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siguaw

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tires are great. clearance is definitely the issue. whats this I read about f-150 coil spacers?
 



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jd4242

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tires are great. clearance is definitely the issue. whats this I read about f-150 coil spacers?

Yea was gonna say looks like you hit and drag or tires just arnt grippn..what lift if any do you have now?? F150 seats give you about 1.5-2" but cant be used if you have lift springs;)
 






siguaw

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I made a homemade 3/4" coil spacer and extended the rear shackles 1.5" but I did this when I was running 31's.

My question would be does this F-150 coil job lift the differential much? or is that just front tire size. My experience "comes from straight axle trucks" that lift do not raise your diffs tires do.
 






jd4242

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I made a homemade 3/4" coil spacer and extended the rear shackles 1.5" but I did this when I was running 31's.

My question would be does this F-150 coil job lift the differential much? or is that just front tire size. My experience "comes from straight axle trucks" that lift do not raise your diffs tires do.

Just tires do..no lift will lift the diff only frame or in case of body lift, obviously just lifts body..the ttb has sooo much more that drags than a regular solid axle or newer independent

I take it its the front diff thats really hitting and slowing you down?
 






Albino 94LTD

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How about a 4" lift kit?

Everything you need except the brake lines

PM me if interested
 






4x4junkie

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I made a homemade 3/4" coil spacer and extended the rear shackles 1.5" but I did this when I was running 31's.

My question would be does this F-150 coil job lift the differential much? or is that just front tire size. My experience "comes from straight axle trucks" that lift do not raise your diffs tires do.

On a TTB the diff is lifted with taller springs/spacers (by about half-inch for each inch of lift, due to the lever action of the beams). It's actually very possible to get the diff up higher than the diff on a comparable-size straight axle.

The way I'd do it (if diff clearance is your priority) is put in the largest offset camber bushings you can find and then start adding washers (spacers) under the coil springs until the wheels sit straight.
 






siguaw

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Maniak

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The way I'd do it (if diff clearance is your priority) is put in the largest offset camber bushings you can find and then start adding washers (spacers) under the coil springs until the wheels sit straight.

A cut/turned beam will also give you the angle which in effect raises the diff compared to using drop brackets and keeps it alignable.

Most cut/turned beams you can buy are cut/turned for 5"+ of lift though..

Here are a couple shots to show what 4x4junkie is talking about..

See how the beam is angled which makes the Diff higher..
8120074973_ce4454096d_z.jpg
Custom Tube bumper with d-ring and lights 1 by maniak_az, on Flickr

Here is a beam using drop brackets to keep the factory angle..
4784360313_484f1211db_z.jpg
Front-suspension-shots 002 by maniak_az, on Flickr

~Mark
 






4x4junkie

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Yup, C&T beams takes the process just that much further.

Sticking camber bushings and spacers in there alone still can be good for at least a 1" improvement, often 1¼-1½", given how low I see some stock setups sitting. If the truck ends up sitting nose-high, then a set of (longer) extended shackles in the rear should re-level it.

Agreed, looking at the video you posted it does look like you're pushing a wall of mud with the front diff.
 






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