in the old connector. I'll probably give it a try anyway as the part is only a few bucks and anything that keeps me from cutting the fuel line is a good thing.

Thanks
 






donalds

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did you make up the same tool or did you find an easier way? I was excited until I watched the video and say that I'd have to cut the connector to get the parts out and then make a tool to put them in the old connector. I'll probably give it a try anyway as the part is only a few bucks and anything that keeps me from cutting the fuel line is a good thing.

Thanks
I just used a strong little pick
And I cut off the end of a old fuel filter to install all the new parts at one time
Then I just snapped in the metal retaining clip with my thumb
Done
 






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sehaare

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I just used a strong little pick
And I cut off the end of a old fuel filter to install all the new parts at one time
Then I just snapped in the metal retaining clip with my thumb
Done
That sound more doable. But in my case I'll be laying on the ground beneath it instead of having it up on a lift. Plus my retainer clip stayed in the fuel line so I'll need to figure out how to get that out first so that I can put the o-rings in behind it.

I have often used wooden skewers (the kind you grill with) to position more delicate parts. I'll probably try using those as well. Worst case senario it doesn't work and cut off the connector and go with the other fix as plan B. Either way I'm saving way more money than having to have it towed in to let someone else do it.

Thanks again.
 






donalds

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. But in my case I'll be laying on the ground beneath it instead of having it up on a lift.
Me to lol

my retainer clip stayed in the fuel line so I'll need to figure out how to get that out
A pick
Just get your pick behind it .... You will destroy it in the process....

I suggest looking in there with a flashlight

Don't over think it
Sounds like you got this
I'd buy 2 connectors one to learn on ;)
 












sehaare

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Me to lol


A pick
Just get your pick behind it .... You will destroy it in the process....

I suggest looking in there with a flashlight

Don't over think it
Sounds like you got this
I'd buy 2 connectors one to learn on ;)
I was already planning on buying 2 for that exact reason. a lot cheaper than having to be towed in some place to have to pay someone else to do it.
 






sehaare

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Thanks for the help guys.

I've had this SUV since I drove it off the lot in 1998. Both it and I have gotten a lot older since then and it seems that every time that I start out doing what should be just routine maintenance, something new comes up than makes it an whole new adventure. But I've always been able to come here and someone else has been there before and has a realistic idea how to fix it.

Steve
 






sehaare

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Me to lol


A pick
Just get your pick behind it .... You will destroy it in the process....

I suggest looking in there with a flashlight

Don't over think it
Sounds like you got this
I'd buy 2 connectors one to learn on ;)
There was a learning curve on the first connector figuring out where to cut. damaged the little spacer behind the clip. I'll be cutting the second one open in a few minutes to get that part undamaged.

Now that I got the first one open and can look at it, it makes sense. I think that I don't need the big plastic piece that is used to disengage the clips, I would still do that with the normal fuel filter fuel line tool. Did you use the black piece of just toss it away?
 






donalds

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I think I used all the guts
 






sehaare

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I think I used all the guts
I think that I'm going to strike out on plan A. I was able to get the two washers, the spacer inbetween them and the clip out of the new connector, but the spacer between the clip and the washers won't budge. If I can't get it out of the new one I doubt that I'll be able to get it out of the old one.
 






sehaare

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I think that I'm going to strike out on plan A. I was able to get the two washers, the spacer inbetween them and the clip out of the new connector, but the spacer between the clip and the washers won't budge. If I can't get it out of the new one I doubt that I'll be able to get it out of the old one.
And It looks like I'm just going to have to throw in the towel and have this towed in. There is just not enough room or run of flexible fuel hose for me to try and fix this while laying on my back. I'm also skeptical that the ever barb is going to fit into that fuel line.

I've got both this and a brake job (see the other post about my calper bracket bolts) blow up in my face. I'm going to end up paying twice what this SUB is worth for a tow and someone else to fix both of these issues, then it still need new tie rods and the follow on alignment. I'm just going to have to tell my daughter that I can no longer keep her car running for her after this.

