ARP head studs and head gaskets | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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ARP head studs and head gaskets

Engine

Its pretty bad that the inside of my engine looks better than the outside. lol.
Damn rusty thing.
I got the heads off tonight, going to clean them up tomorrow.
Pictures...
1. Tool for follower removal
2. Tools for holding sprockets and getting to rear bolt on D/S
3. Chains zip tied to guides
4. The head bolt holes. they are blind holes, they do not go into the coolant passages.
 

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original cassettes

The cassettes appear to be the original ones and are still in good condition. That's surprising considering their age and numerous WOT/high rev encounters. I wonder if the leaves in the primary chain tensioner are still good. Did you consider upgrading the primary chain tensioner?

Be careful with the camshaft oiler tubes. Their mounting tabs break easily.
 






I just broke the D/S rear timing chain guide.
Milk crate slipped out from under me while I was trying to put the head on carefully. lol.
Engine has to come out now to replace it.
 












Oh boy, I can't imagine you were that calm just after the accident happened.
Ouch. On the up side, the exhaust is off already.

Hopefully the rad, motor mounts, and trans bolts are an easy task. I feel like swearing for you.
 












I was like oh no it didn't...... then oh ****.
Time to take a break, I had to go get gas in my ranger anyway.
I swore at a few people that were driving slow although they did not hear me because my windows were up.
I am just glad that my two main races are done with for the year. I would really like to get it done before Black Friday, Atco Raceway is having all day racing again this year. I plan to break my record of 13.34 if I can get it back together by then. I have a 3 day weekend next weekend too.
 






I'm sure it would be no issue having it done quickly, except there's only so many hours in a day. Work, home life, sleep, and then truck repairs it can get 'not fun' in a hurry.
 






stuff

Some stuff for cleaning aluminum heads.
Plastic scraper called safe scraper by permatex.
Some gasket dissolver
Head half coated.

Stuff worked pretty good, dissolved what was left of the gasket that was stuck to the heads. Plastic scraper worked well also.
 

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Explorer

I'm sure it would be no issue having it done quickly, except there's only so many hours in a day. Work, home life, sleep, and then truck repairs it can get 'not fun' in a hurry.

I have no life. lol. Always in my garage on the weekends. I am not complaining I like it that way. I just hope none of my other trucks break down until after I finish this one. My luck goes that way sometimes, three vehicles and they all act up at the same time. lol.
 












the good thing is your haft way to getting pulled now anyway, and pulling them isnt to bad to do. for some reason however i have always found a SOHC is more of a pita to pull then a OHV. dont know why, but..... so now that it will be coming out, have any more plans for it, or is that going to be top secret.
and also while its out, i would yank that sound deadner off the firewall. it might also save you 5 or 10 pounds.
im also coming after your 13.3 time :D. but then again, you still win giving up 2 cylinders and all...
 






No plans with this engine except get it back together. This engine block is rusty and ugly. Not even worth paint. lol.
I don't want to tie up my garage since cold weather is on its way.

That sound deadener may also have something to do with blocking heat from the passenger compartment so it stays. I have noticed a lot of heat at the floor boards coming from the shorty headers after making a 1/4 mile run. I should wrap them while they are off.
 






Man I feel your pain!
 






Engine out

Its out.
I should have the part Thursday, 3 day weekend too so I hope to get it back in by next Sunday.
 

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Chain Guide

Here is the flimsy chain guide that so easily breaks and the new one that doesn't look any stronger.
 

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Studs

There is one head bolt hole that goes through the block into an oil passage. The rest are "blind holes". I used ARP sealant on all the studs anyway to aid in removal if I ever have to pull them out. I had picked up some thread sealant made by Permatex but found the ARP sealant had a higher temperature rating so I used it instead.
 

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Studs in block

Two of the bigger studs on each side sit higher than the rest. I believe they are the ones where the dowels are. You can not really tell in these pictures but it was something I thought was worth mentioning.

Of course the two little studs on each side sit lower than all the others as well, that you can see in these pictures.
 

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Engine

It is ready to go back in, should have that done today if all goes well. Now putting all the other parts back on, that is going to take some time. I am going to redo the wiring harness while I am at it.

Notice the tire step on the drivers side all folded up nicely. Wish I was using that on the passenger side the other day. lol.
 

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Note

Just a note on the 2nd gen explorer head stud installation,
If installing the heads studs with the engine still in the engine compartment, with the head off you can install the two little head studs on the passenger side then the head, then the rest of the studs would have to be installed through the head into the block or you would have to remove the evaporator case. The reason why is that the evaporator case is so close to the engine on the passenger side the head would not come off or go over the studs unless you remove the evaporator case.
The drivers side seemed to have plenty of room but I did not test fit it since I had to pull the engine anyway.
I was also concerned that it would be hard to torque the headstud nuts with the engine on the engine stand (with wheels on it). That was not the case. I just put my foot against the wheels on the engine stand and torqued away.
 

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