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ATF Change??

llknowlesll

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May 17, 2004
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City, State
Front Royal, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Explorer Sport
I have heard that you can drain the fluid in the trans and just add more or you can change the fluid in the cooler too. I have heard people say they put one end of the cooler hose in a bottle of fluid and run it till clean fluid comes out the other (Something like that). I was wondering how this is exactly done. I am changing over to Amsoil Synthetic ATF and what to get it all out. Is there a plug on the oil cooler that you can jus drain it out with? Do you drop the transmssion pan? How hard is this and what is involved? Is Amsoil the best synthetic ATF to use? Need some help.

Thanks,
llknowlesll

4.0L SOHC
 



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I recommend a complete flush.

By all means go synthetic. Amsoil is what I use and feel that it is among the best.

You might want to consider adding an external tranny filter too.

Good luck.
 






aldive said:
I recommend a complete flush.

By all means go synthetic. Amsoil is what I use and feel that it is among the best.

You might want to consider adding an external tranny filter too.

Good luck.


How much more is Amsoil than regular ATF? My brand new tranny goes in tomorrow and I might as well start off right. hehe look at me worrying about an extra 40 bux or so after blowing 2700 on a transmission :D
 






I have not a clue what regular ATF cost, sorry, I have never used it, nor will I ever use it.

Take a look at the following for Amsoil:
Dead Link Removed
 






llknowlesll said:
I have heard that you can drain the fluid in the trans and just add more or you can change the fluid in the cooler too. I have heard people say they put one end of the cooler hose in a bottle of fluid and run it till clean fluid comes out the other (Something like that). I was wondering how this is exactly done. I am changing over to Amsoil Synthetic ATF and what to get it all out. Is there a plug on the oil cooler that you can jus drain it out with? Do you drop the transmssion pan? How hard is this and what is involved? Is Amsoil the best synthetic ATF to use? Need some help.

Thanks,
llknowlesll

4.0L SOHC

I bought 13 quarts of synthetic ATF at Autozone for about $70, so you can calculate what it costs. It was and I'm using Mobil 1 ATF, which would proobably be the best alternative to amsoil if you can't wait for it or get it locally.
 






BTW Aldive did a very nice write up on doing a " flush and fill " on the tranny.
Follow his write up word for word and you will be golden
 






Aldive,

how often do you change your synthetic ATF? I just changed my 2003 EX to castrol full synthetic at about 40K miles. Then I read on here some where that the newer ones have synthetic already, yet the manual still says to change at something like 30K. I need to get at least 200K Miles out of this car, so i'm changing everything to Synthetic as soon as it needs changing.

Texans Fan
 






Texan said:
Aldive,

how often do you change your synthetic ATF? I just changed my 2003 EX to castrol full synthetic at about 40K miles. Then I read on here some where that the newer ones have synthetic already, yet the manual still says to change at something like 30K. I need to get at least 200K Miles out of this car, so i'm changing everything to Synthetic as soon as it needs changing.

Texans Fan

I change at about 40k intervals.

No Explorer tranny comes with synthetic ATF.
 






Wonder why they got rid of the dip stick on the newer Explorers. Mine has not tranny dip stick :confused:

I had read on another post on this board that it was because Ford did not want the tranny oil changed for something like 125K miles. I find that hard to believe though.
 






Texan said:
Wonder why they got rid of the dip stick on the newer Explorers. Mine has not tranny dip stick :confused:

I had read on another post on this board that it was because Ford did not want the tranny oil changed for something like 125K miles. I find that hard to believe though.

Ford believes (or wants you to believe) that it will last that long. I guess there's some logic in it, but it's true that other transmissions WITH oil changes can go a lot longer than 125k. There has to be a way around that though, because what if the truck gets in a flood or something?
 






no way in hell would you get me to replace standard ATF in a vehicle with more than 50k miles with synthetic ATF. Thats just asking for clutch slippage.

Think about it.. The internal clutches were made to have friction and how they are put together is based on how slippery regular ATF is and how it will lubricate and protect the parts. When you introduce a much more slippery synthetic atf, you also introduce the very real possibility that your clutches will start slipping and wearing prematurely.
 






slag said:
no way in hell would you get me to replace standard ATF in a vehicle with more than 50k miles with synthetic ATF. Thats just asking for clutch slippage.

Thats just your opinion, and indeed you are entitled to it, but where are the facts to support it?
 






Slag, I respectfuly disagree with your assesment of tranny fluid changes. I just replaced fluid with Amsoil at 186K. (96 XLT, 4.0) The other drop pan changes were at 50, 90 and 140K. The fluid got real dark and funky smelling by the 186 change. The only problem was a small delay going into reverse when cold. I also added the Perma-Cool filter to the cooler lines. What a difference, it hasn't shifted this good for years, doesn't slip and feels real SOLID when shifting. I have 196 on it now, changed the filter once and the fluid is as good looking as the day I put it in.

WDP
 






Isn't Mercon V a syn blend? I run RP in mine, i think all syns are about the same but I like the color of RP, Has got to be better:)
 






aldive said:
Thats just your opinion, and indeed you are entitled to it, but where are the facts to support it?

Send me $300 for 24 quarts of Fluid, and to have a shop flush it and I'll be the test dummy. Also some $$ if the tranny fails. I just don't see spending all of that money for somethign you are going to drain out.
 






If you really want that 5R55E to last, better drop the pan and tighten the valve body bolts. For some reason, about four of them get very loose. They need just a light twist.
 






Opera House said:
If you really want that 5R55E to last, better drop the pan and tighten the valve body bolts. For some reason, about four of them get very loose. They need just a light twist.

How much is a light twist (ft-lbs?)?
 






You shouldn't have to tighten anything on the valve body but I guess you wouldn't be making that up either. If that is the case then you should probably use some red thread lock to prevent it in the future. There should already be some dry threadlock on them bolts from the factory.
 






This problem didn't reall y show up till 97 when the passages got tighter due to added solenoids and some distances between bolts increased. I have a spare 97 tranny w/52k that has a blown out gasket as a result of loose bolts. Almost everyone that has checked has found a couple loose. Reverse/low servo cover too. DO NOT PUT ANY LOCKTITE ON THE BOLTS. They tighten to about 90 IN-LB which is just under 8 ft-lb. Below what most torque wrenches can read. Short of the valve body gaskets blowing out and some early EPC problems, this is a fairly reliable transmission. Gat a cast pan with 2 extra quarts capacity if you really care from www.yourcovers.com anyone know it this also fits the SOHC?
 



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