Thanks again for the help, but as clint said "a man has to know his limitations".
 






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I hope you don't have any more big issues after the fuel line repair. I had to work with the OEM line connections of an old 86 Ford CV to install an 88 302 HO engine. About four of those high pressure plastic connections were hell to do on the car, two at the tank and two near the engine. Heating the plastic line was the easy part, pushing it into the fitting really quickly was hard, the space you're working in and leverage etc. I did that in about 1995, I was younger and could work in those spaces better.

I used a hair dryer to heat the plastic line, that works very well. Once it's hot, you don't have time to walk with it from heating it, to where the fitting is on the vehicle. The line will push on fairly well when it is hot, but as it cools fast, it gets much harder.

I had the fuel connection at my 98's fuel tank failing when I bought it in 2004, the first time I replaced the pump. The next time I had to drop the tank, I replaced that rear feed line that runs to the filter, the same one that the video above he was repairing. Don't ever use smooth steel line to clamp a rubber hose onto, it must have some kind of barbs to hold the hose. At some point in the future, the pressure will cause a leak as the hose ages, 40 psi is too much for a simple hose on steel line connection. People have known that about transmission lines for decades, the rubber hose needs to go onto a line which is barbed in some way to hold the hose well.
 






sehaare

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I hope you don't have any more big issues after the fuel line repair. I had to work with the OEM line connections of an old 86 Ford CV to install an 88 302 HO engine. About four of those high pressure plastic connections were hell to do on the car, two at the tank and two near the engine. Heating the plastic line was the easy part, pushing it into the fitting really quickly was hard, the space you're working in and leverage etc. I did that in about 1995, I was younger and could work in those spaces better.

I used a hair dryer to heat the plastic line, that works very well. Once it's hot, you don't have time to walk with it from heating it, to where the fitting is on the vehicle. The line will push on fairly well when it is hot, but as it cools fast, it gets much harder.

I had the fuel connection at my 98's fuel tank failing when I bought it in 2004, the first time I replaced the pump. The next time I had to drop the tank, I replaced that rear feed line that runs to the filter, the same one that the video above he was repairing. Don't ever use smooth steel line to clamp a rubber hose onto, it must have some kind of barbs to hold the hose. At some point in the future, the pressure will cause a leak as the hose ages, 40 psi is too much for a simple hose on steel line connection. People have known that about transmission lines for decades, the rubber hose needs to go onto a line which is barbed in some way to hold the hose well.
The flexible fuel line near the broken fuel filter quick disconnect was braided, so I'm not sure that I could have gotten it to expand after heating it without trying to cut the braid back. I wasn't sure that was a good idea laying on my back and shoving my hands up into a tight area. I've never had to give up on a repair before but I didn't want to be the jackass who cut a fuel line, couldn't fix it himself and then made it harder for the guys in the shop to fix.

I hate having to pay $80 to have the car towed 4 blocks. But at this point I've spent so much time on the SUV between the fuel line and the rounded off Caliper bracket bolts that I will to pay someone else to do it, just so that I don't have to crawl under it any more.

I've still got to do the drive side tie rods, and replace the last section of tail pipe (resonator?) and then that will be the last money/time I spend fixing this. The next major repair it is time for it to see the junkyard.
 






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The flexible fuel line near the broken fuel filter quick disconnect was braided, so I'm not sure that I could have gotten it to expand after heating it without trying to cut the braid back. I wasn't sure that was a good idea laying on my back and shoving my hands up into a tight area. I've never had to give up on a repair before but I didn't want to be the jackass who cut a fuel line, couldn't fix it himself and then made it harder for the guys in the shop to fix.

I hate having to pay $80 to have the car towed 4 blocks. But at this point I've spent so much time on the SUV between the fuel line and the rounded off Caliper bracket bolts that I will to pay someone else to do it, just so that I don't have to crawl under it any more.

