Auto hubs

[F14CRAZY]

Howdy. I want to service my automatic 4x4 hubs. I have read plenty of times to soak them in automatic transmission fluid but I don't quite get it. Wish I had pics. The "hub" exactly is the cast aluminum (?) piece with the 4x4 sticker on it, right? What do I have to do to the rest of the spindle assemby? I changed my tire the other day and I noticed that everything is greasy inside, and what from others have said, that's NOT a good thing. I know the roller bearing needs grease though. How do I clean out/repack and tighten the bearing(s)? Thank you.

 

[Blee1099]

Ditch those auto-hubs and get a set of manual hubs.. The auto hubs are known for failing when you least expect it.

 

[Rhett]

The hub doesn't need all that much grease in it, I have found that a lot of mechanics overdo it and really pack the grease in there. Over time that can collect more crud and ***t that can eventually grenade the hub or at least cause it to stick and not disengage.

If you are going to repack the bearings and retorque everything (that's a good idea) you can look on this site for links to complete directions. A Haynes manual is also pretty good (with pictures). In short you'll want
1. snap ring pliers (not absolutely necessary but nice)
2. 2 3/8" hex socket (for the autohub)
3. a torque wrench, that can read in-lbs
4. gray NLGI No. 2 grease
5. a magnet to pull out the hub key
6. cheap work gloves so you wont get so dirty
7. a little ATF to soak the hubs in

 

[F14CRAZY]

Thank you Rhett Browning. I will soon get a Haynes manual then. I can borrow the tools you mentioned from neighbors.

When I soak the hubs (I heard to do it for about 2 hours) how much ATF or grease should be in them when I put them back on?

I don't want manual hubs. I want to know how to keep the hubs I have in good condition. I apologize for asking something that has been asked before, but I never understood how to do it from the directions I've found at this site.

This is a project that I think I can tackle myself with good directions. I don't want to spend more money on manual hubs if I don't have to yet. I know the advantages, but for what I do, the automatic hubs work fine. I don't like the idea of going outside to engage them. Yes I know you can leave them engaged and just disengage the transfer case for short term periods.

 

[jgilbs]

so the inside of the hub is NOT supposed to have grease in it? Cuz mine was FILLED with it!

 

[Fhantazm]

so the inside of the hub is NOT supposed to have grease in it? Cuz mine was FILLED with it!

Yes, there is supposed to be a reasonable amount of grease in there, just not all caked up and spilling out. This doesnt hurt at first, but over time it can collect crap and cause the hub to prematurely evacuate.

 

[Rhett]

When I soak the hubs (I heard to do it for about 2 hours) how much ATF or grease should be in them when I put them back on?

This is a project that I think I can tackle myself with good directions.

Yes, you can do this pretty easily with good directions.
Get new grease seals ($8) even if you keep the existing bearings.

After soaking the hub with ATF, pour all that ATF out. There should still be a little gray grease in there. That's all it needs in the hub itself. Just a light coating. The ATF soak is done to remove dirt, and excess old grease...
Gray grease from the spindle splines will migrate into the hub over time and so the hub itself doesn't need much.

For removing the actual bearings, removing snap ring around the spindle shaft is the first step. The snap ring is a little metal ring that fits around the spindle shaft. If you're good you can remove it with a flathead screwdriver and patience. I like to use snap ring pliers to loosen it with one hand, and with my other hand I use the flathead screwdriver to get underneath the snap ring and pry it off. Be warned, it will pop off suddenly so watch your eyes and don't let it fly across the garage where you can't find it.

The 2 3/8" rounded hex socket is hard to find. But you will need it to remove the bearings with auto hubs. I found it at a NAPA store. It's called, a "wheel bearing adjusting hex socket". Mine is 1/2" drive so keep that in mind and make sure you have the right breaker bar/torque wrench or adapters.

Before putting it all together I always re-lube (with gray moly grease) the outside of auto hub adjusting nut and any other parts of the spindle where there is or may be metal-to-metal...or plastic to metal in the case of the cam and thrust washers..

 

[jgilbs]

i got the red #2 grease. will this work properly to repack my bearings? also, do i need a grease gun? or can i do it by hand?

 

[sonik]

i got the red #2 grease. will this work properly to repack my bearings? also, do i need a grease gun? or can i do it by hand?

If the packaging says its for wheel bearings, go for it. I got a tub of Valvoline multi purpose grease made for Ford vehicles at Napa. There was a different product for GM applications. You don't want a grease gun, you can use your hand or get a hand bearing packer, like this or this. You shouldn't need the special hex socket to get the hub off since it should be only torqued to 16 lb-in, but it's better to have it so you can put it back on correctly.