ATF change

[jtre]

I was thinking about doing a transmission fluid change. First off it says to use mercon. is that the same as

this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...utomatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Gallon/15125768

also, i have been told I need to drain the torque converter too. Is that true? or can I just drain the pan?

 

[koda2000]

Current Ford AFT spec is to use Mercon V. You don't say what engine/transmission you have. My 5.0L V8's have a drain for the torque converter, my V6's do not.

 

[jtre]

Current Ford AFT spec is to use Mercon V. You don't say what engine/transmission you have. My 5.0L V8's have a drain for the torque converter, my V6's do not.

its a 97 mountaineer with a 5.0L V8 4R70W AODE transmisson.

 

[koda2000]

its a 97 mountaineer with a 5.0L V8 4R70W AODE transmisson.

Then you can drain the torque converter as well as the transmission. There is a black rubber plug on the button center of the bell housing (assuming the plug hasn't fallen out. It it has there will be a hole). The torque converter has a drain plug that you'll need to get aligned with this hole in order to drain the converter. You can do this by having someone bump the starter while you look for the drain plug, or you can turn the engine over by the crankshaft bolt. I understand it take quite a long while for the converter to drain. Personally I would just do a pan drop and filter change. Some (myself included) believe that changing all the fluid in an old, high mileage transmission can invite problems. The theory being that as the clutches inside the transmission wear (which is inevitable) the clutch material ends up suspended in the fluid. If you change or flush all the old fluid out your clutches may begin to slip because there is less friction material for the clutches to work with. The choice is yours. Believe what you want.

 

[jtre]

Then you can drain the torque converter as well as the transmission. There is a black rubber plug on the button center of the bell housing (assuming the plug hasn't fallen out. It it has there will be a hole). The torque converter has a drain plug that you'll need to get aligned with this hole in order to drain the converter. You can do this by having someone bump the starter while you look for the drain plug, or you can turn the engine over by the crankshaft bolt. I understand it take quite a long while for the converter to drain. Personally I would just do a pan drop and filter change. Some (myself included) believe that changing all the fluid in an old, high mileage transmission can invite problems. The theory being that as the clutches inside the transmission wear (which is inevitable) the clutch material ends up suspended in the fluid. If you change or flush all the old fluid out your clutches may begin to slip because there is less friction material for the clutches to work with. The choice is yours. Believe what you want.

Ive heard that was an issue with the flushes and not a regular pan drop kind of change.

 

[SWIGIN]

Ive heard that was an issue with the flushes and not a regular pan drop kind of change.

What he is saying is true but if the tiny amount of friction material floating in the small amount of fluid that's in the clutch hub at any one moment is enough to make your tranny work then IMO it will be fine without the dirt and debris.

Basically if new fluid makes your tranny slip then it was going to slip in a week or so anyway.

Change your fluid, drain your converter and refill with Merc V and have peace of mind that your tranny is ready to go for awhile.

 

[jtre]

here are pics of the fluid if that helps

 

[SWIGIN]

Dump it.

 

[koda2000]

It's not bright pink anymore, but I've seen much worse. The stuff I drained out of my '01 ST was almost black (and the transmission was still working perfectly). I'd drop the pan and do a filter change and refill. Torque converter fluid drain optional.