I've still got to do the drive side tie rods, and replace the last section of tail pipe (resonator?) and then that will be the last money/time I spend fixing this. The next major repair it is time for it to see the junkyard.
98 SOHC 4WC XLT. From some research it looks that ford changed this fittings at some point. My car has what I think is the older metal styled quick disconnect fittings for the fuel filter. I got the old fitting off with some effort but the inlet fitting o-rings were shot and I ended up with one hell of a fuel spray.

Has anyone used the Doorman kit that is supposed to replace these?

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-deliv...or-800-054/238623_116457_0?searchText=800-054

I saw a YouTube video and the guy on there used one but said that the barb would not fit into his flexible hose section and he had to cut the hard line and use rubber fuel line to make the connection. I was wondering if anyone here had used them and if they had different luck with the barb fitting?

Here is a link to the Video, but I warn you that the language he used was exactly the same words that this old Retired Navy Senior Chief would have used.



Thanks in advance

I thought I read in one of your adventure posts on these two repairs that you’re in Chicagoland.
I am a mechanic in the NW suburbs. I routinely do rusted fuel and brake lines on all makes of trucks.
I used to use the Dorman femal adapter hose ends and high pressure rubber hose with the high pressure clamps (materials were a bit pricey at the stores).
I’ve since moved the the Dorman master kit for nylon fuel line which includes a tool that looks like a caulk gun to install the ends on nylon tube without heat. I’ve tried heat but didn’t like it and was concerned that it may weaken the tube.
The tools could be made better but with 38yrs doing this stuff I’ve learned how to make stuff work.
SUR&R sells many types of line adapters available through Amazon and Rock auto.
I’ve found very creative ways to economically repair rusty lines on plow trucks. I stock and restock most all the ends and hose needed, even recently bought their kit for the larger 12mm tubing for the Duramax diesels (they rust too).
Wish I saw this post earlier as I’d have given you some more coaching on the fuel ends you may need.
Sounds like you had success on the caliper bolt.
Feel free to text 815-482-0967 if you’re in need of coaching.
I too am in my late 50’s and have been doing this as a career since a teenager.
Still, there are the few that throw me once in a while. 😁
 



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sehaare

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I thought I read in one of your adventure posts on these two repairs that you’re in Chicagoland.
I am a mechanic in the NW suburbs. I routinely do rusted fuel and brake lines on all makes of trucks.
I used to use the Dorman femal adapter hose ends and high pressure rubber hose with the high pressure clamps (materials were a bit pricey at the stores).
I’ve since moved the the Dorman master kit for nylon fuel line which includes a tool that looks like a caulk gun to install the ends on nylon tube without heat. I’ve tried heat but didn’t like it and was concerned that it may weaken the tube.
The tools could be made better but with 38yrs doing this stuff I’ve learned how to make stuff work.
SUR&R sells many types of line adapters available through Amazon and Rock auto.
I’ve found very creative ways to economically repair rusty lines on plow trucks. I stock and restock most all the ends and hose needed, even recently bought their kit for the larger 12mm tubing for the Duramax diesels (they rust too).
Wish I saw this post earlier as I’d have given you some more coaching on the fuel ends you may need.
Sounds like you had success on the caliper bolt.
Feel free to text 815-482-0967 if you’re in need of coaching.
I too am in my late 50’s and have been doing this as a career since a teenager.
Still, there are the few that throw me once in a while. 😁
great post.

I wish you had seen this sooner I'm in Palatine and would have just paid you to do it. whne you are doing one repair and it goes south its frustrating, but I usually work my way through it. But when both of these "simple maintenance items" went south at the same time and my daughter needed it for a daily driver, I got to the point that I didn't want to cut the flexible part of the fuel line and possibly make it worse for the shop that I had it towed to.

Plus, I had already taken two gasoline baths while laying on the floor under the filter and just wasn't looking forward to another episode of the Ford Fuel torture where it slowly drips gas on you while you are forced to lay under it.

And as a bonus I fighting alternator problem on an 81 VW rabbit convertible. I ordered both a voltage regulator and another alternator just in case. The drawing for the two wire VR show the wires reversed from the way the old VR was. The new alternator had a longer pulley extension that the old alternator even though they were the exact same part number. So it had been a rough week.
 






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